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  #1  
Old 11-29-2000, 11:09 PM
Elyod413 Elyod413 is offline
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Heres my problem. I just had my transmission replaced, brought it home and parked it. The next day when i went to go start it nothing happened. The battery is dead. Well I figured maybe the interiors were left on and killed the battery, so I try to jump it. I can get it started but as soon as I take off the jumper cables it dies. I cant figure it out, I've checked all the wires and everything seems fine. Its puzzling me to no end. Another thing is that I have no headlights except when I turn the high beams on and then all the front lights work. Am I going nuts or just missing checking a wire?
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2000, 04:24 AM
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NitroMethane NitroMethane is offline
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When it dies when you take off the jumper cables, your alternator is bad. When my 'net had the same headlite problem I had to replace the high beam switch. I really don't know if these could be related, maybe the low beams are shorted to ground in the switch?

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69 Coronet 440
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00 Avenger ES
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2000, 01:15 PM
mtrv8n mtrv8n is offline
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lots of shorts can cause charging problems in a mopar. Check all the connections first, from the alternator and the ecu. . They might've been bumped loose. Then, take it to an ignition guy to find the short (unless you want to spend days looking for it..). The last one cost me $150 to fix, but I had the car back in 4 hours.
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Old 11-30-2000, 01:19 PM
mtrv8n mtrv8n is offline
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PS..
The alternator can be checked for out put by grounding holes 4 & 5 on the voltage regulator cap (furthest left on the firewall) and reading the voltage. It should be 14-15 then. If so, the altenator is not the problem.
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2000, 06:02 PM
ChristianCuda ChristianCuda is offline
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I would check your Voltage regulator first. If that is not the problem then go to the alternator. Mine did the same thing and it was the regulator had burned out. I rigged it up with a new winding and it worked eventually burned out again so I replaced it with a new one. I have the old style regulator will be changing soon to the newer electronic regulator.

Christian

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  #6  
Old 11-30-2000, 11:42 PM
mtrv8n mtrv8n is offline
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to check the regulator, just bypass it. Sorry, i gave you info for the electronic units..
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2002, 04:32 PM
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95neongirl 95neongirl is offline
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where is the voltage regulator on a neon?


thanks
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2002, 05:55 PM
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ehostler ehostler is offline
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The regulator is part of the PCM, on the Neon (or any newer computer controlled MOPAR).
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2002, 08:26 PM
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dave571 dave571 is offline
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elyod.413

What kind of car do you have??

Some of the older ones have the body ground from the fire wall, to the back of the pass cylinder head.

It is possible(if not probable) that it was broken/disconnected during your trans R&R, since the dipstick tube is on that side too.

A body ground problem would give you all the problems you're describing. In fact, it is probably the only one fault that could cause all the problems you have, at the same time. The lights, and the voltage regulator all ground to the body, not the chassis. It is unlikely that the regulator, and a bunch of switches, have all failed at the same time

Without a good ground, the other tests may not be accurate either.
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