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  #1  
Old 09-22-2001, 02:05 PM
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ROCKHOPPER ROCKHOPPER is offline
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Location: Grand Junction, Co.
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Angry Need Help Fast

Hay: I need some help I am not getting any spark to my motor, I thought it was my Jacob's box so I bypassed it and had a new one sent. I was able to run of the stock ignition then it quit, and I have tried three different ECU units and still can not get it to run can any one tell me what and when I should have power to, I do have power going to the orange when I turn on the key. I also had it so it would not even turn over, I don't know what is going on, but I want to find out before I put my jacobs, back on. thanks for the help!!!!
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Old 09-22-2001, 02:11 PM
71 scamp 71 scamp is offline
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Is it turning over when it won't start or is it totally dead? Mine would go totally dead every now and then, I properly grounded the chrome e.c.u. box and haven't had a problem since.
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2001, 03:08 PM
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ROCKHOPPER ROCKHOPPER is offline
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I beleve I have the e.c.u. grounded and yes once it did shut down compleatly, but as of right now it will turn over, just wont start, I think I may have narrowed it down, I have no power going to my pick up's in the distr. does anyone know if I am supposed to have power there or what, sorry about the slop but I am in a hurry so my typing and spelling are surrering.
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2001, 12:15 AM
Karl43 Karl43 is offline
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Angry

I am having a similiar problem on my friends car. Get a test light and turn on the ignition to the run position. Hook the clip for the test light to the negative battery terminal. Then touch the coil, ballast resistor and verify that you are getting power to them. My buddies car seems to have lost juice to both. I am thinking that the ignition switch is bad.
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Old 09-23-2001, 08:17 PM
Karl43 Karl43 is offline
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Lightbulb

I just learned a trick to check if your control box is grounded. Take an ohm meter and look for resistance from #5 pin to the ground. Look into a service manual for the pin numbers. It is one that goes into the distributor. #4 is the one by the one on the sharp corner (and is centered on the corner opposide the radiused end). #5 is the next one after it clockwise. I hope you can understand which pin I am referring to.

Also if it is a stock electronic ignition, turn off the ignition and disconnect the wiring harness from the control box. Then turn on the ignition. Check voltage from a ground to pins #1 through #3. The voltage should be within one volt of battery voltage. Take an ohm meter and place the leads across terminals #4 & #5 and it should be between 170 and 1000 ohms. Then check each pin on the distributor leads to make sure that they are not connected to the ground.

Take a test light connected to ground and also turn on the ignition switch. Make sure you are getting power through the ballast resistor and the primary terminals of the coil.

Let us know what you find.
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2001, 08:41 PM
warlockpowerwagon warlockpowerwagon is offline
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Check the fusible links. I had one that drove me nuts as it was partially working. Sometimes it would crank over and not start. Couldn't find anything, so hot wired to the resistor and away she'd go. Take off the hot wire while it was running and it would be ok for awhile. Then it would happen all over again. Finally found a bad fusible link and have not had any trouble since.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2001, 11:45 PM
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So far from what I can tell I have a wire that is broke inside of the insulation somewhere, I have gone through and cut out all of the broke and cracked ends, it ran but I would shake the whole wiring harness and it would shut off, and would not start until I shook the harness, away she went, so I keep shaking different wires trying to find which one it was when all of the sudden it won't die any more, I have shaken the whole wire harness and it won't die, so I am going to go to a junk yard and see if I can find a new harness. I will post my finding, let me know if anyone has any idea's. Thanks
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