Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!



Go Back   Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide! > Technical Forums > Performance Talk

Click here to search for Mopar cars and parts for sale.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-20-2001, 03:43 PM
charger500guy's Avatar
charger500guy charger500guy is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Age: 49
Posts: 162
Question

Well, my Charger 500 with 383 simple has not run cool since I got built up the engine a few years ago. I did not raise the compression, I do not have a radical cam, etc. So far I had the 22 inch radiator recored, added tranny cooler (NOT blocking the radiator), new shroud, new MP clutch fan, 180 high quality thermostat, etc. The car runs great, and I can see the thermostat opens up right at 180 on the aftermarket guage, and runs in normal range for a while, then if I drive around town, or slow down much, it keeps creeping up to 200 and even a little over. Never has gone above 210-215, but WHY is it still running so hot? I just added some of the Water Wetter, and it didn't really help much. It seems like somebody said once that he noticed his new FelPro head gaskets lacked some of the cooling passage holes. Now I am paranoid that this is what is going on. I used the FelPro Permatorque Blue, I think. Could this be the problem, or does anybody else have any ideas? Help is GREATLY appreciated!!!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-20-2001, 03:53 PM
duster360 duster360 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: bradenton fl
Age: 53
Posts: 411
Default

check your carb, is it running lean? check your spark plugs and see if there are white in color, also is there any bubbles in the coolant?(from the compression) is your rad flowing? check with your hand and see if there are any cold spots on the rad.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-20-2001, 03:55 PM
Lee Pritchard's Avatar
Lee Pritchard Lee Pritchard is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: st petersburg fl
Age: 67
Posts: 369
Cool

I use the felpro 1009s but i dont think that your problem..the 22 inch rad is to small . go to a 3 core hd 26 rad, with a morso high volume pump and make sure you use a high volume 180 stat...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-20-2001, 05:24 PM
BEEP383 BEEP383 is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Huntsville, AL, USA
Age: 59
Posts: 75
Cool Same prob on a different scale...........

Recently I had a cooling problem with my Slant 6 Dodge Ram Pick up, the truck wouldnt cool at all I changed out the thermostat. The would actually run cooler without the stat in it. I saw that I had a 4 blade flat fan on the motor, so I went to my garage & tried to put on a 7-blade viscous fan from my 400 to 451 project. It wouldn't fit (wider bolt pattern), so I went to the salvage yard & found a 5-blade high pitch clutch fan and shroud off a 80's model Dynasty. It bolted right up to the Slant 6 since putting those 2 pieces on I have had no temp lights come anymore. The size of my radiator was 26 inches with 2 rows for cooling across, later I went to the salvage yard & got a larger radiator off a 400 motor Dodge van. This radiator is closer to 29 inches & has 3 rows in it for big block motors. The radiator cost $25.00, the fan & shroud was $15.00 together. My local radiator shop refinished the radiator for $59.00. So long story short, that 26 inch radiator wouldn't cool my Slant 6 so I figure that same one woulnd't do for your big block 383. FIND you a 3 row radiator & make sure your fan has pitch to help flow that air through it so it can keep your engine cool & you can keep your kewl!!!!!!! LATER!!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-20-2001, 05:50 PM
amoparguy's Avatar
amoparguy amoparguy is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Shoreview, MN
Posts: 454
Default

Usually low speed cooling problems are related to poor airflow through the radaitor or poor flow through the cooling system. Is the fan properly positioned in the shroud? I put a MP fan-clutch on my 440 and it positioned the fan too close to the radaitor (almost touching) Ideally the fan should be positioned about halfway into the opening in the shroud.
Other possibilities are a bad waterpump, improper ignition timing or a collapsed radaitor hose, do you recall if the coil spring is in the lower hose?
I run a 10.4:1 CR 440 with a .509 cam. Cooling chores are handled by a 160 degree 'stat, rebuilt waterpump, viscous fan and a 4 row 22" radaitor (no shroud) Overheating hasn't been a problem so far,
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-20-2001, 08:23 PM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: RURAL Tennesse
Age: 58
Posts: 1,839
Cool Suspect iginition timing issues

Check your vacuum advance and see how many degrees it advances at low speed. Easy check.
First check your initial timing with a timing light. With the vacuum unpluged or pluged in there shouldn't be more than a degree or so of difference at idle. Now unplug the vacuum line from the 'ported' vacuum on the carb and plug it into direct vacuum. Check with your timing light and see what the timing has changed too.
I had this problem. My 383 would get too hot while driving slow or in traffic. One day I was messing with the timing and forgot to hook the vacuum advance back up. My overheating problem went away. I did this little test and at idle off direct vacuum it was pulling 34* advance! I backed the vacuum advance way down with an allen wrench until it was only pulling it to about 20* so it was adding 8* to my 12* initial advance. Over heating problem went away, runs great, work fine; last long time

(OH< I should mention this was on a fresh rebuild with new 26" 3 core radiator, new pump ect)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-20-2001, 10:47 PM
BILL THOMPSON BILL THOMPSON is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: peterborough,ontario canada
Age: 48
Posts: 502
Default fan

The problem sounds like your fan if the car won't cool at an idle or low speed check your clutch on a clutch fan or put a 6 or 7 blade,sharp angled blade fan on it,If all else fails try an electric fan.




1939 dodge coupe pro street
6:71 supercharged 383 BB
10000 mile daily summer driver
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-20-2001, 11:13 PM
ehostler's Avatar
ehostler ehostler is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Annandale, VA
Age: 57
Posts: 15,212
Default

My car started having the same problem. Only difference is that I hadn't done anything to the engine. First, I decided that it was a faulty thermostat. I changed it to a Mr. Gasket HI-FLOW 180. The old one was a cheap design 160, with a very weak spring.

The new thermostat has made a difference, but it still gets to hot in more stop than go traffic, when the outside temp is above 75.

After reading through this column, I now that that the problem is most likely my vacuum advance being set to high. I upgraded to the MOPAR electronic ignition, in the fall. I have the initial advance and vacuum advance adjust to where they are on the verge of causeing ping. With that being the case, I am sure that my vacuum advance is set too far advanced.

I will have to back it down and see what happens.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-20-2001, 11:34 PM
toolman toolman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Temecula, California, USA
Age: 61
Posts: 154
Default cooling

I run my built 383 with 38 degrees initial advance all the time. I drive it on the street most of the time, in heavy traffic. I set at stoplights forever and my temp is never above 180. I use a 160 degree high flow thermostadt. My motor used to get hot or nearly overheat in these conditions and with a 22" rad. I went to a rad shop and the old guy there told me to change some things and they worked. Some of these things have been mentioned by the other guys trying to help you. The 26" rad, space the trans cooler one to two inches away from the rad, but most inportant was the fan and shroud placement. As said before, the fan must be half way into the shroud opening. The fan blades must not be more than 3/4'' away from the edge of the shroud, nor closer than 1/2" at its closest . Check this all around the shroud, especially at the bottom where it is usually at its closest. I had a clutch fan that was in too far into the shroud and too small a diameter. All I did was change the fan to a heavy duty flex fan with the big blades not the little stiff ones. I had to get a spacer and cut it to get the fan exactly halfway into the shroud opening. The fan blades are 1/2'" away from touching the shroud at the tips of the blades. This fixed my 2 year problem in only 2 hours! In 115 degree California heat stop and go cruising is no problem. Also, before the fan change, I could not feel any air pulling when I put my hand in front of the grill with the car idling. Now, when I do it, it feels like a large vacuum cleaner sucking. Try it and see.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-21-2001, 11:35 AM
charger500guy's Avatar
charger500guy charger500guy is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Age: 49
Posts: 162
Default

Well, all of your comments seem like logical explanations, and I bet one or many of them are causing my problem. I know for certain that my fan is awfully close to the radiator. I hope I can back it out a little bit; I don't remember a spacer in there to remove, and it is the MP clutch fan kit. I wouldn't doubt if the vacuum advance is off as well. I will address these issues, and let you know how it comes out. Thank you everybody for your expertise!!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-21-2001, 01:06 PM
fillet o'soul fillet o'soul is offline
Inactive User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Chatham, near London England
Age: 60
Posts: 29
Lightbulb fan orientation? fan shroud

is it possible to fit the fan the wrong way 'round...back to front...if so they don't work as well...I know from bitter experience!


also, some cars have a cardboard type shroud around the fan to direct cool air pulled thru the front grill thru the rad'.... if its missing the fan will just move hot air thru the rad from the engine bay....again I know from bitter experience.....


cheers

Richard
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
cooling problem wheels2 Performance Talk 13 07-28-2008 09:43 PM
cooling problem Rods67Cuda Performance Talk 17 07-21-2005 11:00 PM
cooling system problem Gromski Performance Talk 0 04-14-2000 10:35 AM
Puzzling 400 problem azazello Performance Talk 8 01-14-2000 07:53 AM
78 360 cooling problem STACEY PENDLEY Performance Talk 7 09-27-1999 04:17 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
. . . . .