I need every racers help- LONG

[9dodge]

Heres my problem, been racing in the American Race Truck Series for 5 years now. Problem is I'm falling behind in the power department. Just the natural progression of things, we have come a long way but now 275 horse on the motor ain't cutting it!
The Fords and Chevys are in the 300 to 325 range, I would think that I should be able to make one horse per cubic inch with the 318. I've been through 3 engine builders, and 275 is the best they have come up with. Typical rules all stock stuff, rods, crank,replacement style pistons, stock heads, 1.84 intake valve, and 1.50 exhaust valve, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Holley4412, their spec cam..lift of .288 I and .296 E.
If you want to look at the rules in full they are at ; WWW.americanracetrucks.com, then at the top Click on "ARTS"
What I need is every trick in the book, I don't mind getting into the "gray" areas, but it needs to be legal. If anyone knows of a good MOPAR engine builder let me know. Sanborn, I've talked to you and I know you have some good engine ideas, keep them coming. Anyone else I need what ever you have to offer.\

Thanks all

[340king]

I think your problem, not knowing the rules yet, is a lack of similar compression. The Fords and Chevys both have closed chamber heads and create much more compression than the little 318 ever did in factory form. Switching to the "new" Magnum head could cure this, but creates a few other problems. Using an after market intake makes things better though. If you could use the new Magnum R/T heads, you would be in the money.

[sanborn]

I tried to look at the rules but they wouldn't come up. Isn't the 4412 Holley a 350 CFM carb?

[OvalDart]

Try

http://www.americanracetrucks.com/

[9dodge]

I have lobbied for the Magnum heads, they told me it "would give me too much" and that I have a "cubic inch advantage".
So at this time its all premagnum stuff.
As far as compression is concerned, they allow as a 9.5 to 1 rule and we are right at it 9.4. You have to run the RPM manifold, it's the required intake for all 3 makes. Current combo, is late model "302" heads, with 1.84 intake, and 1.50 exhaust.
Motor makes a ton of torque 352ft lbs at 3000 rpm, but no horse power for the bigger 1/2 mile tracks.
4412 carb is the 500cfm.

Thanks,

Michael

[sanborn]

9Dodge, did you get my rather long e-mail this morning?

[OvalDart]

What intake are you using? 2 or 4 bbl? The reason I ask is that a local racer was having trouble with his 360 and a 4 bbl with the 4412. He was using an adapter plate and he started having heating problems. He switched to a 71 2 bbl intake and the heating problems went away and he picked up some power and RPMs. His theory was that the intacke charge was breaking down in the larger 4 bbl plenum putting several of his chambers lean.

Just a thought.

[9dodge]

I have to run the Performer RPM manifold. Seems to work OK. But it's thoughts like that, that I am looking for. It's the small stuff that adds up.

[9dodge]

Sanborn, I did not recieve your email, I hope you can resend it.


Thanks

Michael

[BILL THOMPSON]

I didn't look at the rules but I know on our stock car when we ran it we ran 360 J heads with 2.08 + 1.60 valves stock they worked great with porting + polishing + there a stock casting number.As for carb I would try flow benching it for max power for your application.318s were a very reliable motor but hard to make horses.There was a guy in quebec canada with a plymouth arrow with a 318 + 904 combo that went 9's I can't think of his name though.

[RonsDirt]

Here are a few things that ofton get overlooked.
Ck the Oil Pump drive gear to Cam fit, This is a high wear area and will cause timing trouble. Also ck the Dist. fit into the drive gear. If allowed the X pipe will help the Exhaust flow. I know the Mopar book says not to UNSHROUD the valves, but I have run them unshrouded for years and out run the chev's. Use a Temp check on each EX. pipe, if any are low find a Distibator shop and have them bend the tangs to bump the timing on the low cly's.
Mopar's LOVE cool air so check your Air cleaner setup for ways to keep hot air out. I run a OLD A eng 318 back in the 60's that would eat 327's for lunch so it's there you just need to find it. also speaking of heat keep the Water temp about 200 and the oil temp at 220 to 240, run a 10w40 synthictic to reduce friction and drag. IF allowed step headers will help.

Good Luck,
Ron

[9dodge]

We do have water temp under control, can run in the 180 to 190 range no problem, even in the summer heat of Tucson Raceway Park!.
Ron, you mentioned dist. timing, I do have a couple of Cylinders, 4, and 6, that seem to discolour the header pipe alittle different. A plug check does not seem to indicate a problem, but a couple of other people have mentioned Dodge motors running a couple of cylinders lean. I will look further into proper timing of the motor.

Thanks,

Michael