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Old 06-28-2001, 07:05 AM
kingjr kingjr is offline
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Default MP elect dist ??

Does anyone know the correct setting for the mag pickup inside the distributor? It has the slotted mount the slides on the hold down screw. Is this even critical, car seemed to run the same no matter where it was set at. I need some advice on installing the lightweight spring kit, and what should my timing be after installation. 383hp, w/big cam, headers, edel rpm, 10" dynamic, etc. Its set to 12deg right now and seems to start pretty well. But I don't know how much advance it has or when it comes in. Any advice is appreciated, thanks. <><
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Old 06-28-2001, 11:23 AM
beepbeepsrule beepbeepsrule is offline
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Talking about the clearance between the reluctor that spins with the shaft and the magnetic pickup: .008 to .010 inches. Best to use brass feeler gauges. What I have had the best results from is getting it as close as you can wthout it hitting. If it is out of the car then you can tell when it is right when turning it by hand. It will pull the shaft to the next reluctor "spike" position and there will be a noticeable drag each time a reluctor spike passes the coil pickup. Look between the reluctor and the pickup -- the gap should be very even insuring the pickup is mounted straight and parallel. Sometimes the plate that the pickup coil is mounted on is bent or warped and the gap will not be even. This must be fixed before the gap can be set. This gap is not as critical as the older style points gap because the electronic ignition box (also called an amplifier) cleans up the signal and can tolerate a problematic gap setting.
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Old 06-28-2001, 11:28 AM
beepbeepsrule beepbeepsrule is offline
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Regarding timing curve and initial advance: Generally with the MP distributor an initial advance from 8 and 12 degrees BTDC will give you the total advance of 34-36 degrees after the weights have moved all the way out. BUT THE BEST THING TO LOOK AT is the total advance. Use a dial back to zero timing light for this. Check it at 3000 rpm then again at 4000 to make sure the weights are all the way out. Timing lights are only as accurate as the marks on the vibration damper and I have seen these be off a ways. You still have to listen for pinging under load and check the spark plugs after a while looking for the white-hot detonation signs.
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Old 06-28-2001, 11:35 AM
beepbeepsrule beepbeepsrule is offline
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Regarding the timing curve and modifying the weight springs: If the timing does not change from 3000 to 4000 rpm then you can probably assume all the timing is in by 3000. Check it at 2000, you will want it ALL in by then. The springs I have the best results from are from MR Gasket* I think, and they are for a Ford distributor! Both springs are identical in tension, and they have slightly larger holes and are easier to install. They make for a very even timing curve and allow full advance at right at 2000-2200 rpm. They also have just enough tension to keep the weights pulled back at 800-1000 rpm. This is good for a cammed up motor that must idle a little higher than a stocker, the weights aren't starting to move until about 1200 rpm. Makes it easy to check initial advance plus it will idle smoother when the weights aren't jumping around.

*Found my extra set of those springs. The brand is TransDapt. Their part number is 4451. The description is "Distributor Advance Curve Kit -- Late Ford 1965-1970".
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Old 06-28-2001, 01:35 PM
kingjr kingjr is offline
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Thanks beepbeep, I do appreciate your time and experience! <><
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