Daily driven Dart into 12's?

[swinger340]

I want to know what I need to get my daily driven 70 Dart into the 12's. I'm buying a 69' 340 w/4 speed. I'm already running 4.30 gears, headers, super coil? (the yellow one), relocated springs, relocated battery, and 3-way drag shocks all around. I am thinking about the hughes 3038AL or 3844AL. Otherwise the MP292/.508 The MP is cheaper as lifters are included, but I've heard great things about the hughes. Reccomended Tires? Carb? Intake? Frame ties needed? I can not afford to get my heads professionally ported, I'll attempt to clean them up myself. I'm a college kid on a strict budget. It will mostly see street racing, as we have no track. I know what the fastest local imports run in the 1/4,~13.1, thats why I want to get into the 12's. Right now I have a basically stock 74' 318 that runs low 15's, high 14's. Thanks.

[340king]

I would look into some of the previously published Mopar Performance catalogs for that info. They have recommended setups that seem to be pretty close. Look at what they suggest and compare it to what you have. Then try to get to what they suggest with the least expenditure of cash. I think you should not have any problems getting there, if you run race gas, good tires and tune for it at the track.

[Comp Chassis]

I built a daily driver for my wife very similar to what you are wanting to do.

Hers is a 69 Swinger that I put a 360 in with X heads that I mildly ported myself with 11/32 stainless valves. It has headers, a comp 507/288 solid cam, strip dominator, 750 double pump, 3500 converter, 727 trans, 4.30 gears and car has been mini tubbed and the rear housing narrowed some. It has run a best ET of 12.53 on ET street tires and is driven to the track and she drives it 2 to 3 times a week to work.

[DusterDave]

Nothing will get you into the 12's quicker than a "throttle in a bottle". But, I can appreciate the fact that you probably want to get there on engine alone. The combo that CompChassis sounds good, and it obviously works. Having a 4-speed will help alot. Also, lightening the car will help you go faster. If running a bench seat,for example, replacing it with plastic buckets will save about 80 lbs. for about 100 bucks. Frame connectors, 3-way adjustable front shocks, battery in the trunk, and the largest, stickest tires you can fit in the back will also help.

------------------
www.mindspring.com/~dusterdave

[This message has been edited by DusterDave (edited November 02, 2000).]

[montrose ram]

I think you already know your stock 340 will only get you in the 13s. I would go with the Hughes cam with around .550 lift 245 @ .050 lift. Use race gas= 12 to 1 comp. ratio. For tire I highly recomend Hoosier Quick Time PROs! !0 in. if possible. Also look at Cal-Trac www.calvertracing.com so you can hook-up hard! COMP gave you good advice on manifold/carb. combo. Gotta be a double pumper! Demons are killer--a few xtra $$, tho. Sorry, if all this is adding up..$$$!! But to go fast does cost xtra bucks! Yes, the bottle will get you there at a fraction of the costs. It's your call..

------------------

[This message has been edited by montrose ram (edited November 03, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by montrose ram (edited November 03, 2000).]

[70 charger R/T]

I don't think you need "RACE GAS" to get 12's
With a 4 spd and 4.30 gears so forget the 12 to 1 CR try 10.5 to 1 tops
Lose a little weight and a mild build 340 should have no problem with 12's.
Screw that expensive gas
Just my .02

[rumblefish360]

I agree! 9.5 iron, 10.5 alum. head comp. ratio is all you need. Race gas is hard to find at the pump.
Look to mom MoPar for hints to get there.

[montrose ram]

Yeah, you guys are proably right. I was thinking low, low 12s. For high 12s a lower compression/smaller cam should get him there. But if his goal is to spank those ricers real good so they wont have any room to cry--I would build that 340 on the MEAN side! True, it would cease to be a "daily driver" but it WOULD be a daily rice-boy killer!

------------------

[rumblefish360]

That low rear axle atio and a "Duster Dave, "throttle in a bottle" trick will get you there. And quick!
Your on track. Don't give up. What eng. are you doing? 318 or 340?

[swinger340]

I will be building the 340. I do not want to rely on nitrous alone, but I have access to race gas 24/7, but I will only use it when street racing. What are advantages to using a solid cam? what do i need to do to get one to run correctly? adjustible valvtrain? will 273 stuff work okay? all help is appreciated

[montrose ram]

Hydralic cam design has evolved to where they're as good as a solid cam--up to a point! I'm no expert in the physics or geometry of cam design but generally speaking when you get into high lift-- .550 and above and long duration-- 250 @ .050 lift and beyond a solid cam will be more efficient at high RPM-- 6500 and above. ( less chance of valve "float", for example) They ARE noisier and require adjusment now and then. But racers are usually willing to put up with this minor inconvenence for the insurance of a valve not "kissing" a piston at 6 or 7 grand! I dont think the 273 pieces will work for the lift you will be running, however. You will want some good roller adj. rockers designed for the larger springs you will be running. With my 440(alluminum head) 10 to 1 (wish now I put 12 to 1 flat tops in) I can run 93 but for racing I run a 50/50 mix or better of torco 110. I dont have nitrous, either--yet! But you should'nt need it to stomp those rice crispies!

------------------

But, you may want it some day to spank the occasional Cumerror or Pusstang that is foolish enuff to challenge you. And you KNOW they will hose you if you dont spray them first!!

[This message has been edited by montrose ram (edited November 06, 2000).]

[rumblefish360]

The mech.cam will give better top end power. You'll need adjustable rockers. Rollers are best. And the most $$$.
Degree in the cam. Take your time installing the cam.
The 273 eng. parts, (heads) are to small in there port size. This would hurt performance. If it has mech valve gear, ( the 273) its fine to use with the other head. (340/360 head)

[Scott Brown]

The key to having a fast driver, is to keep your head on straight about the combination. Good solid parts and lots of tuning are the key.
For compression ratio, use about 9.5 to 1. High compression makes power, but buying race gas sucks for a driver. I would make sure the heads are well ported, whether you do them yourself or send them out. The gains are very good, with no downsides other than cost. For street / strip duty the Performer RPM works well. maintains great driveabilty, as well as running well upstairs. A Comp XE274 cam would fit the bill nicely, with 230/236 on a 110. Top it off with a 750 holley, and a good exhaust system, and go have some fun.

Scott Brown
Straightline Performance
www.racemufflers.com
517-381-8801

[340king]

I want to clarify a few things. First, go to the track with a stock 340, put the total timing at 36° total and take pieces back to the garage. You can not run 10.5:1 on 91 low lead without damage. Race gas can be purchased for less than $4.00 per gallon that will work for this application. One engine problem trying to run low octane fuel will wipe out several years of fuel costs.

Second, if you hook it up, and you will have to to run into the 12's, it will load the engine. This again requires good fuel.

Finally, if being consistent is of any interest, then I recommend a race fuel that is designed for an engine like the one you are planning to run. VP makes fuels for about any type of engine and compression ratio desired. Bracket racing is all about consistency, get consistent fuel

[PRO]

swing340,sounds like you have everything as far as bolt ons except a pinion snubber,internally I'd use lightweight pistons,JE or Arias,or KB's if $ matter,main studs,hd rod bolts & windage tray,rebalance of course,run a true 9.7:1 w/these pistons & iron heads or 10.5:1 w/alum heads,I like around 520 lift & 240* of duration @ .050 w/9.5:1 w/a 4 spd & deep gears,or 249* & 570 lift w/10.5:1,main thing here is to port the heads,Hughes will stage 1 port for $850,I like the edelbrock alum heads by far around $1350 w/head bolts,12s will be no prob,12.0s should be a cake walk......PRO....

[Christopher]

I'd use the Mopar 284/484 cam or the 292/508.750 Holley and a single plane intake.A Holley strip dominator intake can be found on the used parts market cheap.If this is a 69 engine,92 octane won't work as the static compressin is too high for pump gas.I know you didn't ask but...I will express my opinion about street racing...I'm not for it,it puts a black eye on those of us who actually go to a sanctioned race track,and it gives real drag racing a bad name.Are you sure there isn't a race track in your area?? Just my humble opinion.

[montrose ram]

C'mon, Chris, you've never done it? Dont think it reflects on those fortunate enuff to have a local strip. BUT..it will reflect on your driving record/insurance etc. if you get busted! Also, they can and will impound your car! I think, on the other hand, street racing--if done with EXTREME caution is and will always be the heart and soul of drag racing--just my opinion. Hey, Chris, maybe you should read the Street Warrior Forum once and a while

------------------