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  #1  
Old 05-23-2001, 03:29 AM
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PINK71T/A PINK71T/A is offline
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Question

I have been wanting to convert my Automatic challenger
over to 4 speed but figured my crank would have to be
drilled but in the recent Mopar Action (i think Mopar Action) they swapped a 4 speed into a Auto
and they Mentioned About your crank being drilled
(well i knew that much) But then it said something that
totally shocked me. They said Mopar Performance
sold a piece that would hook a 833 4-speed up to a
engine that the Crank had not been Drilled! it said
it fit in the Torque converter Hub recess in the crank
but it also said you had to chop some of the snout off
the 4-speed i was wanting to know if any of you guys
have heard of this piece (i currently don't have a
Mopar Performance catalog.. I KNOW SHAME SHAME!!)
and if any of you have a COMPLETE 4 speed setup for sale out of a Big block Challenger(pedals,trans,rods,bellhousing,everythin g to swap over)
Let me know how much you want for it. Thanks Guys!
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Old 05-23-2001, 04:39 AM
folke folke is offline
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If your crank is a forged one it should already be drilled. Just be sure to get the bushing that is for an auto-to-manual conversion (the drilling in the auto cranks are slightly smaller than in cranks orignally mounted on manuals).

And if your car is an original auto one I think getting the crank drilled is would be one of your minor problems!. Maybe you have full control over this, and if so, you know there are some modifications that has to be done to the car. Like pedal set-up, rebuilding the drive shaft tunnel to accommodate the linkage of the manual trans, welding a cross-shaft mounting bracket to the body.... I am restoring my originally manual trans Challenger to manual and I find it hard to get the mix of old junkyard and aftermarket parts (you have to have a mix since not everything is available as new) work together without hazzle. ...and I have the body and pedal modifications “for free”. Good luc
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Old 05-23-2001, 06:22 AM
JERICOGTX JERICOGTX is offline
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Yes Mopar does have a roller bearing that fits in the end of the crankshaft. I have used one before with very good results. Not sure of the # off hand but will look at home, for the magazine article. The bearing is cheap by the way something like 8 bucks.
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Old 05-23-2001, 10:00 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by folke
And if your car is an original auto one I think getting the crank drilled is would be one of your minor problems!. Maybe you have full control over this, and if so, you know there are some modifications that has to be done to the car. Like pedal set-up, rebuilding the drive shaft tunnel to accommodate the linkage of the manual trans, welding a cross-shaft mounting bracket to the body.... I am restoring my originally manual trans Challenger to manual and I find it hard to get the mix of old junkyard and aftermarket parts (you have to have a mix since not everything is available as new) work together without hazzle. ...and I have the body and pedal modifications “for free”. Good luck.
I converted a '70 Challenger to a 4-speed, many years ago. I didn't have any problems. The 383 was already had the pilot hole (I lucked out). The 4-speed tranny used the same cross member as the automatic. I pulled the pedal assemble from another wrecked E body. The shifter tunel was easy to open up and then rebuld with fiberglass. I used a Hurst V gate shifter, so the shift tunel had to be setup for that.

The engine bay already had everything in place for the Z-bar. Due to the heavy clutch that I used, I broke one of the Z-bar pivots. I replaced both with heavy bolts that fit the inside of the Z-bar perfectl
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2001, 01:23 PM
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PINK71T/A PINK71T/A is offline
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I know a guy who has the 4-speed pedals
for a e-body. and the Trans tunnels are available
from Sherman and Associates I'll Just grind the old pan
out and Fire up the old MIG welder!!
and as far as the rods i think those will be my biggest
enemy i was looking in my Challenger Cuda restoration
Guide and it has factory 4-speed car diagram
and it looks like i have to Cut hole in front subframe
and weld a bracket on (i believe the bracket is available
aftermarket) but i know for sure that my crank IS NOT
Drilled. Thanks again guys!
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