\6 to a 360 crate in a 64 Valiant...

[sputnikid]

After tossing around with the idea of souping up my slant to race stock mustangs I have decided against it due to the costs and resulting lack of driveability for the 1/4mi time I am looking to acheive (~13 sec). And since the car is already nice and light I figure that it is a perfect candidate.

Anyhow, I am considering getting a 360ci crate motor from MP (300 or 380 hp) for the Valiant. Has anyone done a similar swap? How did it go and how is the driveability of the engine? I will probably install a 727 street trans (manual valve body) and 3.23 or 3.55 gears in an 8 3/4 rear. There is no power steering, power brakes or A/C in the car. I know headers are the biggest headache but i dont mind running fenderwell headers or cast exaust manifolds.

The car isnt going to be a trailer queen and should be somewhat comfortable to cruise in.

Can anyone help me with my decision?

Jason

[rumblefish360]

Jason;

I fully support your going to the 360/380HP create engine in your car. There is a fella here that has done just what your planning. Not a create engine though it was a S/B engine in his Valiant. he has it for sale now I believe.
3.55's would be my min. ratio. Tires would have to be on the small side. Reason being is that the cam's duration is long and would choke with larger tires and 3.55's. 3.90's or 4.10 would really do the trick.
Most people here that have the 380hp create say the drivablity is good. Headers from TTI should solve the problem of hard fit. You should use the large tube header for max bennifit from the create eng.

[pishta]

Sputnikid, I have a '65 Valiant Barracuda with a 340 in it. It was a retro from a 273, but the K is no different for the 6 and 8 that year. Just ditch that big bracket that holds the slant 6 motor mounts. The V8 mounts mount right to the K. Get some V8 motor brackets, you need the 340/360 style if you dont want to modify the 273/318's (easy, but do you really want to save 40 bucks?) and you'll need to clearance the trans tunnel for the larger A727 trans. The A904 is a stock fit and requires alot less HP to get moving. With the car so light, an A727 is overkill in my opinion. You might have to dent the gas tank a hair where the ass of the 8 3/4 sits, it is really close. I run 3.91's on 14 inch tires. I would consider 3.55's first. You cant get much tire in the rear wells unless you get an offset rim, I would guess 225's. My 215's almost rub, but I run a 1/2 adapter for my 4.5 BC rims on a 4 BC axle. Youll also need a dropped...uh...brain fart...that bar that links the pitman to the idler arm. It was dropped stock with the 273 only. Hedman makes a 2" primary header for this app. plenty big for a 380/360. You may also need a 90 oil filter adapter or run a short filter if your headers are down there. That 360 comes with a front sump pan, right?

[pishta]

Oh yeah, I have some solid bracket/mounts for this app if you want them. Let me know. They are going in the trash 6/15.

[sputnikid]

Pishta. Thanks for the input. The bar you couldnt come up with is the centerlink. Are these specific to 1963-66 or are there other years that will fit?

I will be switching the axles in the 8 3/4 rear to big bolt by shortening and resplining some B body axles to get the large bolt pattern. I will also be relocating the springs to directly under the frame and the wheelwells with be widened about 2" to give me better tire clearance. In the front, discs will be installed for safety reasons (and to get the 4.5" bolt pattern). Superstock leaf springs (5 leaf) and KYB gas shocks should allow enough lift and clearance between the rearend and gas tank.

I have no intentions to run tires much bigger than 235/60R15's in the rear and 195's in the front. I really dont think the tire width will be a concern because I can currently spin my 205's with my slant 6 (1bbl). I will have a pair of DOT slicks for racing.

Are the TTI headers fenderwell headers? I know that spitfire headers will fit without having to cut anything.

Reworking the tranny hump will need to be done anyways because I will be converting from the pushbutton shifter to a floor shifter.

Anyhow... that is all for now.

Jason

[pishta]

The TTIs dont have an app for this on their web page, or not that I have seen. Spitfires are on the small side, but no cutting whatsoever! Hedman are fenderwells, not sure of TTI's. Of course there are HOOKER SC's that I run, fenderwells. The centerlink is a 64-66 piece I believe, there are plenty out there. the trans hump took my Hurst Pro Matic 2 with no problem, it is all above the tunnel with only a cable running down to the trans. You need some sort of kickdown...scratch that, you are running a manual valve body. One less headache!

[rumblefish360]

The create engine has a center oil pan. Not front or rear hung oil pan.

[pishta]

I think the center sump pan will work. Im thinking forward sump like a '64 273, I guess you could call it a center sump. On a FERD Cleveland, their front sump is all the way forward, straight down. So a center sump is OK on this, right? Im calling a center sump a front sump, my bust...