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#1
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Any guess on HP.
Can anyone guess on what my HP is? I have a 383 that is 40 over, 440 lift/270 duration cam. M1 dual intake manifold and 600 cfm carb. Everything else is stock.
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#2
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Maybe 310 to 350 HP? What compression?
What is the cam duration @ 0.050", is it a single pattern cam, who makes the cam? Do you have magnum manifolds or log manifolds? Dual or single exhaust? Rember that a 270 duration cam is probbly close in size to the stock 383 HP cam. The lower compression 1971 engine was rated at 300 HP. The manifold may be worth a few HP? |
#3
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Yeah, the cam almost looks like a stock replacement. so you wouldn't be pushing more then 330-350. unless your CR is like 10:1 .
.sbuc |
#4
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The static comp is 125 psi. I don't know what the CR is though. I didn't realise that this was a stock cam. Any idea on what the 1/4 mile ET might be?
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#5
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Someones put in 9:1 pistons in your engine, probably so it would run on pump reg. I really doubt if your making 300HP. Not teaching enginering here, but the cam has to be suitable for the compression ratio. Yours isn't really.Your static compression ratio is really less than 8.5:1 Air pressure(unless you're on a mountain) is 14.8lbs/sq.in . Divide that into your pressure reading and that's what you've REALLY got. You've probably got Fel-Pro type gaskets too, and that lowers compression(and power). Now figure in you're over-carburated for the soft squeeze, and mis-matched(now) cam, and timing.Gee, isn't it easy to screw up things? Based on the little hard info we've got, you're looking at 15+++sec quarter times at 85MPH tops. Now your car is probably a great daily driver and all that, and it may be a show queen, but with the engine set-up you've got, a V-6 Camry or Accord can have you for lunch.Sorry.
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#6
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Any suggestions on how I could increase my compression or on what type of cam I should have.
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#7
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Compression
Well, without Pulling your Crank+rods+pistons out, the only real way to increase your compression would be, pulling your heads, and either getting them "shaved" down, or replacing them with closed chamber reproduction heads (i hear edelbrock heads rock on mopars). Or.. you could always Supercharge it, with a low compression like 8.5:1 you could prolly get away with a nice supercharger without getting new pistons. that would affectively increase performance, without pulling your block apart.
it all depends on how much money you wanna spend, IMO i'd go with the Edelbrock heads, but they'll run ya 2500$ (depending). thats my $0.02 .sbuc |
#8
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Check out this site for HP calculations.
http://www.acsgraphicspics.homestead.com/convert.html It will calculate based on trap speed and ET at the quarter. So run the quarter a few times and key in the numbers. I'm working on an application that will run on a laptop that you can take to the track. That way you'll be able to 'tweak' your car for bracket racing. If you'd like a version of the program please let me know and I'll email it to you. Bob O'Neill |
#9
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Charger70, a set of Keith Black hyperkentic pistons, should get your compression to what ever you want, then you cam is gonna be back to where it can let the motor "breathe".Pistons and moly rings will cost less than heads...but it's an engine teardown.You've also got a pretty small carburator on that motor. I thought those came with a 650CFM Thermoquad minimum, but I'm not certain. I do know a 383 "built" for street can give you 350-375HP. A month or two back Mopar Muscle had some tips on the 383. In real life using premium pump gas, you should look at about 150LBS static compression with iron heads. Some guys go as high as 175, but that gets real finicky in a hurry. Any way you go, you'll need to get your distibutor re-curved, cause unleaded needs alot less intial advance to keep from knocking holes in pistons.
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