440 build-up ?

[6t5mopar]

Well, Here I go. I hit it good last night, my brother gave me a complete 440.
I have a 413 in my coronet now,and I want to go faster within a few years(I put the few years in for the sake of my wife reading this). So, I need to slowly build me a 440.It will be going in to a 1965 coronet 727 ,3.55 gears, me and the car will tip the scales at 3500lbs.I want a fast street car.NOTHING radical,pump gas,bumpy cam,
etc.....The 440 is a 1972 stamping , I think it has 452 heads,I assume it has a cast crank,stock rods. NO PISTONS,NO CAM .all the stuff I need to replace.
I will be doing this gradually (as I get funds) Where to start?
I have the block,crank and heads on the stand now what do I do?,as in machining.
Can I use the stock rods?
What can I do Myself to these parts ?
.030 over or more?
I hope I don't sound silly asking these questions , but this is my first build.
I'm not a cheap person so no corners cut.
If someone can take the time to break this building process down for me I would
be VERY grateful.
I know I left tons of things out ,so please let me know what YOU need to know .
Thanks for everyone's time.
What comes around goes around......................Todd

[rumblefish360]

6t5mopar;

The process is easy. Its called take your time, read, ask questions and put ALL of your parts in a bag to protect them. As well as 1 of the most imprtent things. Make a plan and stick to it!!! Keep parts DRY!!
From doing engines before, in/on the home front, what you need to do is (after you have your plan on paper) collect the engine parts. Put them on a shelf, out of site and mind. (So you don't drive yourself nuts looking at them)
Cross off 1 part at a time as you get them.

Do your machine work to the block last. When its done, button it up with your NEW parts. When you do that, you'll be looking at an engine that looks good and is ready to go.
The last few copys of Mopar muscule has a 440 build up useing easy to get parts that aren't wild. MoPar Performance has some other guide lines that are very good to.
You can keep the stock bore if the bore is good to start with. The machine shop will let you know. The .030 overbore only provides a few cubes. Its not worth the effort to go there if its not needed. The power output between a stock bore and an extra .030 is allmost nothing in a street, street/strip engine.
As far as pistons go, hyperutecic units are very good, cheap and on a self waiting for you. Keep compression with the iron heads no higher than 9.5-1. Below 9.0-1 is not wanted. In this area of compression, you'll use 93 octane.
The stock rods should be checked, resized, debured, and with new bolts to hold them together. The crank should be inspected and machined if needed.
Have the whole bottom end balanced as a whole unit.
The heads you have, the stock 452's, can be cleaned up and given a mild port job. This will give some REAL good power. Even with a mild cam.