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  #1  
Old 09-04-2001, 12:53 PM
BIG_MARDY@HOTMA BIG_MARDY@HOTMA is offline
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Angry It won't starttttt!

Yesterday I had started my 68 Dodge Polara because I had put on some new valve cover and I wanted to see if it would leak or not. So I kept it on for about 20+ minutes. Revving the engine a bit. So I turned it off and tried to turn it back on and it would do anything. The light came on and the gauges started to rise up like normal but no click. I checked the relay and the starter they work so I think it could be a electric problem. But a guy once told me that the ballast resistors on his car may just die and he has to replace them. So could it be my Resistor or maybe something else?


Thanks
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2001, 03:15 PM
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dusterbd dusterbd is offline
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check the resistor first, as the old style do have a tendancy to go out whenevetr the mood strikes them. next, check for loose connections between the ignitions switch and the starter. if you see any obvious problems, fix them. if that shows nothing, check the relay on the fenderwell, by trying the old "bypass it with a screwdriver trick. if that works, you have a bad solenoid. if it doesnt, bigger problems. good luck.
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2001, 05:55 PM
last426 last426 is offline
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Just clean up your filthy dirty battery terminals and it will go, go, go, guuaaarenteeeed!
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2001, 05:56 PM
moparots moparots is offline
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Sounds like the ole balast resistor, Dusterbd is right on.
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2001, 09:09 PM
CL440 CL440 is offline
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IF ITS THE BALLAST RES. IT SHOULD STILL CRANK, JUST NO SPARK, CHECK THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH AT THE TRANNY IF THE OTHER SUGGESTION FAIL TO GIVE RESULTS.
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2001, 09:19 PM
jcarter64 jcarter64 is offline
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If it's the ballast resistor than the motor will crank over and over and try to start as long as you are holding the key in the start position. As soon as you let the key go back to the normal run position then it will quit. How did you check the starter and relay? I have seen even a volt meter test of wire going to the starter that read 12 volts and everything else was good and actualy the wire was bad inside from the battery to the starter and as I said it read 12 volts but no current would go thru it under load. I took off the battery wire to the starter and put it in line with my amp meter and sure enough no current was present when trying to start the car. I took a jumper cable and clipped one end on the big nut where the starter hookup is and the other to the battery and turned the key and sure enough it started right away. It's kind of a pain in the butt hooking this up but it will tell you right now if your cable is good. Get back to us if this helps and we will take it from there.
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  #7  
Old 09-04-2001, 09:46 PM
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dl79 dl79 is offline
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Listen to last426. With cranking problems, always check the battery terminals first. A loose or corroded terminal can imitate many other problems.
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