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  #1  
Old 08-14-2001, 11:39 PM
Thunderhead Thunderhead is offline
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Unhappy 8-3/4 Outer Axle Bearing...HELP!

I have a real problem with my 8-3/4. I started to hear a sound coming from the passenger side of the car. It sounded like a tire out of balance. So I jacked up the car and the tire checked out OK. I pulled on the tire and about a it moved outward about a 1/4 inch !!! OK, I know I have to replace the bearing, thats a given. The question I have is I have heard about "preload" on the bearing on that side. How do I adjust this or is it something the shop that will press the bearing will do??? PLEASEEEEEEE...I need a quick reply, this is my only car! I drive it everyday 60 miles roundtrip on the interstate at 75mph. HELP!?!?!?!?! My car BTW, is a 65 Fury. Thanks.
Thunderhead
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Old 08-15-2001, 02:20 AM
Mach Manny Mach Manny is offline
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i've only heard of preload on pinion bearings, not axle bearings. that's because there's adjustable force on these bearings, but i cant picture preload on a shaft bearing....

http://www.hotrideornot.com/cgi-bin/...de.cgi?sid=336
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Old 08-15-2001, 06:26 AM
jensen32000 jensen32000 is offline
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As I recall, you have to adjust the collar to give .008 to .010" end play. Make sure you have both wheels off the ground.
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Old 08-15-2001, 02:22 PM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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You will have to set bearing preload (endplay) yourself.

It's fairly straightforward. One side of your axle carrier will have a thread adjuster. Turning it moves that axle horizontally. The end of that axle (where the splines are) slides into your pumpkin, which has a cylindrical spool in the middle. As you turn the adjuster, the spool gets closer to the splined end of the OTHER (non-adjuster side) axle, pushing it toward the retainer plate at the axle housing non-adjuster end. The endplay is just the space between the bearing on the non-adjuster side and the retainer plate. The adjuster should be turned (clockwise, I think) until the aforementioned space equals between .008" - .010". Best way to measure, IMO, is with axle installed and wheel off, set up dial indicator perpendicular to end of axle hub, then pull and see how far the dial moves. When the dial moves .008" - .010", you're back on the Interstate.
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Old 08-15-2001, 04:24 PM
Jims451 Jims451 is offline
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If the bearings are OK you can adjust the axles with the passenger side adjuster, but 1/4" is alot of play and most people don't know the axles need to be pulled to lube the bearings.
If you pull the axles (a simple job) and take them to a parts shop they can install the new bearings, seal and coller for a fraction of the cost of having a Auto repair shop do all the work.
You will also want to replace the seal inside the axle tubes while the axles are out.

I like the stock replacement type tapered bearings, but there is a "green" ball bearing setup that can be installed that is supposed to not need any adjustment.
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Old 08-15-2001, 04:34 PM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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Yeah, the Green bearing setup is nice. I have it on my 8 3/4. One thing to watch out for if you decide to upgrade to the Greens is the spool spacer inside the pumpkin usually has to be removed to run Green bearings. This requires pulling the pumpkin to get the spacer out. It will be VERY obvious if your spacer needs to be removed. You will try to put your axles back on and they won't fit into the housing. I sat there like an idiot for about an hour pressing one axle in and watching the other one pop out, wondering what the he!! the problem was.
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Old 08-15-2001, 07:10 PM
JCFcuda JCFcuda is offline
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I beleave that pin is only on the (clutch) track-lock, and not the later unit Aurburn (cone) unit.
Jim
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Old 08-16-2001, 10:34 AM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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Actually that pin is in the new Auburn units as well. I have an Auburn unit and had the problem I described above. As I remember it, a70duster was one of the guys who helped me out when I posted with the axles not fitting problem. Thunderhead, that post may still be in the archives, so you can have a laugh at my expense.
And as a side note, the pin in the newer Auburn units is not removed as it is in the older cone-type OE units. The older units will split in half once you drive that pin out, the Auburn unit is a one piece casting and there is a screw instead of a pin holding the rod on which that spool rides in place. www.auburngear.com has some good diagrams although no instructions on how to take that sucker out.
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