what year 440 do i have???????

[mr-dually]

i just bought a 440 yesterday. but, i don't know what year
it is. i was told a 69, then when i picked it up today his buddy
said it came out of a 74 newport.
i don't have my codes handy so i hope one of you do.
4006630-440-8

[CL440]

FACING THE FRONT OF THE BLOCK , THERE IS A FLAT I.D. BOSS ON TOP ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE(OPPOSITE THE DISTRIBUTER) IT SHOULD BE STAMPED WITH SOME #'S ie. G 440 WHICH STANDS FOR 1971 440 THERE MAY ALSO BE SOME OTHER LETTERS, #'S OR SYMBOLS. STARTING IN 1965 WITH THE LETTER -A- 440'S HAD LETTERS TO I.D THERE BLOCK YEARS, I BELEIVE (IM SURE SOMEONE WILL CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG) THAT THEY SKIPPED USING -I- AND J AND WENT STRAIGHT TO K IN 1973.
I COULD BE WRONG ON THAT LAST STATEMENT? IF SOMEONE KNOWS FOR SURE PLEASE CHIME IN!!


ANY WHO, WHAT IS STAMPED ON YOUR BLOCK?

[Mr. Trans Am]

keep in mind that a 440 block is a 440 block. Not really any better than the others. The so called thin block 76-78 have less nickel or something(there was a mag article last year) but would be just fine in most any application. The most important thing is that it hasn't been punched a bunch. Haven't seen/heard of very many cracking.

[Doug Wilson]

My 440s have the actual date that the block was made cast on the side of the block, as in "11 05 68". I thought they all did. Am I incorrect?

[amoparguy]

The date code should be right above the casting number. My sources say that it's a '78 440 block. I'm putting together a website with this type of information, here's a link...

http://www.geocities.com/musclemopars/brbblock.htm

I'm shooting for total accuracy on my site so if you see any errors please let me know. Thanks...

[mr-dually]

i not sure if this means anything but the exhaust manifolds
have an April 68 date code. the motor looks to be all original
including carb, alt, and a/c.

[kekoakeakane]

The manifolds could have been put on later. I agree that you probably have a 76-78 block (Same as I do) and the date should also be cast right above the casting number (Like mine is). I have yet to see the numbers on the ubiquitous pad on the front of the block since a previous owner decided to paint right over that. I haven't gotten around to sanding down the paint to figure it out.

[Dr. Mopar]

Doug is right the blocks have a date cast in the right side of the block where the soft plugs are, it should be like 09-12-68, which means the block was cast Sept. 12 1968 get the idea.

[mr-dually]

here's what i got off the ID pad next to dist.

7T 440 FH

6 28 +X


it was built on june 28 but the 7T is confusing me.

i'm off to find it on side off block

[JIM ROGGOW]

I HAVE A 1970 440- WHICH IS F-440, SO IF A 74- IT SHOULD BE A J OR K-440!

[451boy]

7T440 is a 1977 model year. T is the engine plant, Trenton. I don't know what a + is. Is that a maltese cross? If it is a maltese cross then the crank is 0.001 undersize. Maltese cross plus an X means it is 0.010 undersize.

[satellite66]

It looks like you have a 77 440 made in Trenton. Thats what the T is after the 7. It also is probably EH not FH. E is cast crank and H is 4bbl. +X I believe means oversize valve guides.

[mr-dually]

thanks everyone for your help

451boy you are exactly right, i finally got to the cast
build date.. had to dig thru alot of grease and the
manifold made it difficult. but it does say it is a '77.

yes it was a maltese cross.

i finally found my code book also.

thanks again guys.

now what to do. has anyone built this into a street
motor? have you broke anything? i hear the cast crank
is still pretty strong, esp for the street. how about
the rods? any suggestions would be great.

[Dr. Mopar]

Originally posted by mr-dually
thanks everyone for your help

451boy you are exactly right, i finally got to the cast
build date.. had to dig thru alot of grease and the
manifold made it difficult. but it does say it is a '77.

yes it was a maltese cross.

i finally found my code book also.

thanks again guys.

now what to do. has anyone built this into a street
motor? have you broke anything? i hear the cast crank
is still pretty strong, esp for the street. how about
the rods? any suggestions would be great.

Mr dually the cast crank motors are great as long as you stay under 600 H.P.and 6500 rpm. I have several I have built that are raced each week.If you need help contact me. Tothperformance@csonline.net

[BILL THOMPSON]

If you look on the front of the motor near the drivers side in front of the intake you'll find the date in a letter code also there should be an actual date on the pass side of the block.

[Doug Wilson]

Before anyone can make specific recommendations, we need to know some things: 1) What car or truck are you putting it in - need to estimate the weight you'll be hauling 2) How will it be used - race only, street/strip, street only(handling on twisty curvys important?), 4 wheeling, towing, 3) Will you be driving it every day? - How many miles a year? 4) Keeping it a long time or just a quick toy for awhile.....I've probably missed a bunch of imprtant questions, but tell us as much as you can..........I KKNOW you will get plenty of advice!!!

[mr-dually]

ok, its going into a 79 1 ton dually 4x4. automatic, PS, PB,
4.10 gears. will be daily driven. occasional towing.
minor off roading. i have access to hedman hedders or
manifolds. curb weight is 5000+.