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  #1  
Old 12-04-2000, 12:13 AM
Light_em_Up Light_em_Up is offline
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Biggrin

I just acquired a 340 short block with all forged bottom-end parts,where should i go from here!? I have a 70' Dart w/ 4-speed and 3.91 8 3/4rear w/ "sure-grip" No NOS or Blower! I need cam, carb and head recommendations! the heads can't be aluminum(b/c of $$$$$)! THANKS and take it easy i'm semi-new here!
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2000, 12:39 AM
72Challenger 72Challenger is offline
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It's hard to make recommendations when you don't tell us what you expect from the engine, or what your budget is. Street cruiser? Stock Eliminator? $2000? $10,000? I assume if you can't afford aluminum heads you're on a fairly tight budget, so the second thing I'd do is look to the junkyards and swap meets for parts that will achieve your goals. The first thing you need to do is to HAVE goals. Write them down. Realize that you'll need to make compromises. Let us know what you really want, then we'll be better able to gladly help you.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2000, 01:47 PM
Light_em_Up Light_em_Up is offline
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I'm looking for the least HP rating of about 350horse! Pump gas isn't nesscary! I want to drive it a couple times a week, maybe to track coupletimes a year and run low 14's!? Does this Help?
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2000, 02:55 PM
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440Ramcharger 440Ramcharger is offline
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Here is how my '75 Duster is set up and does low 14's: '69 340 +.030 with flat top 9:1 pistons (casst) Cam is the MP 284 .484" lift Weiand aluminum hi rise dual plane with 800 CFM TQ. This is the carb with slightly smaller primaries 1.35" . Double roller timing chain. Hooker Comp headers with 2.25" exhaust and xover pipe. Dynamax mufflers. The car is a hurst 4 speed and has an 8 3/4 with 3.91 gears. Tires are BFG 13" 2.25's. Have fun and enjoy!! All else is full dres.s
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2000, 09:15 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH. Now that we have an idea.
HHMMMMM Lets see, there almost a million things. The Edelbrock RPM package before the alum. heds was rated @ 392 hp.
The Mopar performance catolog has a section called "High performance tips" Tips for bracket racing. They list the "Brackets" by ET's. You want to go low 14's. No problem! Go to the book and look up the part#'s needed to run that fast. Then look in the catolog for them.
Very handy to have. I REALLY recomend this book.
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2000, 01:29 AM
moparking moparking is offline
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I had a 71 duster w/340 which I sold after I got married in "89".It had an early,high compression shortblock..455-272 purpleshaft,stock intake and thermoquad,1.625" headers,255-15 belted T/A's with 3.55 suregrip..The heads were "j" and the guy I bought it from assembled it to sell,so I don't think it has any "trickery" in the engine.The best I got out of it was 14.06@99m.p.h.It was a very drivable car and I drove it daily in the summer of 89 after a drunk parked his truck on top of my 76 Volare,Roadrunner.I would also recommend a good clutch and pressure plate,I used a Hays street/strip and was very happy with it.

[This message has been edited by moparking (edited December 04, 2000).]
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2000, 02:10 AM
Light_em_Up Light_em_Up is offline
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Biggrin

I was planning on using the edelbrock performer set except for the heads i was gonna use a set of heads with the heart shape chambers off the 88-92 dodge truck, and a 750carb?
What do you think i could get out of it??
Maqybe 350hp!???
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2000, 02:49 AM
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Have you checked Hensley to see what they sell ? Might give you some ideas on which heads are in you're budget or give them a call and see if the head you mentioned would work. Good Luck.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2000, 07:42 AM
72Challenger 72Challenger is offline
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You've got a problem already. The Edelbrock website has a section for matching the parts for any given package. The Performer package recommends a 600 CFM carb. Use a 750 and you might get a little more peak RPM horsepower, but at the sacrifice of driveability and low and mid-range torque. The Performer RPM package is designed for the 750, but wouldn't live up to it's potential with those heads unless you had the intake valves enlarged to 2.02". With that and a 3-angle valve job plus a little bowl work, 400-plus horepower is very realistic.

You can't just take a bunch of parts and put them together and expect them to work. Unless they are properly matched, you'll be very disappointed. You want to run low 14's, that's actually very easy for a 340 A-body. The Performer package is quite adequate for that, but use a 600 or 650 CFM carb, not the 750. You've got the right rear end ratio, but you need to upgrade your ignition. The MP electronic conversion with an orange box will be fine. I think you'll be very happy if you don't try and over do it. Get too carried away, and you'll spend way more money than you need to, and you won't have a well-matched package. The best recommendation here so far was from Rumblefish. Get the MP catalog and study it. There are recommendations for your suspension and ignition as well as the engine, don't neglect them. And good luck!
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2000, 03:29 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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Why Thank you very much there 72challenger.
I've always liked a good book
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  #11  
Old 12-06-2000, 07:44 AM
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Orange Bee Orange Bee is offline
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Sorry to disagree with 72challenger, but the 750 will work fime on a 340. If you don't mind mechanical valve train, the Mopar 528 solid is awesome. Better power, torque and driveability than any of the hydraulics. If you don't want the adjustable valvetrain, use the Mopar 484 instead. The Weiand (say why-and)intake will make it run like a raped ape. As for heads, I'd get a set of cast iron W2's I have a copy of a 360 build up from an old Hot Rod magazine and you'd be shocked at the difference the W2's made on it. Equal power below 2400 rpm, from 3600 to 5600 the W2's pulled out 35 more hp than the stockers at the old peak and went on to make 73 more horsepower at 5600. And that's with a stock 360 with the old street Hemi grind cam -.470 lift 280 duration! And a 750 holley!
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2000, 03:43 PM
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rumblefish360 rumblefish360 is offline
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O-Bee

1 of 2 things happened here. And I'll pick the first one. Re-read lite-em-up's 3rd entry. A Performer and no alum. heads because of money. Well the W-2's aren't alum. I know , but there more $$$ than the Edelbrocks. Swap meet heads would be on the cheap for those things. There still alot of $$$. Then of course theres the added cost of rockers and so on. It seems he dos mind mech. valve gear. (This is what I gather)Its just more $$$ on top of things.
You MUST be joking, really. He said 14's. With W-2's and that big ol .528 solid cam....sssssshhhhhhhhh@@@@&&&&& You better be going faster than 14's. LOL
I've gone faster than 14's in a 318 w/ a hyd. cam speced @ under 280 dur. and less than .480 lift in a E-body. LOL
Look @ the entry by MOPARKING, small cam!
The (say, why-and) <g> weiand is a good choice to put on, no doubt. I can agree with that. Its worth the $50 or so extra for it.
When 72challenger had said a "600cfm" it is what Edelbrock called for the package. I think we can all agree that a 650-700cfm would be better for that. Of course, all things can vary a bit.Many factors here that are unseen.
I'm not saying a 750 CAN'T work. Hell, I got an 850 Holley to work on my 318 so I could get home once. Its just everyday driving, well , 750 is a lot.
HEY , he said 350HP or so. Not 400-450 HP. A 650cfm would do great for that HP level. 72 challenger nailed it.
Not to pick, but, what HEMI grind is that? Its small for a HEMI grind. MoPar has them @ 284 for the mech & hyd. w/..484/.475 lift.
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  #13  
Old 12-06-2000, 03:51 PM
obsessed obsessed is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Light_em_Up:
I just acquired a 340 short block with all forged bottom-end parts,where should i go from here!? I have a 70' Dart w/ 4-speed and 3.91 8 3/4rear w/ "sure-grip" No NOS or Blower! I need cam, carb and head recommendations! the heads can't be aluminum(b/c of $$$$$)! THANKS and take it easy i'm semi-new here!
Hi: I am not yery good on advice ,but can tell you what has worked for me. I have always tried to do things the cheapest way for the most punch for the buck..Here goes.
find a good 72-73 360 block,bore it 40,use your good rods and pistons out of the 340,sell your 340 block and crank and use the money to have the assembly internally balenced.Now you are able to use your hamonic balencer from the 340 and also your flywheel. Do the heads with the 2.02in,with the three angle valve job,mill the heads just enough to straighten them and use the McCord SS flame ring gasket and studs to secure them.Edlebrock LD340 with a Holley 3310 with the vaccum secondarys(you can tailor the springs for bogging)you should also be able to find some adjustable rocker arms from a 273 ,much better than the stamped steel.I used a comp cam 272 street fighter can't remember the #.Also use a GOOD electronic ignition.I used a msd6a but only because I had it ,the chrome box Mopar will do fine.Sorry for the long post,but the power and torque from this mill will amaze you,and don't let anyone tell you that the cast crank won't take it!!!I had this combo in a 1968 charger with 4.10 gears and it ran consistent 13.60's at high altitude.Your bigest expence would be the machine work,may be that you know some one.
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  #14  
Old 12-06-2000, 04:03 PM
mtrv8n mtrv8n is offline
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take a look at the cross ram intake posted here..if you can manage it, WHEW!
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