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  #1  
Old 12-03-2000, 07:00 PM
Dart_340_Swinger Dart_340_Swinger is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: SOUDERTON , PA
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Angry

Anyhow i finally got the engine in my 77' Dodge D-100 p/u fresh rebuilt 360! Now i have no power in the cab! I have power to the firewall and thats it? No power at the fuseblock eaither? I want to have it started today but i need it to crank first? Any suggestions? I tried all the basics? Please Suggest anything!!!!!!!!
THANK-you!

P.s_i have a flow of electricy to the lights even when the switch is off! And when i hook the test light to BATT neg side i get the light to light up when i touch the frame!!!!HUH???
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  #2  
Old 12-03-2000, 08:48 PM
HOLESHOT HOLESHOT is offline
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Cool

OK,ILL TRY,FIRST YOU ODVISOULY HAVE A REVERSE FEED BACK TO THE FRAME.START WITH WHAT WIRES YOU TOOK OFF OR IF NOTHING ELSE GET A VOLT METER NOT A LIGHT.THE LITE ONLY TELLS YOU YOU HAVE CONTINUITY NOT THE AMOUNT OF VOLTAGE OR CURRENT.BAD,POOR GROUNDS ARE USUALLY THE CAUSE,CLEAN ALL CONTACTS ,REPLACE ANY BUTT CONECTORS ADDED WITH SOLDERED JOINTS.USE DIELECTRIC GREASE AT ALL PLUGS AND OBVIOUSLY UNPLUG THE UNDER HOOD TO CAB FUSE BLOCK CONNECTION.I THINK YOU MAY HAVE BENT ONE OF THE PLUG CONNECTORS AND IT MAY BE CROSS LINKED IN THE BLOCK OR MAYBE NOT.NEXT WITH A VOLT METER START WITH A CHECK AT THE BATTERY AND GO TO EACH CONTACT POINT AND LOOK FOR THE VOLTAGE DROP (VOLTAGE USED UP) AND YOU WILL EVENTUALLY FIND THE LOSS.VOLTAGE DROPS OF .1-.3 VOLTS WILL BE NORMAL ANY MORE THAN THIS IS A BAD CONTACT AND MUST BE REPAIRED (POOR CONECTORS,DIRTY,LOOSE BUTT CONECTORS ETC).THE VOLTAGE MEASURED IS THE BEST WAY TO LOCATE YOUR HOT FRAME.ENSURE THE BATTERY GROUND IS RUN TO THE FRAME ,CAB,MOTOR,BODY AND BODY TO ENGINE.REMEMBER THE MOUNTS ARE RUBBER ISOLATED.OFTEN WE OVER LOOK THE PERFORMANCE ASPECT OF GROUNDS.ELECTRON THEROY SAYS POWER FLOWS FROM NEG TO POS NOT THE OTHER WAY AS WE GENERALY THINK.ALSO MEASURE THE BACK OF YOUR ALTERNATOR FOR VOLTAGE AND FOLLOW EACH WIRE AND MAESURE EACH END OF THE RUN (IE STARTER ,REGULATOR.HEAD LITE PLUG ETC) KEEP US POSTED IM OFF TO SCHOOL TODAY BACK IN A WEEK.GOOD LUCK BE PATIENT AND WRITE DOWN YOU FINDINGS.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2000, 12:01 AM
Dart_340_Swinger Dart_340_Swinger is offline
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As we figured before it was a GROUND!!!! We didn't have a ground running to Body!? Uh-duh!!! Anyway thanks for reply! I can't belive i missed this! Although i never took one off?
Oh-well never overlook the basics!!
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Old 12-04-2000, 03:53 AM
djswwg djswwg is offline
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Just a note to Dart 340, Holeshot, and anyone (and everyone) who's ever fought with a "weird" electrical problem........90% of them will be a weak or non-existent ground. By the way, Holeshot's method of tracking down the problem indicates his understanding of how automotive circuits work. He'd have found this problem quickly had he been working on this vehicle. Good job Holeshot!!!
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2000, 10:30 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Join Date: May 2000
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Don't feel so bad. It's been soooooo long that I have had to trouble shoot things that, when it came time for me, I did the same thing. Missed the basic thing to look for. Happens everytime your away from it for awhile.
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  #6  
Old 12-06-2000, 07:49 AM
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Orange Bee Orange Bee is offline
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Here's a strange one for you:
The night I put the headers on my 76 Aspen R/T (the Corvettes Camaros and Mustangs called it the Aspen from Hell! LOL) the engine would only run with the clutch pussed in. Let up the clutch and the engine would die. We tore our hair out itl 3 am and finally called it a night. The culprit was a factory ground wire that was broken INSIDE the insulation. It didn't look or feel broken, but that was it. Now I always make sure my cars have TWO ground straps to the engine. Another lesson in coincidence!
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