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#1
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Well, I adjusted my new Crane 1.6 roller rockers last night (383, worked heads, stock pistons,Comp Cams XE274H cam). I had put about 750 miles on the car with the new cam and rockers in, and wanted to make sure they were still set right. I had never done this job before, but I had fun trying. When I started the engine up, I thought OH SH*T! It was pretty noisy. I assume this must be normal, until the oil gets back up to the heads? After about one minute they had quieted down again. SOOO, I went to take a quick test drive, try out the new G-tech Pro, etc. I made two runs with the car and on each run, at the top of 2nd and 3rd gear, it felt like I had let up off the gas (but I didn't). This did happen to me once before, when I was low on gas. However, now it happened twice in a row, with a FULL tank of gas. I would think it is a fuel delivery problem, but I am nervous in light of this happening RIGHT AFTER my first valve adjustment. Does it sound like I set something incorrectly? I imagine my car has the stock (5/16? I think) diameter fuel line. Have I just achieved power levels that demand more fuel? What is the best, most affordable way to remedy this? My car is driven on the street and strip. I would like to enclose some photos, but cannot figure out how yet on MoparChat!?#%@$! Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
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#2
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my car did the same thing and i too thought it was a fuel problem but it turned out to be floating valves. the springs were not replaced when i put in a 474 280 cam so i was running the old tired stock springs. did you change your springs when you put that cam in?
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#3
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Yes, I did replace the springs with the Comp Cams recommended springs. I was afraid of that (floating the valves or something). So what did I do? Overtighten the rockers? The Mopar Performance book says 1 to 1/2 turns past zero lash; the Crane Rockers arms instructions say 1 turn; I have heard before on this forum 1/2 turn. ??? I did adjust them 1 full turn past zero lash. Also, some valves seemed to offer much more resistance to tightening than some others. Is this normal? I set the intake valves when the exhaust valves were almost open and the exhaust valves when the intakes were almost closed (or vice-versa, I had the proper instructions in front of me at the time).
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#4
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I've never used the system that you did when setting preload. I always use an indicator to make sure that the lifter is on the base of the cam and not positioned on the lobe anywhere. I dont know if this is contributing to your problem but just thought I'd add this.
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#5
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I did the whole thing pretty slowly, making sure I set them all at the proper time. Maybe I will reset them all at 1/2 to 3/4 turn, and see what happens. Do you think I hurt anything? It still seems to run strong.
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#6
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Actually, I just saw Crane's website. On the TECH section, it says to use 1/2 a turn. On the instruction sheet they gave me, it says a FULL turn. What gives? Another question, it says on the website to turn the engine by hand when adjusting; is this necessary. I was using a remote starter button to click into the right positions. Was that part of my problem, or is it OK to do it like that?
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#7
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I was hoping for some more comments before I work on the car this weekend. Any ideas, anybody?
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#8
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You should be able to use the valve lash chart for mechanical cams to insure that the lifters are on the cams base circle (zero lift). Try rolling the engine over by hand so you have total control over the crankshaft positioning.
http://www.geocities.com/musclemopars/lash.htm If you don't have a degreed damper you can pick up a self adhesive timing tape or you can mark the damper yourself. Here's a link that explains how. http://www.geocities.com/musclemopars/bbcranks.htm On a cold engine, I'd try using a 1/2 turn because the lash will tighten up a bit when the engine reaches operating temp. How do you determine zero lash? Here's what works for me...I roll the pushrod between my fingers as I tighten the rocker, so I can feel the drag when it reaches zero lash. Then give it the 1/2 turn. |
#9
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As far as a fuel supply prob,what did the gtech say for et? a stock fuel pump is usually done at anything past 14 flat,I say usually because my 12 valiant gets away with a stock one,even a cheap checker one its a mystery.As far as lash adjustment Ive found et gains having the lifter plunger depressed only .010,chrysler reccomends .030-060,.010 is usually about an 1/8 of a turn past zero lash.........PRO.......
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#10
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Pro is it possible to measure lifter preload with the engine assembled and in the car? If so, how?
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#11
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Have you modified your pickup in the tank.
Mopar magazines have all done articles on this mod. |
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