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  #1  
Old 10-02-2001, 09:24 AM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Wink Rebuild Auto Trannys myself??

Engine building I really feel confident with. No mysteries there anymore, but transmissions are another store. They are mysterious devices. I lack knowledge. I have a spare 727 that needs a rebuild in the corner of my garage. I would LOVE to teach myself some rebuild techniques this winter. Can anyone recommend a book or video that teaches this??
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Old 10-02-2001, 11:55 AM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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www.speeddirect.com

The 727 video is very good for beginners. It is how I taught myself. Also, beg borrow or steal a Chilton's Automatic Transmission manual. It has saved my a$$ more times than I can count. Very good info on parts interchangeability.

IMO, if you can build an engine, a trans. is a piece of cake.
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Old 10-02-2001, 12:11 PM
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abalto abalto is offline
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Hey Dr. Righteous:

Please correct your email address. We are getting lots of bounced mail from your address!!

Thanks - Andrew
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Old 10-02-2001, 01:04 PM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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I don't think the edit profile section of the website is working. I have been trying to change my profile for 2 months now. I emailed the webmaster, who replied that he/she was aware of the problem. But I don't think it has been fixed..
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Old 10-02-2001, 01:09 PM
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abalto abalto is offline
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I will admit that we are having an issue with editing profiles, but you should be able to still change email addresses. If you cannot, we can do it manually for the time being...just email us.
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:07 PM
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The-Challenger The-Challenger is offline
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hey Dr. just do it!
i rebuilt my first one 4 years ago. before that i was leary of the many parts inside but they are not that bad to do i did mine with the small manual that came with the kit.
the thing to watch for is all the other parts that dont come in the kit inspect every part close for cracks and worn areas. and dont lose your balls. good luck
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Old 10-02-2001, 08:33 PM
smokindatires smokindatires is offline
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I work at a transmission shop, am ASE certified in automatics and know enough to be dangerous,lol. Here are a few tips for ya:

Keep everything very clean, automatics HATE dirt. One little piece can easily clog up a valvebody.

Lay everything out as you take it out of the case,noting the position of it and its relationship to surrounding parts.

Be sure to aircheck your clutch packs prior to reassembly. Not alot of air is required, 30psi is enough. You want to make sure the clutch packs engage and disengage. You will hear a thump sound when they engage.

Make sure you lube the seals and dont cut any when assembling the transmission.

Dont wire wheel or rolox the seperator plate or valvebody surfaces (both on transmission case and valvebody) when removing the valvebody gaskets. This can cause crossbleeding of the valvebody.

Be certain to torque the valvebody bolts in the correct sequence and torque. Overtorquing can warp a valvebody. An inch lb. torque wrench is the best to have when doing this.

I hope this pointers help you out some.

Rob
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Old 10-03-2001, 02:27 AM
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tuffbird tuffbird is offline
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Ya know, back in April I did this very same thing. All I can say is follow the advice of the other postings. What made mine easy was I purchased the B&M Transpak that came with a very well written set of instructions.

Since then, I've rebuilt 3 more for friends of mine using TCI and B&M kits.

They are easy as long as everything is kept clean. Plus, if you lose a checkball or need a drum, the junkyards got tons of them and most will be unmolested and useable.

Mine lost reverse and 3rd. After I tore it down I found the rear drum had warped so badly I couldn't remove the planetary gears. The rear band was nothing but metal shards.

I ended up being very surprised at how easy it actually turned out to be. I used to say I'd touch anything on the car but the tranny...
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Old 10-03-2001, 01:26 PM
Dr. Righteous Dr. Righteous is offline
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Biggrin WOW, now what kit should I buy??

MAN, have the folding tables ready and that tranny patiently waiting in the corner. What kit do you guys recommend for a good 'street/strip' setup?? What is the real differences between a street tranny and one built for racing??
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  #10  
Old 10-03-2001, 11:05 PM
Billydelrio Billydelrio is offline
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Dr.
You opened the door with your last question. Here is my Opinion.
Street Tranny: soft early shifts in normal drive situations. No real modifications needed to the 727.

Race Tranny:
1. Manual shift valve body that does not apply the low/reverse band in first gear to eliminate the 1-2 timing issue. (homemade or bought)
2. Toss the governor valve system away (who needs it anyway!)
3. Throw away Throttle pressure linkage
4. Use as few front clutch frictions as you can get by with. The more clutches, the more friction in 1st and 2nd.
5. Modify front clutch hub to dispurse fluid evenly by drilling holes in hub that are between the frictions when assembled
6. Use the 5:1 lever to stop the drum quicker (argument here!) when going into 2nd
7. Use a good pan in order to keep the case from distorting
8. 2-3 timing is an issue, some experimentation is needed on your part, or go with someone's "fix" that has been marketed. I did my own thing here.
9. Use early style planetary gears as they are less power robbing due to design.
10. Put rotating parts in a lathe and check runout.
11. Align empty case to crankshaft with a dial indicator
11. Performance level may require aluminum parts, lower gears, etc..........

You will probably see many other posts from people more qualified than me on this topic, but I did what I did and that's what I did. It still works!

Billy
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Old 10-05-2001, 10:39 AM
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tsteiner61 tsteiner61 is offline
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Smokindatires,

What IS the correct sequence for torqing the valve body bolts? And is it true that you should also leave the screws holding the two halves of the VB together slightly loose until you have torque the body to the case.

I ask because I have been having some weird trans problems with a 727 I just replace a rear band in. Specifically, no drive in any position, but when I lift the rear wheels, all operation is normal except the wheels move forward when I am in N and are very slow to come to a halt when I move from R to P.

I haven't pressure checked clutch and servo operation, will do that tonight, but ran a pressure test on all 3 ports and got the following numbers.

Gear Line PSI RearSvoPSI F.S. release PSI
1 65 67 0
2 66 0 0
D 68 0 0
R 0 245 0
N 0 0 0
P 0 0 0

Right away I notice no F.S. release port pressure in D, I believe it should be near line psi.

Sorry about the chart, it didn't come out right..

Anyhow, any suggestions are appreciated, and let me know the best way to torque down a VB because I'm going to make sure I do it right this time.

Thanks.
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