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  #1  
Old 09-21-2001, 02:09 PM
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Default k-frame questions

heres a quick questoin: the holes for the sway bar in a 73 duster k-frame: do these come with intenal bracing, or are they just carved in the sides of the k-frame? just wondering.....
thanks
mike
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2001, 11:10 PM
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Here are pics of mine. Not sure exactly what you are asking but these may help.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2001, 12:42 AM
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kinda funny....
Check out that third picture. It's looks like a little hissy-snake on the floor under the car.
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  #4  
Old 09-22-2001, 03:05 AM
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That snake is a rear axle brade line. Its an old one that I need to reproduce so I keep it safe under the car. Small garage; use all free space. Lumber goes under the Ram. See the spider webs in that pic. They are taking over and I dont know why. If you need more pics let me know.
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2001, 05:59 PM
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heres what im trying to do:
put a 73 disc brake front suspension on a 70 k frame. bought an 1 1/8 sway bar for 73 suspension. figured out i need the holes in the k-frame to put the bar through. want to cut the holes in the 70 style frame to keep it all looking stock. i just need to know, before i go a cutting, if theres any internal bracing in the 73 k-frame. also, if you have good pictures or templates of these holes, that would help, too. thanks.
mike
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2001, 06:23 PM
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Does the 70 have any holes thru the K? I will take some better pics and give you some dimentions.
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  #7  
Old 09-22-2001, 06:27 PM
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All k frames have the sway bar mounting holes prestamped,just drill them thru,the frame is double thick where they mount,there is no added bracing,you may have a prob though Im not sure,the 68-72 k frame was narrower by 1.5" than the 73 and later,this wont effect the mounts but it may be wider than your lower control arm mounting points are,if your fabricating those you may find that the 73 bar almost hits the spindles,a 68-72 bar will cure this...........PRO.......
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  #8  
Old 09-22-2001, 06:44 PM
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Hence the name "Pro".
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2001, 05:50 PM
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PRO
if the k-frame is an incha and a half narrower on the 70, will it throw off my suspension geometry? justa stupid question on that. and, also, the k-frame i am using is drilled for the origonal mounting points of the 70 style bar. nothing for the 73 style bar. you make me question, though, wether or not the 73 bar will fit even if i cut the pass throughs in the frame. any experience with this?
Hammer74
if you could get some dimensions and templates, and even a good overall shot of the k-frame where its cut, thatd be a big help. thanks. just a quick couple of questions:what kind of pullys are those? headers? and is it a stick or5 auto car? thanks.
mike
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2001, 09:41 PM
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I measured the K width using a tape measure going over the radiator hose and trans lines and came up with 35 3/4". This is the front of the K. The sway bar was bolt to bolt 37 1/4" approx. Hard to neasure on the car. The mounts were 26" center to center.
If these numbers do not match up with what you have then there is a problem adapting the two together. I will try to measure the lower control arm width and get back to you.
The pulleys are March pro street single groove and the headers are Hooker Super Comp 5116?. Auto trans. There are some header ground clearance pics I just took along with more K pic's.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...=13782853&f=0:)
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2001, 09:08 PM
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last question on this(hopefully):
if i do carve the holes in the k-frame like im seriously considering, what will that do to the rigidity of the k-frame and the safety of the car? seems like it might be pointless to do the swaybar if im going to get a lot of flex in the deal. also, i dont need to have the k-frame break at a hundred plus. any ideas? cautions? suggestions? experience?
please, i dont mean to be driving this subject into the ground, but this is the last hurdle in my suspension rebuild/upgrade, and i want to get it done!!!
muike
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2001, 12:00 AM
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Have you looked for a older style sway bar? It would be a lot of work to open up holes in the K just to add the "wrong" sway bar. Does your lower control arm sway bar mounts measure the same as what I gave you. Just tape some string with washers on the end to the holes and measure inbetween. If this is not the correct numbers then the sway bar struts will not line up straight up and down. IE old style sway bar needed.
No problem grinding the subject. That is why we are here.
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  #13  
Old 09-25-2001, 08:48 AM
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since i am welding the tabs to the lower control arms, i havent looked at the mounting distance between the two (car i got the parts from didnt have a sway bar). i can find the older style bar, the problem with that being that i've already paid for the newer style, and, even if i did find the older style, id have to swap spindle and brake assemblys side to side for clearance. then it becomes a nightmare with brake hose routing. that is the reason ive been fighting so hard trying to use the later bar. may seem kind of stupid, but the car's already driving (sort of) and i really dont wanna have to tear it down again.
mike
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  #14  
Old 09-25-2001, 11:23 AM
Aaron Yates Aaron Yates is offline
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The 69-72 swaybar won't fit between the brake calipars even with the wheels straight, it's to long. I'm in the middle of the same project right now with my 69' Dart. I want to just put a 73 or newwer K-frame in it but I can't find one around hear. I'm gona cut the holes in my 69' I do beleive. I have a 74' DartSport sitting next to my 69 and it looks like no sweat. Although I haven't done any measurements, I'll do some today and get back to you . Have you thought of swapping spindles side to side and mounting the calipars on the rear side of the axel. I'd my 74 like this just for the hell of it when I had it apart to see if it would work on the 69, but I think the rotors may hit the 69 style swaybar. Adco does make a bar for this conversion but its design takes away some of the effectiveness unless it's really big. I thinks it's too heavy for me though.I have a fax here from John Carlson @Adco 800-338-7015 ex. 16, this is from Apr.22,98. about this.
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2001, 11:52 AM
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Aaron: if you do cut the holes in the 69, any idea when youd get around to it? cause id like to hear how it goes and how it looks (safety wise).
just got off the phone with john. he doesnt work for addco anymore, and his new number is 561-848-1616. addco never did start making the conversion bars, so john is the best bet there. he asked if you ever did get that bar, and if so, what happened to it?
mike
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  #16  
Old 09-25-2001, 07:18 PM
dewme5 dewme5 is offline
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check that third pic again... are those cobwebs?? tisk tisk tisk. that thing needs driven
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2001, 10:17 PM
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Snifflesniffle, yes they are webs. My place has been overrun with spiders. I do not drive the car much so it is their playground. Did you ever check for spiders in your turbos; I hear the real big nasty ones like to play on the impellers.
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  #18  
Old 09-25-2001, 10:23 PM
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ha ha ha.. im driving mine.!! got it back on the road last week. doing some tuning right now.. (trying to get a program called "streetdyno" figured out so I can save a few dollars over using a real dyno.)
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  #19  
Old 09-25-2001, 10:29 PM
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Here in Chicago it is getting colder; feels like fall already. Probably another month of good weather. Maybe I should move to Florida and drive all year round. What is StreetDyno, just a theory program.
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  #20  
Old 09-25-2001, 11:05 PM
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no.. not just a theory program.. it reads your ignition system for an accurate rpm. the compares that against time, and you input all the other info.. such as weight. gears, frontal area.. etc etc.. and it spits out a dyno run. Which by all means. is the same thing that a normal dyno does. but instead of using rollers to harness the power. you are acutally running it.. so the air temps will be more accurate.. your hood scoop will be functional, the radiator will be cooler.. and so on.. the only problem.. is wiht the numbers you have to enter.. there is room for error... so being right, and thinking you are right are two different things. but.. if you keep all the input information (once you look at it you will know what i mean) and all the recording properties the same. you should be able to just adjust for the minor changes.. temp humidity and such.. and have actual dyno runs that might not be 100% accurate, but will all be just the same ammount off. so if you pick up 10 hp.. you still picked up 10 hp. no matter if the first was off.. know what i mean. and.. with the plotting.. it will also show you some areas of problems.. to reveal timing or fueling problems.

this one is free right now
http://www.tweecer.com/StreetDyno/

and this one costs.. but ... more info
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm
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  #21  
Old 09-25-2001, 11:56 PM
Aaron Yates Aaron Yates is offline
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Sorry didn't get to measure anything today,tomarrow I leave for race in Virginia,Icould be a while till I do some cutting on it, wanna get it on the road again first .
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  #22  
Old 09-26-2001, 12:32 AM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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The suspension used on 67-72 A-bodies was changed in 73 until 76 when the A-bodies were discontinued. The earlier models had the twin piston calipers on the disc brake cars mounted on the rear and the sway bar was attached to the lower arm and outer part of the K-member. The 73 and later models moved the single piston moved to the front, the sway bar passes through the center of the K-member and attaches in board to provide clearance for the calipers. The factory sway bars are 13-16" standard. The center link changed from the twisted Lizzie to a straight link. The idler arm is also different. The best approach is to find a 73-75 A-body donor car and pull the entire front suspension, install new bushings ( no poly crap in the lower control arm), check for defects paint and install. This recommendation is based on experience and cash outlay, do it right and save the agony.
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  #23  
Old 09-26-2001, 11:08 AM
cageman_99@hotmail.com cageman_99@hotmail.com is offline
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Question Another K frame question.....

I was going to post this question, but I figured i'll included it here....I have a 71 demon that I will be installing a big block in. I have a milodon oil pan with the cut out for the center link. Will I be forced to cut the K-frame for clearance when installing the engine? Thank you..... A
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  #24  
Old 09-26-2001, 07:48 PM
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Exclamation That name sounds familiar

Just wondering how you got the name CAGEMAN. I got mine from the fact that I build racecar cages.
Also if your worried about the Kframe weakening where you drill it, drill the hole bigger and slide a piece of pipe with an inside measurment the size that you were going to cut the hole and weld each side that sticks out.
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  #25  
Old 09-27-2001, 08:48 AM
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ive decided for now that im going to putthe car on the road, sans swaybar, and not worry about it for a while.
so, the question needs to be asked: does anyone want to give me my money back on a 1 1/8 sway bar for a 73 duster? i have brand new mounting hardware (brackets, lower control arm mounting tabs, bolts, etc), rubber bushings, and a brand new addco bar. i think it was 150. they'll take it back, but want to charge me a 20% restocking fee. oh well....
mike
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  #26  
Old 09-27-2001, 12:42 PM
dewme5 dewme5 is offline
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can you give me a all the info on it? money isn't in the books, but I can always work something out
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  #27  
Old 09-27-2001, 01:37 PM
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its a brand spankin new addco bar, with that neat goldish plating they put on em, and all the hardware to mount it to a car that never had a swaybar. its got the instructions on how what goes where, but the problem is, the instructions suck without having pictures of a car with one on it to see how it should go. hammer74's pictures are perfect in that respect. its an 1 1/8 diameter bar, and has rubber bushings to go with it, as i couldnt afford the poly's. thats about all i can think of.....
mike
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  #28  
Old 09-27-2001, 06:32 PM
George G. Leverette George G. Leverette is offline
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Default Cagemans Question

Cageman are you going to use the Schumacher conversion mounts, or modify a 73-76 K-member to fit? I have been there and done that to a 73 Duster. The reward was not worth the effort. Go to Mopar Links and click on bigblockdart.com. Most of your questions on big blocks in A-bodies can be answered there.
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