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  #1  
Old 05-14-2001, 09:15 AM
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I took my 94 CTD Ram auto, 3.54 geared, Super Bee, and car trailer for it's first tow, and "test" tow yesterday to see how the setup was.

I had very little sway in the trailer, which is good, but I wasn't real impressed with the pulling power on hills.

Maybe I'm expecting too much, but it didn't seem to have a lot of power.

It didn't like having the pedal on the floor. When I would let up, it would shift and actually feel like it pulled better.

It definitely didn't like RPM's at all. I think about 2,200 and it seemed like it was falling on it's face.

Is there anything easy to check to see if it is working as it should? I'm going to get the valves adjusted in a couple of weeks since I don't know when they were done last.
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Old 05-14-2001, 04:11 PM
BIG RED MACHINE BIG RED MACHINE is offline
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A few things to check here,,Check the throttle cable for fraying(as they wore they'd wear and stretch),have the overflow valve checked or replaced,replace the fuel return line(cracks and allows air into fuel system) and check the wastegate actuator to see if its bleeding off improperly(loosing boost to soon),,Have valves adjusted for your baseline and service it(Use Fleetguard's filters,oil and fuel much better than Mopars),,Also check all intercooler hoses for leaks and tightness,,See where this gets you and let me know.....
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Old 05-14-2001, 10:07 PM
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BRM,

What do you think that guy in Cheswick would charge to go over the truck?

It might be worthwhile for the first time to get a baseline.

I have changed the oil and used a fleetguard filter. I also have a fleetguard fuel filter that still needs installed.
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Old 05-15-2001, 01:06 AM
my6eatsV8's my6eatsV8's is offline
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first off is it stock? if it is its only got 160hp.
You can do things to help this, like wire the wastegate shut, and take the afc housing off and slide the stock camplate all the way forward, this will give you about 50 more hp. If you slide the afc housing forward, the more you do this the more bottom end you will have, to a degree then it will smoke but is easily adjustable, forward or back. Also if you turn the gov springs ONE click down(tighter) you get a couple of houndred more rpms, be sure to only do one click, if you don't you loose bottom end and the idle will raise, to a point you can lower it, then you'll not be able to get it down. The best thing to do would be to put a governor kit in along with 215 injectors. This would give you an additional 30 or so hp. Good luck.
Oh ya, your mileage will probably improve being that is the most common misconseption about giving the power your motor disearves. I still average 18mpg with over 500hp constantly.
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Old 05-15-2001, 01:52 AM
BIG RED MACHINE BIG RED MACHINE is offline
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Man do you save my fingers at times My6,,Pro not sure what he'd charge,but in our area he's one of the best,,If you do not mind a ride into the Buckeye call Dave and Loretta Mitchell at Enterprise Engine,,They also are very good and have some of the nastiest rides out our way,,Sorry I've been lacking in my mail time had a death in the family and resulting paperwork is a major pain,,My 6's adjustments are dead on and easy for you to do,only wish SOMEBODY would have let me in on the secret before(THANKS ADAM),,IF every thing at my house come to order,going to dyno next weekend with new setup and try new HX-40 out,,Keep digging we will all get you there.........
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Old 05-15-2001, 06:54 AM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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prostock, I had a similar lack of power problem with my 95 after much B.S. from the service dept. at the dealers, I finally figured out it was the actuator on the wastegate, it was leaking out all the air pressure that was suppose to be operating it which in turn cut the fuel back as a safety precaution to keep from building up to much boost. If you look back at my post (could this be my problem part 2) TheRamMan gives a good explanation of how it works, and this is a pretty easy thing to check, if you apply around 18psi to the actuator it should move and should not leak air. It took me 2 dealers and $340.00 to figure out it was the actuator that I ended up replacing myself for $60.00.
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Old 05-15-2001, 07:39 AM
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I'll give the guy in Cheswick a call this morning. He's only about 5 miles from where I work.

Thanks for the responses. Depending on what he says to just check it out, I'll decide where to go from there.

I guess it's still stock. I just recently bought the truck.
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Old 05-15-2001, 07:48 AM
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Where on the turbo is the wastegate actuator?
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Old 05-15-2001, 09:36 AM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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looking down on the turbo the actuator is a round chamber around 2" or so and has a rod coming out of it that attaches to the wastegate on the exhaust side of the turbo, and also has an airline attached to the side (it looks like a brake chamber on a big truck with air brakes, actually it works the same way) you may have to access it from the bottom of the truck to see if it is working................
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Old 05-15-2001, 09:53 AM
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I saw on that other post that you clamped off the line that ran to it to check it. Can you just clamp it off with a pair of vice grips?
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Old 05-15-2001, 10:25 AM
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I have an appointment down in Cheswick this friday. Once they check it over I'll know I have a good baseline to work with.
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Old 05-15-2001, 11:46 AM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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I had already pulled my turbo off before I realized that the actuator was bad, so I did not try clamping it off, from what I have been told you can clamp it off, or take the line off and put something in it for a plug (you don't want it leaking any air) without the actuator hooked up and bleeding off pressure you will be making more boost so I would assume you should not drive more than neccessary, only to check to see if that is your problem..............this is a pretty simple way to check it and an inexpensive way too eliminate this as your problem..................
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Old 05-15-2001, 12:17 PM
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Big Red Machine recommended Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh, so I'm going to have them go over the truck this first time to get a good baseline.

They will adjust the valves, and go over and check for problems for less than $200, and I'll at least know it's done right.

Thanks again for all of the responses. I still have a lot to learn about diesels.
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