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  #1  
Old 08-06-2001, 04:44 PM
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Default Which shift kit am I looking for?

I am after some 1-2 and maybe 2-3 rubber on my built 383/70 Charger. The tranny was rebuilt with a MP "race" rebuild kit, and I have 3.55 gears. I was thinking maybe the ~$50 Transgo Transpak kit. Is this something the typical do-it-yourselfer would attempt on his own? Thanks in advance...

Also I should mention that this car is driven quite a bit around town; are these kits pretty hard on the rest of the drivetrain?
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2001, 04:51 PM
Durango360 Durango360 is offline
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I installed a TransGo shift kit on a 46RE tranny which is similar to the 727 (I assume that's what you have). The installation can take a very long time (6-8 hours) if you do it in your garage with jackstands, but is fairly straight forward. The kit I have comes with a video to outline step-by-step what you need to do.

Here's a great web site with the whole procedure:
http://hometown.aol.com/gnkim/transgo1.html
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Old 08-08-2001, 10:30 AM
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Definitely a do-it-yourself possibility. And the Trans-Go kit is probably the best one all around.

Be aware of the following, however.

1) You will have to permananently alter your valve body and separator plate by drilling a few holes in them. You will need the following tools to complete the application. Drill and a good set of bit under 1/4", also a 5/8" countersink bit will be helpful.

I had to drill a total of 5 holes in mine. 1 hole and one counter sink in the valve body. 3 in the separator plate.

2) When you receive the kit, you will most likely just get a new manual valve and some springs. Doesn't look like much, and I was disappointed at first, but read the instructions thoroughly and you will realize that while it doesn't look impressive, it will probably give you both the results that you desire and some extra tranny longevity in the deal.

3) Might also want to purchase a 4.2 kickdown lever if you don't already have one. TCI has them in stock, and the TransGo kit recommends you use one for optimal performance shifting, but it was not included in my kit. Also, recommended is running a 5 clutch front drum. Five clutches wont fit unless you get the kit from TCI that has a modified pressure plate for just this purpose. Both of these items come relatively cheap. The lever I think was $25 and the kit was $39, not horrible. The modified pressure plate you can make yourself if you have access to a milling machine or something similar. Just stick all the clutches and steels in, then measure the clearance. Subtract that clearance from the recommended clearance and that's how much to mill of the original pressure plate (the really thick steel).

I installed one in about 6 hrs. and I'm not a mechanic, so it is definitely a workable project for the do-it-yourselfer.

As for the drivetrain, don't worry about it. This kit won't have any ill effects on the drivetrain.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-09-2001, 09:45 AM
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Great, thanks for the info, guys. Can you tell me how the kickdown lever is installed? Is it something that is easy to do with the tranny in the car, while I put in the shift kit? If so, I will order one right now. Which one would you recommend?

ps Is this the kit that I have heard mentioned that solves some drainback problem, or is that a larger, more expensive kit?
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Old 08-09-2001, 10:16 AM
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The kit you mentioned is the one that solves the drainback problem. The kit will contain a modified manual valve which, in combination with drilling a countersink hole in the valve body at the location where the manual valve is inserted, will restrict the flow of fluid from that area back to the pan when the vehicle is in park. Side benefit according to the instructions that I got is that you can check the fluid in Park (running and warm of course).

Which kickdown lever are you referring to? The 4.2 that I mentioned in an earlier reply, or the one that is on the linkage between the carb and the trans. I've heard them both called kickdown levers, because they're both involved in a gear kickdown under increased throttle.

The 4.2 lever is the one inside the trans, just under the valve body. If the tranny is in vehicle, it will be very difficult to replace as I believe the tailhousing extension must be removed to pry out the rod that this lever rides on. If the trans is out of the vehicle, it's really easy. The lever end touches the rear servo, and you just take a scribe and pry the rod upward, put the new lever on and go. There will be a number on this lever. Check yours before replacing it as you may already have a sufficient lever. From previous posts, I have found out that the 3.8 works almost as well in achieving performance type shifts. Avoid the 5.0, though. Kit instructions will tell you why.
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Old 08-09-2001, 11:18 AM
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Well, I was planning on doing this with the tranny in the car, so I will probably leave in my stock lever. Do you know what the factory ratio was on a 1970 Charger 383 Magnum?
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Old 08-09-2001, 02:23 PM
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No, but it's real simple to find out once the valve body is off. Just look at both sides of the lever. One side will have the ratio stamped into it.

I've pulled about 8 trannies, mostly out of vans since I'm a van guy (see my signature) and they're usually either 2.9 or 3.2. This lever is responsible mostly for the firmness of the 2-3 shift and being a performance type vehicle, my guess (educated but definitely not positive), would be that you would be somewhere in the 3s. If it is 3.5 or better, I wouldn't trip on changing it, but if it was less than that, and you are really concerned about your 2-3 shift firmness, I would consider doing the extra work.

Speaking of shift firmness, it's the oldest trick in the book, but remember to remove your accumulator spring when you pull off the valve body. This also does a good deal for your shift firmness in all gears. The TransGo instructions will tell you another good way to get shift firmness is to increase the line pressure adjustment on the valve body. Do that, it works. Instructions are provided w/ kit.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-09-2001, 03:36 PM
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Wow, thanks. I sure appreciate all of your input!
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2001, 03:38 PM
wedge440 wedge440 is offline
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I`ve tried the trans-go kits and I`ll never use one again.....
I installed it in a small block 727 and it would lock up the trans going from 1st to 2nd.......No one at trans-go could agree on what the problem was (i was talking with 3 of them at 1 time)

I got another valve body and installed a Fairbanks shift kit in it..
Its still running after 3 years of service and still chirps the tires in every gear...
Just my $.02
Joe
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2001, 01:20 AM
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Wow, i just realized what an idiot I am. I looked again at my order; I ordered a B&M Transpak kit. Are these pretty much the same? Also, I was wondering which mode to set it to, high performance street or full competition. I want some rubber when I shift, but will my wife complain of neck pain after ten minutes with the full competition mode?
I suppose that drain-back issue/fluid check in park feature is not part of the B&M kit? (not that it has really been a problem)
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2001, 09:28 AM
Dart_340_Swinger Dart_340_Swinger is offline
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to tell you the truth, we put a B+M trans pack in a buddy's 350turbo Chivey! That thing was a monster!!!! It was full comp and yes it would snap your neck if wern't for racing buckets! ?I guess street would be applicable for your appliciation! Before the trnas pack the chivey would cherp gears, after the B+M if was slammin gears and breakin the tires loose, we got that solved by throwing slicks on the rear, hooked crazy!
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2001, 11:12 AM
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The B&M kit, I think. That one is just a new separator plate, right? Or am I thinking about something else.

In other posts, (many lost from the server crash) people complained of burning out their clutches after a relatively short period of time (1 yr) using that kit. Put they also said exactly what Dart_340_Swinger above says, namely it does work really good.

My 2 cents.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2001, 12:13 PM
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I think they have a shift kit for about 25 bucks; I ordered the transpak, which is 52 buck. Supposed to give you "full manual control" among other things. Three stages, RV, full performance street, and full competition. I am wondering if I should send it back and get a Transgo kit? If I keep it, I wonder which level to set it at?
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2001, 12:29 PM
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I would post separate from this post and ask what people think of the B&M TransPak specifically, and if they've had those problems, as I haven't personally run this kit.

Full manual control is good if you want to bang gears with an automatic. The TransGo level 1, which is the one I installed will NOT give you this. For that you have to get a level 2 full reprogramming kit, I think. About $75 as opposed to ~$40 for the level 1 here in San Jose, probably cheaper where you are.

Beyond that, I don't know enough about what type of modifications the B&M kit makes to your trans to give my opinion on whether I think it will affect its longevity. Sorry.

But after reading the instructions for my TransGo kit, I felt very confident that not only would I get the performance I desired, but also increased transmission life, which is important to me, because I don't plan on ripping it out every year or 2 like some hardcore racer guys.

There's a guy who post on this board periodically with the handle Transfixleo. He used to work for the founder of TransGo and knows EVERYTHING there is to know about the TransGo line of shift kits for the TF. Address a post to him and he will probably answer with a lot better information than I've got. He may even be able to tell you why the B&M kit may cause problems (???).

Hope this helps.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2001, 12:41 PM
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68ChargerRT 68ChargerRT is offline
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Exclamation Kickdown Lever

I installed the 5.0 ratio Kickdown lever in my 727 and you will have to drop the tranny to replace it. There is an allen head bolt behind the torque convertor that has to be removed to slide the kickdown lever pivot shaft out. Once the pivot shaft is removed, its only a matter of switching the kickdown levers.
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