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  #1  
Old 08-28-2001, 07:17 AM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Calera, Al
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Thumbs down Dissapointed-maybe I expected to much!

last wed. I left for the races at Bristol from B'ham pulling my new 30' Jayco and a bed full of gear and was very dissapointed with my pulling power, the camper full should weigh no more than 6500 and a few hundred in the bed, I could cruise at 75 pretty easy but the hills really slowed it down more than I thought it should, down to 50 sometimes. am I expecting to much out of 95 auto with 160K. and I was only getting about 11.5mpg. then to top it off sunday on my way home just south of Knoxville a blade came off the fan and put a hole in the radiator, fortunately a man stopped and offered to let me park at his house just at the next exit, he had power hook up and water, had to stay till monday morning then have the truck towed to a radiator shop in Knoxville where I pulled out the radiator and they fixed it and had the Dodge dealer deliver a new fan to me. So all in all the trip home was not to good.
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  #2  
Old 08-28-2001, 09:03 AM
BIG RED MACHINE BIG RED MACHINE is offline
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Sounds to me like you got a power problem,,I'd say the milage you got with the load you stated is off a little,,Time for deisel basics 101 here,,I know you just got the truck so refresh my memory,is the truck a 4.10 rear or 3.54??,,When was the last overhead run(valve adjustment)?,,Are the fuel and air filters new??,,Have you checked all intercooler connections for leaks??,,Look at exhaust manifold to see if you have any exhaust gaskets not pushed out from heat(most 12 valves will do it from time to time),,Check the fuel return line off the pump,it will dryrot and crack allowing air into fuel system,,Another idea is look at your lift pump and see if the primer boot has any signs of fuel seeping around the boot,and you may want to get under the truck to move the rubber cover because I've seen them leak inside and never show it outside till later,allowing air in the fuel system killing HP(prostock had a bad lift pump and ask him how it affected his power),,While under the truck look for the pre-filter bowl,there is a small nut on it remove the bolt and drop the bowl and clean the screen inside(or got to Ma Mopar and replace it)chances are it was never done as most are neglected,,One last item here,use a QUALITY fuel filter like Fleetguards or Mopars,do not settle for any others too many problems with the others that are well documented and not worth the risk,,You'll notice a difference in the truck with the Fleetguard(Cummins Brand) over the Mopar for sure,,Myself I use only Fleetguard only,,Listen as I said before you need a baseline to go on and we'll get it straightened out just be patient,one step at a time,,Check all this I have gave you and when i return from Phoenix,AZ on Saturday I'll look the post over or PM me and we'll go rom there,,That truck has the potential to make you very happy and sounds to me like previous owner was lacking in maintence,,I'll pm you a number to call me to see if I can help,,REAL TRUCKS RATTLE....
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  #3  
Old 08-28-2001, 09:19 AM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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the truck has the 3:54's and I have replaced the lift pump and had the overhead ran 2 weeks ago, also replaced the wastegate actuator and can not find any leaking lines (from the turbo and fuel) I had a leak at one time where the pressure regulator is on the return line but replaced the seals or brass washers and fixed that, I have not cleaned the bowl out yet and I'm running NAPA brand fuel filter.
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  #4  
Old 08-30-2001, 01:48 AM
Fest3er Fest3er is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NASCARfansCJWW
the truck has the 3:54's and I have replaced the lift pump and had the overhead ran 2 weeks ago, ...
The only other thing I could suggest is have the injection pump spill-port timed. With that many miles, it can't hurt. I had my '98 done recently at 95K miles; it did make a slightly noticeable difference.

Fest3er
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  #5  
Old 08-30-2001, 01:45 PM
Todd G Todd G is offline
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First thing I would do is add boost and exhaust-temp guages. Then slam the fuel plate all the way forward. Also slide the AFC housing all the way forward. This should get you a big increase in power without hurtin' a thing( OK maybe more smoke ). On my '95, the catalytic convertor was clogged. I accidently removed all the stuff inside it. That helped more. It is a wicked road we travel in the search for horsepower! Let me know if you need more. This is just the beginning.
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  #6  
Old 08-30-2001, 02:56 PM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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I know this is going to sound stupid but are there any publications or manuals on these injector pumps so a novice like me can move the plate and afc housing? I'm a very good shade tree mechanic and a quick study, but my lack of expierence with these things makes me ignorant of the basics. I have no doubt that I can do it, I'm just clueless right now, thanks, Chris..................
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  #7  
Old 08-30-2001, 03:10 PM
Todd G Todd G is offline
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Here's a good place to start:

http://www.tstproducts.com/power_install.html
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  #8  
Old 08-30-2001, 03:13 PM
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prostock prostock is offline
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TST has the install instructions for their plate on their website. www.tstproducts.com

Another great resource is www.turbodieselregister.com although you have to be a member to post.

Maybe have the fuel pressure checked. BRM is correct about my lift pump. It still pumped fuel, but was out of spec under load.
My truck's still not the most powerful thing in the world, but is much better with the new pump.
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  #9  
Old 08-31-2001, 07:41 AM
NASCARfansCJWW NASCARfansCJWW is offline
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an observation and a question, I noticed that there is no break off screw on my cover only 2 8mm bolts on bottom and 2 flat head screws on top so some one has been in this one before, the question is between the afc housing and the infector pump there is a horizontal bolt that has thin slotted plate behind it that looks as if it could be loosened and the plate slide back and forth, what is this for? also a couple more questions, after removing the cover to slide the plate forward just loosen the 2 screws and slide it forward is it that simple? and the same for the cover? and what would happen if I blocked off the pressure line to the wastegate actuator to make more boost? or can I restrict it to just make a little more boost? thanks..................
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  #10  
Old 08-31-2001, 06:04 PM
Todd G Todd G is offline
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I don't know about the first thing you questioned. On the plate, yeah, just slide it forward. Guages at this point are a must to control exhaust temps. Sliding the AFC housing forward will give more fuel at low boost and big smoke if you don't have a controlled right foot. I have a boost fitting that is on the line to the turbo. It has a allen head screw that I can adjust for more boost. I think it is about maxed out, about the same as plugging the line completely. I can peg my 30psi boost guage in a heartbeat. Guess I'll have to get a different guage.
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