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  #1  
Old 07-07-2001, 04:21 PM
mauve66 mauve66 is offline
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Default Disc brake conversions

anybody out there ever used one of the kits available (MP Brakes, SS Brakes, etc to change over to discs? Specifically looking for problems with 66-67 B body, quality control, clear directions, etc but all info helpful. 4 wheel would be nice but MP Brakes only shows a front kit and I can't get into SS brakes web site. One of the problems with the MP setup is it requires 15 inch wheels for the front and I just bought a set of 14X6 Torque Thrusts for the front. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2001, 06:42 PM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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I've looked into all the bolt on kits and the only one that lets you keep your 14" rims is the SS Brakes setup. I'm kinda in the same boat as you are with 14" rims. Mopar Muscle Magazine has done a couple of the SS Brake Conversions. One of them is on a 69 Charger.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/e...=text&id=11258
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/e...=text&id=26038

I'm thinking of doing this swap myself. Hope this helps
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2001, 01:04 PM
mauve66 mauve66 is offline
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thanks, I'll have to call them as I still can't download thier listings to get pricing and part numbers, etc for some reason. Anybody else have first hand experiances??
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2001, 04:54 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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I can get to their web site with no problems.

Stainless Steel Brakes Corp.
11470 Main Road
Clarence NY 14031
Tel: (800) 448-7722
Tel: (716) 759-8688

www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com


65 - 72 B-Body

Front non-power conversion kits
A156 FRONT Non-Power DRUM TO DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT $895.00


Front power conversion kits
A156-1 FRONT Power Brake DRUM TO DISC CONVERSION KIT $1,095.00


Superduty conversion kits
A156-2 FRONT Non-Power Drum to Disc Brake Conversion Kit, Featuring 4 piston Aluminum calipers $1,295.00


"Force 10" Extreme conversion kits
A156-3 FRONT Power Brake Drum to Disc Conversion Kit, Featuring 4 piston Aluminum calipers $1,495.00


Rear conversion
A155 REAR DRUM TO DISC CONVERSION KIT WITH BUILT IN PARKING BRAKES, for 8-3/4" & 9-3/4" rear axles $725.00
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2001, 07:30 PM
mauve66 mauve66 is offline
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Ihad been able to get to the site but I had been trying to download thier application guide instead of using the "search for brakes" that was highlighted. After your post I decided to try again and got the listing easier that way, thanks for the info.
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  #6  
Old 07-09-2001, 01:02 AM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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Whatever you do, don't get a Wilwood kit. I bought one for a rear drum to disk conversion for and 8 3/4 and the damn thing won't fit no matter what I do. I got it a month ago, and I am still trying to find a way to make it fit...
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  #7  
Old 07-09-2001, 01:25 PM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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What doesn't fit? Did you call Wilwood to get help? What did they tell you about your problem? Do you have green bearings? I think these kits will only fit on axles with green bearings.
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  #8  
Old 07-09-2001, 05:43 PM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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I have Green bearings, and I think it might be the other way around (only works w/o Green bearings). I checked all the dimensions twice and have reassembled the pieces in every (and I do mean every) possible combination I can think of. Whenever I call the Wilwood tech line, I always find myself on hold for a long time so I hang up.

One way or another, I'm sure I will find a way to make it work, I always do, but it has just not been pleasant and although it's just my opinion, I have to say, so far I regret the purchase...

The kit instructions say that the bracket goes between the bearing flange and the axle housing flange, but it doesn't fit there. So I put it in front of the Green bearing flange, then the bracket is too close and rubs on the rotor hat. The distance between the flange face and the axle face is 2.36" as recommended by the kit. I am wits end. If you have made one fit, please tell me how..any info appreciated...
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  #9  
Old 07-09-2001, 11:40 PM
451boy 451boy is offline
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Mauve66, why don't you use factory parts instead of aftermarket? That way you'll be able to repair it without having to track down some aftermarket company that went out of business.

There are at least 3 factory setups that will go onto a '66 B body and allow the use of 14 inch rims. The late model B body rotor is the best setup but it takes 15 inch rims.
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  #10  
Old 07-10-2001, 10:44 AM
h_tolley h_tolley is offline
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Default I'd use factory parts

I would use the factory parts to upgrade. The whole thing should run you under $300 if you have a local you-pick-it yard that has what you need. The larger rotor option will require 15" wheels but you'll still be bucks ahead if you have to buy new wheels and have to sell the 14s at a swap meet.
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  #11  
Old 07-10-2001, 12:38 PM
451boy 451boy is offline
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You might also want to check out the stuff at www.ARengineering.com as they are doing some Mopar brake stuff that nobody else is doing.
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2001, 05:39 PM
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DusterBill DusterBill is offline
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Exclamation SS brakes kit

I'm still trying to get a SSbrakes kit to work on my 72 A-body. They sent me two sets of rotors, on which they had not done their machining. The third set doesn't fit either, and we are trying to figure out why.

Bad point, three sets of rotors that don't fit

Good point, they were honest about their mistakes, and have made an effort to fix the problem.

I'm suppose to talk with their tech person tomorrow, to try to figure out the problem.
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2001, 10:28 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Hey kekoakeakane - 451boy brings up a good point about future parts. You appear to have done alot of research into this already, so maybe you know the answer. Are the SSB rotors and pads common enough to be purchased (as replacements) at the local auto parts store. In other words, if you put the SSB kit on your car and then SSB goes away in two years, are you going to be able to get new brakes for the car or are you SOL and have to upgrade to a different brand or maybe do the salvage yard upgrade??
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2001, 11:07 PM
mauve66 mauve66 is offline
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I was wanting four wheel disc and didn't think that an OEM setup was available back then. I started thinking about discs after pricing replacement drums, pads, hardware, booster and mastercylinder. It was over $700 and then they would still be drum brakes. Hopeing to upgrade the motor in the next couple of years and want to be sure of stopping ability. Switching the front wheels wouldn't be hard as I may have got the wrong back spacing for the rears as there is alot of room to the spring but not to the wheel well lip, I might have to sell them anyway, they are brand new, measure three times and buy only once!! I never really thought about the pad or hardware issue but I would think that they use the pads available on the market. I remember one article that said the rotors for the rear had to be switched L side to R side on some of the older mopars and that it wasn't explained in the instructions but I would think that they would of fixed that by now
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  #15  
Old 07-11-2001, 08:54 PM
goldduster goldduster is offline
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The Cheapest, most easy to find parts for way is to get '73-'76 A-body Disc Spindles and use the factory 10.87" rotors (fits 14" wheels) and use the single piston calipers.

Prices for the replacement parts go for about

Rotors: $35
Calipers: about $25
Balljoints (you'll probably need new ones)
TOP: $15
Bottom: $25.

Talk about a CHEAP setup for a B-body. Just go to the Pick-your-part!!
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  #16  
Old 07-12-2001, 12:31 AM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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ehostler,

I've actually got an e-mail into SS Brakes on that very topic. Apparently they've been in business for upwards of 20 years so I'm not overly concerned that they'll drop out in a couple years. Of course if I do go that route and I am concerned about new parts, I could always buy spare parts now and store them. How many new rotors could I need in my lifetime.

By the same token, how long are parts stores and manufacturers going to continue to make and stock the stock replacement parts for 30+ year old cars. Have you tried getting a replacement caliper for a 68 B-Body? I was looking on the NAPA website and they won't even let me select a 68 Road Runner. The earliest is 70. And remember that 1976 is not that much newer.

My problem is that I really, really hate the single piston floating caliper. The pads on both of my other cars all wear unevenly due to this. It's not just pad wear, but this means that the brakes aren't as strong as they can be. If I can find a way to put all weather 4 piston fixed calipers on the stock 10.87" rotor and let me keep my 14" rims, I would throw the SS Brake idea out the window.

Has someone figured this out?
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  #17  
Old 07-12-2001, 01:20 AM
ValleyAnt ValleyAnt is offline
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Smile I second Goldduster....

After much investigation, I have concluded that Goldduster has the easiest and cheapets way to go. In fact I just came from NAPA. Here's what I found to be the most efficient use of $$$ and all new parts except the used upper control arm and spindle from a '75 Duster(junkyard).....From NAPA=Master Cylinder from '85 5thAve. ($93), Rotors ($120), Complete caliper set ($90), Bearings ($40) Flex lines ($54). Total is $378 plus junk yard upper control arm and spindles ($50). So the new grand total is $428 vs. $900 for SS Brakes. The rest of my money can now go into a poly front end rebuild kit $320. Conclusion...less money spent but more stuff got done.
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  #18  
Old 07-12-2001, 02:36 AM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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For the record, I have never disputed that the junkyard swap wasn't the cheapest way to go.

As far as the easiest that's another story. The SS Brake kit consists of pulling off the drum, shoes, and backing plate, then installing rotor, caliper, proportioning valve and new M/C.

The junkyard swap however, requires you now to also pull the upper ball joint which is actually not the easiest thing in the world sometimes since rust tends to bind things. It may also require you to swap the spindles because of sway bar interference. This of course is after you've installed the new spindle and rotor and caliper and then realise you have an interference problem. Now lets disassemble everything again and swap sides. Oh, that's right, I have to now bleed my brakes before I install my calipers because the bleed screw is now on the bottom.

I have seen the Wilwood setup at www.ARengineering.com and the only problem is that I would need to replace my 14" rims and the Wilwood Calipers do not have a weather seal and are not DOT approved.

BTW, why is everyone so intent to scrimp and save money on a brake upgrade, but interested in spending $800+ on a roller cam setup. The only disadvantage of the SS Brake setup is it's cost. It's easier to install and provides better calipers=better brakes while retaining the 14" rims.
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  #19  
Old 07-12-2001, 02:46 AM
ValleyAnt ValleyAnt is offline
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Default Why scrimp and save?

Because I'm a student and have extremely limited funds. That's why. I have to make the most of my hobby. Labor costs me nothing. That is why these brake swaps exist. I would live to purchase one, but cannot afford one within my budget. Although I am now accepting donations, especially from Hawaii, if you would not want me to scrimp.
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2001, 03:11 AM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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I can empathise with your plight and that remark was really not directed at you. It was more for those who have put large sums of money into their brake conversion, but would talk others out of the kit swap just because the junkyard swap is cheaper and for no other performance reason.

Some people do have and are willing to spend the extra money for the bolt-on kits and are asking for others experience with these kits on the board. Instead, they are bombarded with reasons why they should go the cheaper route. Will they get better brakes with the cheaper route? NO! That's why it's cheaper.

I guess that seems to be an overall problem in that people would much rather tell you ways that they did something rather than answer your question.
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  #21  
Old 07-12-2001, 10:33 AM
ValleyAnt ValleyAnt is offline
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Default Hawaiin....

Agreed. That's why this forum is so valuable. Others express unsolicited ideas that are slightly off topic and thus provide new possibilities for those in a quandry. Many times I have changed my original idea because others made me aware of another idea that I had not ever considered.

If I did have the funds though, after my investigations, the SS Brakes would be the way that I would go. This would allow me to essentially keep my stock geometry and suspension pieces. My only question that I have posed to them through e-mail is..."Where do I go for replacement pads"? Which they have not replied yet. Perhaps others may already have that answer. BTW, cool ride. Do they have a drag strip in Hawaii.

Peace out.
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2001, 11:59 AM
goldduster goldduster is offline
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If you have an A-body, your suspension geometry actually gets better by installing the Upper Control arm from a 73-76 A-body, and using the spindles and the lower ball joints.

If you feel like only running 15" wheels, you can upgrade to the 12" rotors and really get some stopping power. All that you need is calipers and caliper adapters for a '78 Dodge Magnum.

Replacement parts and the big bolt pattern is exactly why I am using the junkyard parts. I do replace all wear items before putting them on (bushings, ball joints, bearings, calipers, rotors, brake hoses, etc...) All the parts for this setup are a parts store away. I also don't have a lot of money either, and these brakes are alot better than 10" drums

Add the big rotors and carbon-metallic pads to the factory setup, and you can stop a 3100lb a-body in 132ft from 60 without locking them up (as seen in Mopar Muscle Magizine on Dulcich's Dart) I've atleast seen an article on the SS kit on a '68 Satelite, and it stopped from 60-0 in 147ft. I know there is a weight difference, but the factory setup does do quite well.
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2001, 01:11 PM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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ValleyAnt,

Yes, they do have a drag strip here. Actually, I've been told that there's even a sanctioned race here once a year. I am not objectionable to other ideas if they pose a solution along your lines or warn you about certain pitfalls or give you a performance gain you had not realized or are comparable solutions for less money. If you look back on this thread, you will notice that there are only a few replies (of 22) that actually had responses that were attempting to answer Mauve66's question. The rest of them are telling him to go the cheaper route with no implication of performance. If the response was "The junkyard swap will be as easy, as good in performance as the bolt in kit but it's cheaper" than I could accept that. The responses however only boast that "It's cheaper". This is similar to my asking you how green would look on my car and you tell me that your favorite color is black. That doesn't answer my question.

I in no way feel that you made the wrong decision for you. That's your car. But when I have asked this question before, and expressed that I had considered and discarded the junkyard swap, no one could find a comparable solution to the SS Brake setup for me that would fit my criteria, but kept insisting that the junkyard swap was the way to go. If you check out my previous post http://www.moparchat.com/forums/show...threadid=29663 you see that a couple people tried to help and answer my question, but others kept trying to push the swap.


Goldduster,

Like I said, I think you are the only one that can make a decision for how you do your car. Take a look at my previous post and if you can help me meet my criteria without giving SS Brakes my money, (i.e. keep 14" rims, use 4 piston fixed aluminum all weather calipers) then I am a junkyard swap convert.

BTW guys, if performance is also your thing, then also consider that aluminum 4 piston fixed calipers will save you about 15 - 20 lbs of unsprung weight and better stopping power.

Just my opionion which is what's great about the board.
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  #24  
Old 07-12-2001, 08:57 PM
goldduster goldduster is offline
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Have you ever heard of the Pre-'72 Kelsey-Hayes setup? Hmm...4-piston calipers, works with 14" wheels...BUT rotors are big $$$ and the Caliper Rebuilds are big $$$. I thought the SS kit was a single piston caliper. I really don't know why they are any better than rebuilding factory stuff.

SS KIT:Easier? Definately! Cheaper? NO! Better? Thats 100% debateable. Parts availbility? You have to buy them from the company...that may cost you an arm and a leg.

Do what you want, but my whole point was to open your eyes to other options.
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  #25  
Old 07-12-2001, 09:30 PM
ValleyAnt ValleyAnt is offline
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Default Hawaiin...

You are absolutely right. I was a fool to chime in. These other opinions do not address the topic at hand and would not have benefitted anyone else. I am so unaware and unfocused that it is shameful.

One cannot argue with logic such as yours. I will be sure to not mention my opinion again becuase it is both off topic and unwanted. Again, others would not have benefitted either that were looking for an alternative to spending more money. Besides mentioning a divergent opinion always draws fire from you. What's the use.


Sincere Regards,

ValleyAnt
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  #26  
Old 07-13-2001, 02:49 AM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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ValleyAnt, Goldduster,

I appologize if I came off as a pompous a##. I guess I was just a little perturbed by the fact that I have also been trying to find those with experience at doing these bolt-on kits, but for some reason there never seems to be anyone who has done them. However, I have even been called silly on this forum for even considering the bolt-on kits and not following the flock of the junkyard swap.

Again, I am sorry if I have offended.
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  #27  
Old 07-13-2001, 09:18 AM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Re-read the very first post. If at all possible, he wants 4 wheel disc brakes that will fit under his brand new 14" rims. As NONE of the junk yard swaps will give him 4 wheel discs, it leaves the choice of junkyard swap out of the picture. The SSB kits can be purchased with 4-piston calipers, that will fit under 14" rims and they also have a rear brake kit.

Let's try to answer his questions and not get into a pissing contest! We are supposedly here to offer friendly advice, not barade each other with insults. We are the few, the proud, the MOPAR owners! Let's not drop to the level of brand X owners, due to differing opinions.
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  #28  
Old 07-13-2001, 10:33 AM
ValleyAnt ValleyAnt is offline
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Default It's all good...

I chose Mopar to be different. WE ARE MOPAR. The few and the proud and the most fanatically brand loyal of all. Sorry for flying off the handle. Peace to all.

Cliff(ValleyAnt)
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  #29  
Old 07-13-2001, 04:48 PM
kesteb kesteb is offline
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Please check out this url. This explains how to do a junkyard swap with the pin style calibpers and keep the 14" wheels.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/3978/disk.html
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  #30  
Old 07-13-2001, 05:02 PM
kekoakeakane kekoakeakane is offline
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Thanks for the info. I have only one problem. It told me when to crack the beer open, but never said when I could drink it. My beers getting warm. HELP!
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