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#1
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Ok, 400 9:1 com. edlebrock 750, ported heads, headers, 2 1/2 exhaust, many other mods, its about a 400 horse engine in my 73 sattellite.
The ignition is the msd 6al m.p. distributor, blaster 2 coil, new cap and rotor, accell plugs and wires gapped .055. A Anyway, The car was running great for about 3 weeks after I fine tuned it after the engine was first built and fired. Then about a week ago it would not fire, the engine would turn over but not fire. I went got some starting fluid sprayed it in there, and the car hesitated then started, great i thought, went drove it around the block, runnin fine Then came home, turned it off, 10 seconds later it would not fire. WHAT GIVES???? Coil is good, the timing hasn't changed, not using vac advance right now, could it be the ballast resistor and how do i check?? HELP!!! |
#2
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If you used starting fluid, it might be a fuel pump going bad. Try a fuel pressure gauge. It might not pump enough at idle to fill the carb up. Just had to replace the fuel pump my wife's 383. At idle fuel pump flucuated around 1 psi. Above about 2000 rpm, it went up to 4. Also if you only have trouble starting when its hot, it might be vapor locking. An electric fuel pump will help to eliminate this. First see what the fuel pressure is. To check the ballast resistor: Get an ohmeter. I think it should be .5 ohm. Or connect a test light in series with the ballast resistor to the battery. It should light, probably dim but should still light. Good Luck
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#3
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My guess is that the spark plugs are fouled. The heat range may be too cold, or the fuel mixture too rich.
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#4
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Has a new fuel pump, regulator and gauge all holley, manual pump though, Have it set at 5.5 psi, seems fine but I'll check it at idle, i have a voltohm meter but should I check them both for .5 ohm, ?? Thanks
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#5
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Ok this might help, now when i try to start it it won't start while cranking but if i turn it over then quickly move the key to the run position it will fire and start running, ???
Also I checked the ballast resistor, one is 5.5 and one is 1.5 ohms is this correct?? Thanks |
#6
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Chris, try changing the starter solenoid on firewall. I had one go bad and create the same problem that you are having.
Good luck ------------------ Cameron's Racing Division of GOT NUTZ? MotorSportz 66 Belv 2 440 auto 10.76 @ 125 69 Road Runner 426 wedge auto 9.74 @ 138 99 Dakota Pro Stock type truck (under construction) 79 Lil Red Express Truck 96 2500 Ram 5.9 99 Durango 5.9 |
#7
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Chris
You probably have a bad wire From the start circuit to the coil. Get a wiring handbook and trace your wires and rplace that one. Or better yet just get a new harness those old ones are due for a change arent they? Christian ------------------ 68 'Cuda 383 Formula S recreation Working on adding EFI 69 'Cuda Race Parts Car 76 Duster 273 recent transplant 95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96 84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360 |
#8
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oK, Stan Im assuming you mean starter relay, and christian, Which would be the start circut? this is a msd remeber Thanks !
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#9
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You have two sets of wires coming from your ignition. One is for the run and one is for start. I couldnt tell you haw to tell the difference at this point but get you a wiring manual or diagram and look to see which wires go to the start cycle and which go to the run cycle.
Christian |
#10
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I fixed the problem, I put an alarm in a year or two ago and when I put the starter kill relay in I used the ignition start wire instead of the run wire from the ignition switch, then last week the car was out of juice so I thought the battery was being drained, i unplugged the relay cause the alarm i thought was the cause of the drain, then like christian said i was looking at a wiring diagram and remeberd about the relay, went under the dash, plugged it back in , and the car fired right up! Thanks for the help.
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