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#1
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Here goes....need some serious troubleshooting expertise....ready????....got a 1985 Chrysler Fifth Avenue, 318, auto.,143k, lean burn control,.....When cold, car starts fine, will run for about 30 minutes, then starts to hesitate and jerk when accelerating. Problem worsens until motor cuts out, then will turn over but not start. Will restart after 30-40 minutes and run normally for another 30 minutes or so. Problem is worse in hotter weather (above 85), car will run longer in cooler weather. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, carburetor, and EGR valve...Problem still persists....any suggestions would be appreciated...I'm baffled...tks....
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#2
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I had simalar problems with my '79 Dodge Magnum. Go...look at the computer and say your fired and replace it with a orange box.
Re check all the wireing. As this may be the real main culprit as well. |
#3
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check and see if the rotor in the distibuter has proper clearance with the pick up. should be .008. Mine did the same thing. the gap was to wide. got a feeler gague and set it to speck and no problems since.
P.S. Its recommeded that you use a brass feeler gague, but it can be done with a regular one. 340 party |
#4
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Could also be a bad ign. coil that fails after things get warm. If not almost for sure the computer (leanburn) is defective. Take it off, throw it against the wall as hard as possible, if it dosen't break, do it again 3 or 4 more times to be sure it's never going to give you trouble again. Then, install the Mopar Perf. electronic ignition conversion kit, and presto!, no more stalling problems. I've done many of these swaps, they work great, and are cheaper than buying a new lean burn computer. Dan
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#5
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Replace the pick up in the distributor.This is a common problem with the 318 in the 5th ave.I've probably replaced 50 of them myself when I was a Chrysler line technician.
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#6
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Don't even bother with the Lean Burn, it is total junk. Buy the electronic ignition conversion and go to town. You won't have any more problems and the mileage etc. will be much improved.
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#7
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leanburn conversion
I have an 88 diplomat with a 318, the only bad part is the leanburn, can anyone give me wiring diagrams or advice as to the best way to make the conversion to electronic?, thanks sijohn.......
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#8
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sijohn,
You can buy these conversion kits from lots of places including summit. They come with instructions and wiring diagrams. |
#9
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I had the exact same problem with my 85 fifth ave about 2 years ago. I could drive for about 20 minutes
and then it would act up and die. It was running out of fuel. I had already put on before: new carb, fuel pump and had the new conversion kit on it and a recent tune up. So I was pulling my hair out trying to figure it out. I had already done fuel lines also. My friend suggested eliminating the vapour line from the filter. I put a straight filter and problem solved. We figure something went wrong with the return line in the tank. When you can't start it take the air cleaner off and see if there is gas in the carb. You have to figure out if its ignition or fuel. |
#10
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I AGREE WITH GLEN440 IT SOUNDS TO ME LIKE "VAPOR LOCK" MORE THAN AN IGNITION PROBLEM.
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#11
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The funny thing was mine wouldn't get gas even if you took the gas cap off. My Volare gets bad vapour lock sometimes. Take the cap off and put it back and good as new. It would just misfire when it happened.
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#12
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ignition
Do as the guys are telling you! Take off that piece of garbage called the lean burn and have it crushed. change over to electronic box and solve your problems.
regards |
#13
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i have heard only bad things about the lean burn as well. i bought a 78 magnum complete just a little dent in the front for 350$ the lean burn was in the trunk just incase i wanted it lol the guy said its bad thats about all i remember. just thought i would post instead of reading them all all the time.
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#14
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lean burn to regular ecu
thanks to all who helped me with the wiring diagrams and pictures, i am ready to do the conversion. but i was not sure if i should use a 4 or 5 pin ecu, single or duel resister, the points to electronic conversion kit comes with 4 pin single ballast resister, i have a new in the package older 5 pin ecu p/n 03874020, also are all the ignition coils compatible?, thanks
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#15
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I'm pretty sure you can use the 5 pin ecu with the 4 pin wiring. I have only ever wired for 4 pin cause all my diagrams show the 5th wire as not used. All coils will work. If you use a better than stock ecu you should use a better than stock coil. As far as I know with a single ballast you are running the same 2 wires on each side that the dual ballast is splitting up. I have both but only use a single when converting.
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#16
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This applies to all lean burn setups,if you experience intermittent dying,look on the firewall for a small elect box with a 2 wire connector,usually blk or orange,this is a delay for emissions control,unplug it and see if it quits dying,dont bother replacing it in fact I advise using the whole lean burn set up for target practice!!....PRO...
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#17
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lean burn to regular ecu
One other item that concerns me in this conversion is where do you get the vacuum for the distributor, the leanburn carb as far as i can see isn't ported for it?
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#18
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my leanburn saga continues
ok all is done I changed the distributor and I have a miss, I found number 5+6 cylinders had a weak spark; I checked the wires and cap with an ohm meter, all checked, the reluctor seems gaped ok, why else would I be getting little or no spark from these two cylinders that are next to each other on the cap?
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#19
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It was the cap!
I replaced the cap and its running great, the whole thing cost me less than 50$ I replaced the distributor, carb,ecu and resister balast i got from the junk yard. thanks to all!
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#20
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Further sugestions
If the old 85 still gives you crap, or still lugs on you, it might be as simple as a fuel line getting to hot thereby vapor locking. The original post described that she dies as well as the problem being exasperated by heat. Check your fuel lines and see how close they are to the exhaust manifold, you may have to reroute it with an electric fuel pump.
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#21
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Concering removal of lean burn
If you yank that lean burn off of there you will run into this problem, that carb thats on there with the lean burn is designed to run under computer control(the lean burn comp), if you yank the lean burn, and do not swap that carb out, eventual you gonna run into problems. Like loss of horse power and torque, could even exasperate bogging, that, and you might just out right fail emissions(a small drilled hole after the muffler will fix that right up)
However, I do remeber a post somewhere else where they removed all air control off the fifth avenue 318, and put duel exhaust with dual cat backs on and passed emissions(by a nad hair). Thank the lord for stupid emissions people who don't look under the car yay! There are after market replacement lean burns for purchase, just got to find em! |
#22
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I can see this mod only helping to further leanout a allready lean system. Quote:
Quote:
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#23
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do you still have the cataletic converter on the car ? start it at night and see if it turns cherry red.
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