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#1
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How do you do this, is it ok to run on the street like that and what does it do for performance?
And I'll try this question again, Does the distributor drive gear get dropped in with the slot aimed at the water jacket in head near #1 cylinder or does it run parallel with the crankshaft? |
#2
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The slot in the gear needs to be parallel to the crank when #1 is at TDC.
To lock your Distributor, you need to take it apart, and remove the springs that hold the weights in torard the shaft....then fill the slots with epoxy to keep the weights from moving...can also weld them too. I Run mine locked, i also run a Dominator carb which is calibrated for this....it runs real rich if it is not locked...starting can be a problem....i just broke the nose off of my MP starter...but that happened when the motor sneezed and took teeth off of the converter. Getting a CSI starter now....that will crank it.. |
#3
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What difference does the slot's orientation make as long as the rotor lines up with #1 on the cap with the #1 piston at TDC?
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#4
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only thing that might hang u up is the orientation of the vac advance canister....if its out, it might hit the valvecover...other than that, just line up #1 piston with #1 plug wire..
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#5
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That's what I figured. My distributor dosen't have a vacuum advance on it so That isn't a problem either.
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#6
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cdignition, you sure have alot of gas powered lawn equipment. What do you do for a living?
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#7
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Aren't the "lean burn" distributors locked?
If I remember correctly I tried to install a curve kit in one of these when I was a kid and took the whole thing apart only to find it had no advance....LOL |
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