SS leafs, what are they good for?

[JariV]

Hi,

what is generally considered the performance "end" of SS leaf springs in the quartermile? When does one REALLY need another kinda setup? What I have understood that they are working within 9s but if 8s are are the goal then one should loose the SSs.

Please tell me what you think or know.

BRs,

[prostock]

My buddy's 64 Fury is running 9.70's on them, but he thinks they are about at their limit.

[DartGT66]

According to the MP chassis manual, 9.50 or quicker; coil over link, 9.5-10.5 auto; SS springs, 9.5-10.5 manual; coil over link, 10.5-11.5 auto; SS springs, 10.5-11.5 manual; stand off either type, 11.50 or slower all SS springs. Remembere that these recommendations are usually with unlimited tires. For example in my car the SS-springs do not work, with less power they did but not with the current set up. There are better leaf springs available from Tri City Competition and Landrum and several traction devices to be used with them. However, they are a compromise and if coil overs and four links are allowed, they are usually used too. And that will be the case with my car too before t sees the track next time.

[JERICOGTX]

Scrap metal If you are building a race car, don't waste any money on the leaf springs, unless the rules say you have to run them. Throw a set of ladder bars on the car and make it hook like it should right away.

[kamstra]

I heard the same thing. I was going to buy some ss springs for my Cuda but was told that the Stock springs would be just as good.
?anyone challenge this statement?
What benefit would be achieved by using ss springs versus stock with a pinion snubber or traction bars

[Steve1118]

S/S springs are a significant improvement over stockers - provided the rest of the set-up is right. The shorter front segment and the rate allow the car to "work" much better than with a stock setup. However, we have been racing S/S spring cars for over thirty years, and have found the ten flat area to be about the limit of their effectiveness. In mid ten second cars we have found that the S/S springs are very forgiving on a bad track, whereas ladder bars work much better on a good track, but can drive you nuts on a marginal surface.

Traction bars are a no-no on any MoPar, they will only take away the ability of the springs to work. They were designed basically for GM cars, which used a single leaf spring and were very prone to wind up and wheel hop. Head for a swap meet and make some money on the traction bars.

Snubbers work very well in limiting the movement of the front segment. However, care must be taken. We have found that with a hard hooking car and a lot of power there are times the car will want to "pivot" on the snubber and can be tough to handle.

[Leigh]

Since it's not uncommon to see a margin of win/lose by a few thousands anymore, a high horsepower car will alway be more consistant with a properly dialed in ladder bar or 4 link. My car would package .010 almost always in the mid to low 11's with the 002 and 003 springs. I won a ton of rounds. Drop a 600+ motor in, and well, all heck broke loose. If you want to win going 10.70 and quicker, go to the ladder or 4 link. If you want to collect a pile of losing time slips, be my guest. I found that lower ladder bar settings will allow me to drag the bumper on ANY track around here. Ain't that right Jericogtx? By the way, I'm heading to your Uncle Al's race track this weekend, you or Monte or Zane or Mike going?

[JERICOGTX]

Leaf springs are for street cars!
Leigh, we ended up going to Thunder Valley in Marion SD. Mike broke his 8 3/4. 10.70's and a heavy car do not go well with a 8 3/4.

[JERICOGTX]

BTW for whoever is interested that is Leigh's wheelstanding Dart. Showing us Big Block guys to the far end of the track in a small block screamer!

[71 scamp]

Awesome!!!

[Billydelrio]

I have been trying for 5 years to get my 273 Dart to do that! Just how big of a small block does it take?

Billy