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  #1  
Old 07-23-2001, 01:23 AM
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tuffbird tuffbird is offline
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Default Need help with Kickdown Cable on TF727

I just bought a Lokar Kickdown cable and followed the instructions for installation but this REALLY changed the way the TF727 shifts. If I have the car in Drive, and I start moving, it shift REAL early when I follow their instructions. In fact, it shifts from first at around 15 mph, then second to third at about 30.

I know this can't be good.

The lever engages when the primaries are about 60 degrees open. I tied a spring to the kickdown lever at the transmission to keep it steady and routed the line as instructed. I now have about 1 inch of excess at the carb so the throttle has to engage at least that far before the kickdown lever begins to move. Is this too much or not enough?

If I tighten the cable up to almost have no play so that when the throttle is pressed the kickdown lever engages, is this the proper adjustment or do I need to loosen it to allow further opening of the primaries?

HELP! I removed the original linkage because the exhaust rubbed on it and I'm trying to get this cable working.

Thanks,
Tuffbird
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Old 07-23-2001, 12:32 PM
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Ausydad Ausydad is offline
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Not sure what to tell you 'bird. I'm hoping you'll keep us up to date with your progress as I've been having a problem with my kickdown as well. Ever since I put those stupid Hedmans in, my kickdown hits my shifter linkage. I have a floor shifter (factory console) and if I go above 2200RPM, the shifter and kickdown hit popping it into nuetral. This really sucks in L.A. traffic. If the Lokar cable works on yours, maybe. I've also been thinking about a B&M shifter inside my console with a cable feed. Just keep an eye on your trans temp since the kickdown rules fluid pressure as well. What did your local trans shop tell you?
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Old 07-23-2001, 01:12 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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Push the gas pedal to the floor. Adjust the cable, so the kickdown is now all of the way engaged. You are now properly adjusted.
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Old 07-23-2001, 01:22 PM
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Yeah, like Ehostler says, the kickdown lever should be all the way forward at the exact time that the carb reaches all the way open. I have had my Lokar cable adjusted like that for years and have had no problems. Open the carb all the way, have an assistant push the kickdown lever all the way forward, take all the slack out of the cable, and then tighten the set screw. Done!
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Old 07-23-2001, 06:34 PM
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So the kickdown lever is "engaged" when the lever is pointing to the front of the car?

Hmmm...It was my impression that the lever was "engaged" when it was aiming toward the back of the car.

Which way is right? If I remove the spring, it has no internal force pointed forward, and if I move the lever to the back it "springs" forward again.

Do I need to reverse my hold spring to make it point to the back?

This would be opposite of what the bracket was doing.

regards,
Mitch
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Old 07-23-2001, 09:26 PM
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Oops, I meant "back" not "front", my bad!
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Old 07-23-2001, 10:21 PM
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Default Accomplished...

Alrighty then....

The Lokar Cable is working good now. The key is to not follow the adjustment instructions...just everything else.

I did the WOT on the carb and adjusted it to that and it now shifts like I think it should. 1st to 2nd is tight and 2nd to 3rd is around 4500+ rpm with a mid to heavy romp or WOT romp.

Thanks, problem solved.
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2010, 03:03 PM
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New guy here. I have a 727 in my 1970 Rebel Machine and have been having similar issues. I do not have the Lokar cable but, it might as well be the same thing. It's from XZ Motorsports. The problem is shifting into 3rd. It wont shift till about 50-55mph. The trans has a B&M shift kit also.

My trans guy said if the throttle lever on the carb and the kick down lever are not the same length it will not shift properly?

So, what you guys are saying is too put the carb at WOT, and adjust the slack out of the kick down cable and that will be it?

Jake
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Old 11-09-2010, 03:51 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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Your trans guy is correct, the problem with most cable setups is that they don't take into consideration the difference in the travel of the carb lever and the transmission lever. Adjusting the cable at WOT will most often result in late light-throttle upshifts.

Measure the full travel of the carb lever where the cable attaches and redrill the hole in the trans lever as necessary to match the travel. Add a spring at the trans lever to pull the lever full forward at idle.
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Old 11-09-2010, 04:03 PM
70Rebel 70Rebel is offline
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Ok so, measure from the center of the throttle shaft to the center of where the throttle cable mounts on the carb, and match the kick down lever on the trans to that. Drill if needed.
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Old 11-10-2010, 05:35 PM
John Kunkel John Kunkel is offline
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No, forget about the centers, you need to measure the FULL TRAVEL of each and match them.

IOW, measure how much the cable attach point on the carb lever travels from idle to WOT, let's say it's 1 1/2"...then measure the transmission lever travel from full forward to full back, let's say it's 2"...you then need to find the point on the lever that matches the 1 1/2" travel of the carb lever and drill a new cable attach hole.
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