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#1
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1970 Road-Runner 440 2980lbs with the following:
Comp Cam Solid 294 dur .525 lift, 750 Holley Dominator (yes it is a Dominator) TCI Street fighter Converter 4.56 rear-end 29-10-15 Hoosier Slicks Cheetah Shifter w/manual valve body Weld wheels in rear, steel on front Summit drag shocks, stock springs No idea about the heads Car ran an 1/8th mile best of 7.43, and consistantly ran below 7.5. Moroso electric water pump and fan. Original radiator. I have about $1500 to spend this winter. Here are some of my thoughts: I plan to put the Welds on the front, and replace the headers with 2", current 1 3/4 are busted. Also been thinking about replacing the radiator. Maybe head work, or high compression pistons. 4.88 gear would probably be best. The car is all steel but obviously I have cut out alot to get it under 3000 lbs. Car runs 1.54 60 ft, so I just don't think I need the SS springs. Any suggestions on what you would do to get this car closer to 7.0 in an 1/8th and pull the front tires? Any chance the 2" headers would hurt me? Are Hookers worth $100 more than the Hedman? ------------------ |
#2
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C440racer:
Skip the pistons. The reason I say this is the BIG gains are in your heads. Find out what you have and if any work has been done to them. From there you can put the money into them or elsewhere. The gear change will help compaliment the bigger tubes on the headers. Will they hurt? Hard to say. Not sure. You allready know that you'll lose bottom end torque, but gain top end H.P. as a general rule. But you may not. Like I said I'm not sure. I'd say pay the extra money for the Hookers. You'll get others to suggest other headers as well. Skip the radiator if it stays cool,skip the S S springs if you go straight. AS far as lifting the tires, Maybe ladder bars would do the trick, not sure. The Idea has merit I think. |
#3
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So far your car seems to be working well. If your heads have no port/bowl work, then spend some money there. What is your compression ratio? That should answer your piston question. If you think the ring seal is tired, just hone and re-ring, check piston to wall clearance. What does that converter flash/stall at? I know a $800 converter sounds expensive, but an 8" or 9" race converter (not a street strip 10") might be just the ticket if you can hook the tires.
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#4
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Isn't the TCI street fighter converter only about 2,800 stall?
For a race only car with 4.56:1 or 4.88:1 gears you should see some improved times with a smaller 8" or 9" converter. I'm not sure you will see a big difference with 2" headers, but it sounds like the headers you have are shot. If the heads are a unknown, then you may want to pull them and see if they have had larger valve, like 2.14"/1.81" installed, and if they are ported. This would be a good time to cc the heads also. |
#5
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Ok, sounds like the heads need to be looked at. Last year we took out the motor and checked the bearings. The guts looked brand new. This motor was built to race and I checked the static compresion and it shows about 160lbs. The motor had a receipt for $1500 in motor work, but it is not itemized so I have no idea if any thing has been done to the heads. I am going to look into redoing a set of heads. I have 906,452, and 915's to choose from. I will probably leave the set I have alone, and work on a new set.
How will the converter help me? I am launching at 2800-3000 rpm's and the car is holding ok on the line. Like I said, it is running 1.54 range 60 ft times. How will the converter help? What is the flash point of a converter? If I get ported heads, 2" headers, will I need more carb or is a 750 Dominator enough? Thanks for the advice. |
#6
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1.54 is a decent 60 ft,I dont know enough info to really advise(cam,shift point) but heres my opinion,HEADS,not iron either,use MP stage 6($1300pr bare)port these and mill to raise your comp a full point or so,all hp is determined by flow in and flow out,you could easily pick up 70-80 ponies....PRO..
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#7
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I agree with Pro on this one. If you are going to do the heads go with a set of Aluminums. Although I would choose the Indy-SR's. This is were most of your power will come from. On my next motor even though it will be a street motor I will be using either these heads or the set they will have out at that time. If you are truly into big racing and want to go for even more flow go with the Indy 440-1 heads these are opened up for more flow but the SR have better port velocity thats why I would choose those. You can always port aluminum also and get more flow.
Christian ------------------ Http://ThunderRacing.Knudstrup.net/ 68 'Cuda 383 Best of 13.249@103 with a 1.916 60ft (Formula S recreation not original but making like they should have at the factory) Working on adding EFI 69 'Cuda Race Parts Car 76 Duster 273 recent transplant 95 Neon 2.0 SOHC best of 16.96 84 Dodge Ram D50 transplanting 360 |
#8
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Quote:
[This message has been edited by 440 Jim (edited October 24, 2000).] |
#9
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caroliana440racer, our 69 RR weights 2755# ready to run less driver. We replaced all glass with lexan, ladder bar w/ coilovers, tubular k member w/ coilovers, 12 point cage, fiberglass hood and trunk.
Foot braking and leaving @ 3000 rpm the left front comes off ground about 2" and the right stays on ground. 1.43 60' and 6.20 @ 111 1/8mi 9.74 @ 138 1/4mi. When we had SS springs on car it like to twist. Left front off ground about 8" and right off about 3" but that was with a 440ci running 11.06 @ 123 with 1.59 60' See RR69MOPAR in the gallery for picture of car. Reagrds, ------------------ Cameron's Racing Division of GOT NUTZ? MotorSportz 66 Belv 440 auto 10.76 @ 125 69 Road Runner 426 wedge auto 9.74 @ 138 99 Dakota Pro Stock type truck (under construction) 79 Lil Red Express Truck 96 2500 Ram 5.9 99 Durango 5.9 [This message has been edited by Stan Cameron (edited October 24, 2000).] |
#10
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YEAAA stan. Sounds cool.
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