MP Race Distributor(P4120701)

[wedgehead]

I'm seeking info on the MP distributors for race purposes. I have owned the HP street version and now I am currently racing the race dist. For some reason I think that my dist. is not set up properly. The motor runs O.K. but I don't get the crispness on revs that I think I should have. All other systems work flawlessly. The carb is working perfectly and I'm running an MSD6AL. The dist. was purchased from a local Mopar racer who went big block. It has 18 deg and all in @ 2200. I have a brand new small block stroker 400 c.i. R1 motor with professionally ported W2 race heads. I'm running a 1050 Dominator built by Herb McCandless a few years ago. When dropping in my dist. gear it didn't fall in line with the crank and it's a tight fit. So I began #1 where it fell in. Does this make a difference? Also I bought a new cap and rotor package for the dist. The dist. cap terminals are not copper, they're aluminum. What gives? And this came from MP!! Finally, is 18 deg a bit much for dist. advance. Need some real help here. What are all the other fellow Mopar guys running? Thanks in advance, Wedgehead

[67Dart]

Is the Dist. Locked???Or does it have the advance.
Check for tracking in Dist., Have a friend running MSD Dist.??? Try borrow it.

[fat bastard]

Wedge, I think you should go back and reset the distributor drive. Bring the motor so #1 piston is back at TDC, and remove the distributor gear and reset it so the slot follows the centerline of the motor. Now try and set your total timing. Recheck your timing around 3000 rpms to make sure the distributor is not overadvancing. For a race motor, 18 initial and 18 mechanical sounds ok. You might need to recurve youre dist. for optimum performance, so now would be a good time to graph your timing along with the corresponding rpms.
F.B.

[wedgehead]

67Dart, the distributor is not locked. I've thought of trying that. I actually locked the street/strip dist.and it worked very well but I haven't locked this one. Does anybody really know if it really matters where #1 is placed on the dist. cap terminal? If it does I'm gonna really catch he** trying to get my intermediate shaft out. It's really a tight fit. I know about rotating the helical cut gears backwards but it's worse than that!! Any more info that you guys can share with me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Wedgehead

[71 scamp]

I've always read that the dist. drive gear slot was suppose to aim right at the front water jacket in the head right by the #1 cylinder. Have I been doing it wrong? Let me know.

P.S. My MP race tach drive dist. runs flawless. It was bought new, I've never had any luck with used parts.
Your new motor sounds like it'll be a screamer!

Also, what does it mean to have your dist. 'locked'?
And if the intermediate shaft is the dist. drive gear you can loop wire around the gear and pull up while turning with a screwdriver, I had one made by MP that was way to tight and replaced it with a Melling, it slid right in. I think the rotor is suppose to point right at the #1 spark plug wire on the cap when the motor is at top dead center.

[wedgehead]

I would like more info on the race dist. by MP. Is there anyone else out there that are willing to share with us more knowledge of the dist. such as the counter weights and if it matters where #1 is timed on the cap. Does it make a difference if the drive gear slot is not in line with the crank ie. aimed at #1 cylinder. Also, anyone that bought a MP race dist. new, I'd like to know what #'s are on the advance weights. I wouldn't want you to go to much trouble but I bought mine used and want to know if they have been changed. Your help would be grestly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Wedgehead

[Dennis Jokela]

WEDGEHEAD:

IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH TERMINAL ON THE CAP YOU USE AS NUMBER 1.

I THINK 18 DEGREES IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS TO MUCH. THAT IS 36 AT THE CRANK, WHICH MEANS THAT YOU HAVE TO TIME IT AT 0 INITIAL. I WOULD EITHER FIND SOME DIST. WEIGHTS THAT ARE STAMPED AROUND 12 DEGREES OR LESS, SO YOU CAN USE AT LEAST 10 DEGREES INITIAL.

IF YOU CAN'T FIND THE RIGHT WEIGHTS YOU WILL HAVE TO BRAZE OR WELD THE SLOTS TO MAKE THEM SHORTER. WHICH IS TRIAL AND ERROR AT BEST.

I HOPE THIS HELPS.

DENNIS

P.S. IF YOU NEED MORE INFO E-MAIL ME. DENNIS

[71 scamp]

My dist. also has the aluminum cap terminals and Mancini racing told me the dist. drive gear slot should aim at the #1 cylinder like mine does. And when my motor is at tdc the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire on the cap. I guess theres different ways of doing it , this is just how mine is set up.
As far as #'s on the weights, do I need to take the whole dist. apart or are they visible below the cap? If they're not visible the MP tech line might be able to give you the #'s.