What's the weight difference between a 360 and a 440? Advantages/Disadvantages?

[NotaHemi]

There is a related thread but I figured I'd start a new one for this. Doobiemon started a thread about which engine to go with.
I have a 74 challenger and it has a 318 right now. I was planning on going with a 440. But now am seriously considering a 413 stroker kit for a 360 as I also have a 360 block/core that I could build up.
Doug says it would be much cheapeer to go with a 440. But How much would it really cost me to build a 413 stroker out of the 360?
On both motors I'd have the block magnafluxed then, presuming it was good, bored, honed and decked. I'd put some aluminum heads on either one, probably. ( Anyone recommend different heads- I want LOTS of TORQUE). Hmmm... did I just answer my own question!! And even if I went with a cheap used 440 I'd strip it and rebuild it with a polished crank new bearing journals, main caps, better pistons/ rods, gaskets etc.
What would be the gross weight difference between the big and small block? Does the added torque of the BB offset the nose heavy tendencies of the car?

[Doug Wilson]

A lot of what you do depends on how much you want to spend. I believe the weight diff is about 100 pounds between an iron headed BB & an iron headed SB - you can spli the diff with a 400 "B" block and do a 474 stroker/revver fairly cheaply. My son & I are going to do that for our next project on a '67 Barracuda fastback(now a /6). We figure the whole budget, including drive train & conversion at under $6,000.

[rumblefish360]

Since you allready have the 360, I say go with the 360. Otherwise your spending more money to start from where you are now. The extra cubes of the 440 would be great.
The extra weight would not.
For simalar power (Down 27 cubes on the 440) you'll have less weight to deal with. Easy to corner.
Max air flow = max power. Hard to beat big block heads. Impossible when going head to head. Ex; Edelbrocks sb head to edel's. BB head. This where a sb will lose to a BB.
You'll get plenty of torque ethier way.

[Doug Wilson]

Sorry to interrupt this, but I type slowly and if I take to long the systems throws me out & I have to start over. My current 440 project started with a '68 440 block & 452 heads wich I bought for $200. With a blueprint & balance on a 0.060 block, I will have less than $2500 in the motor, including exhaust and intake. Desktop Dynoo says over 500 pound feet of torque from 2000-5000 RPM, but because I'm using a towing cam, only 370 HP at 4500. I could make more horsepower, higher on the RPM curve with a different cam.

GOD BLESS AMERICA

[pishta]

Aluminum headed big block with aluminum water pump, intake and headers will be the same weight or less than a stock small block, so no nose heavy tendency. Even lousy big block heads flow better than good stock small block heads, valves are bigger off the bat, etc. Check out a 383's HP and torque compared to a 360's HP and torque, you cant deny those numbers. 23 cubes is not the only difference. Stroke a 360 to 413, 426 whatever and the money youll spend doing that will be able to buy a 383-440 with alot of go fast bolt on stuff.

[Stoga]

What Pishta said! All the things that you plan to pay for to do to a small block, are already there in a big block, More cubes, bigger and better breathing ports, Unless you really have a space or weight issue, which would only be a problem on an early A body or a street rod, the big block is the way to go. One thing to consider, if you build up a small block to large cubes, and hurt it having fun with it, you'll have all that expense to build another. 440, and especially 383, parts are very common, I considered a 360 swap in my own 74 Dart, but decided to go with the big block. Unless you have a major weight or handling issue, the big block is the way to go, I think. Lots more parts available for big blocks too, and you can lose a fair amount of weight too, by going with aluminum components.