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  #1  
Old 08-28-2001, 04:23 PM
BigBlockBabe BigBlockBabe is offline
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Question 440 crank

I'm considering purchasing a crank from a 74 440, and sticking it in my 65 383. However, since the crank is externally balanced I'm wondering what I would have to do to make it work with my engine?
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Old 08-28-2001, 06:15 PM
WS23 WS23 is offline
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Babe, the balancing isn't your only issue. Sounds like you are wanting to go the stroker route & join those 451 boys! You know that you just don't drop in a RB crank into a B block. The bearing journal sizes are different between the 2 cranks as well as the stroke, requiring machine work & different rod/piston configuration, etc. It is actually a pretty good project but you will need to do your homework. There is quite a bit to this endeavor and it isn't cheap. Unless you must have the sleeper look (oh gee, it's only a 383!) under the hood, you may find it cheaper to just start with a 440.

I will try to dig up some complete articles for your reference & either tell you where to find them or worst case (more work for me) I could probably fax them to you. In the mean time there are a number of sharp guys out here that have taken on this project & can give you the advice you need. Maybe they already have the reference material available for you.
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Old 08-28-2001, 06:55 PM
BigBlockBabe BigBlockBabe is offline
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Here's the deal. I expect that the 383 I have now will need to be rebuilt (since it has never been rebuilt and I'm putting a lot of miles on it) and so I am collecting stuff as the opportunity arises with that in mind. So far though I only have 906 heads.

I was thinking of doing a stroker, but you make a good point about the 440 being cheaper to build up (or so I've heard). I could just wear out the 383 and put in a 440 at that point. Is the 74 a good year for the 440?
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Old 08-28-2001, 07:43 PM
WS23 WS23 is offline
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On 440's I prefer the 72 & earlier engines. The reason is that these come with a forged steel crank as opposed to the cast crank found on later years. Forged steel cranks are known to endure higher abuse. Also the later year blocks are know as "thin wall" castings, where as they should not be bored more than 30 over. So that typically means one rebuild. The earlier engines can be safely bored to 50 & even 60 thousandths with confirmation by sonic testing.

Don't get me wrong Babe, there is nothing wrong with using a 74 engine. If you plan on street driving with occasional abuse, then it will serve you well. Cast cranks can easily survive in 6000 RPM conditions. But if you hammer it every opportunity you get, drive it like you stole it, and race it down the 1/4 mile, then pay the insurance & get a thick wall steel crank engine.
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Old 08-28-2001, 11:49 PM
BigBlockBabe BigBlockBabe is offline
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Thanks WS23 for the great info and advice!
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2001, 12:07 AM
Doug Wilson Doug Wilson is offline
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Default 440 Crank - ATTN: WS23

Forgive me, but I believe I saw an article in the last year where the magazine actually went out and sonic tested something like 20 or 30 big blocks, and found no wall thickness difference in any of the years. If you are interested, I'll see if I can hunt it down. I have a 0.060 over '68 block, and my sonic check says I COULD go another 0.030. I know everyone says you can't, but facts is facts.
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Old 08-29-2001, 01:45 PM
451boy 451boy is offline
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Article was in April 2001 Mopar Action. I wrote that article so I remember the issue well!

Basically any Mopar big block is potentially a thin wall or a thick wall block. Mopar quality control was (and maybe still is) lousy. The early blocks that we tested were actually thinner on average than the later blocks, but they tended to be cast from a slightly harder grade of cast iron.

Visit my web site at www.ARengineering.com for more info. There is also some 451 information posted on the site which will give you the details on building a stroker.

Good luck with your project. A 383 with a 440 crank makes a 431 motor that really goes. Not quite as nice as a 451, but it will make some serious power and it will look stock.
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