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#1
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A friend of mine just found a 69 Charger RT.
The car has a 440 6-pack, 4-speed. Very little rust, and the guy says it needs to be restored. Everything is factory, and it has 26,000 miles on it. Black with a vinal top. The guy that has the car says he wants $5000 for it. I told him it was a good deal. He wanted to know what the car is worth. The car is also complete. 40Coupe |
#2
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BIG BUCKS RESTORED. BIG BUCKS AS IS. If it's a real 6pak car. The car is worth as much as one is willing to pay for it.
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#3
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$5000 is a phenomenal deal IF:
motor and tranny match the car define "little rust" Having just welded in a new trunk floor and quarter patches on my 70 Charger, "little rust" can be quite a pain or expensive if you have it done. Figure a decent example restored is $15-20k. Really nice with options is around 25K. However, if there are a lot of problems, it is easy to spend more than it's worth restoring. I bought my 70RT/SE for 8k and thought it was a deal, and it still required about 4 or 5 grand to make nice. If it is nice and correct (the seller has no clue on value)beg, borrow, or steal the 5k and get the car TOMORROW. If the seller is informed, well, it may be a basket case. Check it out and let us know. Look in Hemmings Motor News and the Sportscar Market magazine. That will give you an idea on the market. If the car is sound, you or your friend either have an excellent project or can turn it around and double your money in a heartbeat. Take care, Mike |
#4
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I agree with Mike, but I'm also a huge sceptic. Always remember "you get what you pay for." If a guy had a car he KNEW he could get more money for, then why is he selling it to you for less?
I would definitely verify this is a factory six-pack car by checking the VIN, build sheet if available, etc., If the car is truely orginal, then he won't mind if you pull out the back seat to assure the build sheet is still there (and you can then verify if the car came with a six pack and match the engineID# against the # on the block.) If you can't verify this, then all you have a rusty charger with a six-pack carb. That in and of itself is not a bad thing, but if there is any rust visable, there is probably more you can't see. This is especially true with vinyl roofs (I had a 68R/T and a 69SE as well as a '71 Roadrunner, all with vinyl.) Make sure the roof is VERY clean and look carefully for bubbles in the vinyl and around the rear window. take a magnet with you and go over the body carefully to detect bondo. Definitely have it put up on a rack and have the wheels pulled to inspect the brakes and check out the front end. You will need to do this to verify the engine# matching up with the VIN# on the body. FYI, the engine # is on the passenger side of the block where it bolts up to the oil pan. If he won't allow you to take it to an independent mechanic to do this, he may be hiding something. How is the car documented to prove 26K? If he can't prove it to you with receipts, then all you have is a car with 26K SHOWING. Remember, it takes less than 5 minutes to disconnect the speedo. If he isn't the original owner, he can't prove that someone before him didn't disconnect it before he bought it? Finally, what do you want in a car? if you want something pristine? Like Mike said, be prepared to put at least 15K into the car. 15K plus the purchase price would allow you to buy a real nice original minus the rust but with the documentation. Conversely, if you just want something cool to drive around and your budget limits your spending, then the car may be worth it to you even if it is a clone. Whatever the case, good luck! |
#5
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From your descripion if it's a good looking drivable car it's worth 5k even if it's not a six pack car or #'s matching.
I paid 5k for my RT with a clean body, only a short block ready to go, very minor rust, and no transmission. |
#6
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I suppose almost anything is possible but a 1969 Charger R/T SixPack? I highly doubt it. 1970 was the FIRST year for the SixPack in the Charger.
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