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#1
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ok the top right water pump bolt that goes through the timing cover and threads into the block is acting really weird. This one is important because it is also the adjuster and hold down for the power steering pump. You put the bolt in the hole and turn it as if to tighten it, then it goes in about 2 or 3 turns and then loosen's up again. I know it's stripped but here is the weird part, the end of the bolt gets tapered down to a point! what is causing this? how can i fix this? this is the most important bolt and it is stripped. do they make a tap this long so i don't have to remove my timing cover and basically tear apart my fresh motor just to re-thread a bolt? help me please!!!!!
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#2
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I would mic the depth for sure and see if you have the right length bolt. You may be able to use a heli coil as a temporary fix but I would probally go ahead and drill and tap it.
Bill |
#3
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I had this problem with the power steeringing on my s/b. The length bolt could be of issue like Road Runner had said. I wraped the bolt end with teflon tape real think. Then tightened it up. Just enuff so it did not leak. The tension on the belt still wasn't enuff though. For that the piviot point on the bracket ass. was tightened real hard instead.
Hope this helps you out. |
#4
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yea i tightened the pivot point but it still loosenes up. i wrap the end with teflon tape? how do i heli coil it ?
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#5
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Heli coils are strong, as I was told. You can do this yourself, again, so i was told. My local machine shop did my heads for me. If its in the block, the machine shop will tell you to bring them the block over. So long as its not in the car.
Kits come with instuctions. Check them out. Good luck |
#6
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This is what I would do. I would first stick something thin into the hole to find out how deep it is, then compare this to the thickness of the housing and bracket and the new bolt to be sure all you have is messed up threads and not a obstruction in the hole. like a broken piece of bolt.If the hole depth is OK take a tap and get some one to weld a bolt on it to make it longer then retap the hole. good luck
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#7
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Loctite has a product out that is a thread rebuilder.We use it sometimes at work to fix mildly damaged threads in holes.If your not in a hurry I'll get you a part # and post it Mon. afternoon.
The tapering on the end means that it is bottoming in the tap hole if it was broken bolt the end would just be flat and srewed up |
#8
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When you remove the bolt is there water? If no water, then sound as if a previous bolt broken off. This will require removing the timing cover to access. Hope Not!
RamHead |
#9
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Thread rebuilder
The Loctite thread rebuilder is called:
Form-A-Thread 30 Repair kit.It has a 2 part adhesive and a release agent in the kit. Good stuff,better than helicoil,as it don't require any special drills or taps.It is strong too. You should be able to get it any decent hardware if not contact Loctite at www.loctite.com . Good luck. |
#10
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If it is any help to you I use a 6 inch long bolt in that hole. I would chechto see how deep the hole is to see if there is a broken bolt in there. A coat hanger should go at least 7 inches in. There are taps that are meant for threading deep hole. The longest 5/16" I have used was 6 inches long. Welding a tap onto some other round stock is a little scary. You should have a square or at least 2 flats to braze the tap onto. If now it will break off. If you find that the coat hanger goes deep into the block you can drill out the damaged threads with a clearance drill size little by little. Set a stop on the drill bit and go only 1/8" at a time and clean out the hole with a telescoping magnet. Try the bolt each time so you do not clearance drill too deep. Good luck.
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