Crate or Cam--which way to go?

[72satellite]

My 72 Satellite has 112,000 miles on the original 318 engine. Dad pampered the engine, and I got it five years ago with 63,000. The engine runs strong but I want to have a little more gusto. At what point is it worth while to install a cam, rods, and new heads VS going with a new engine? I installed upgraded electronic ignition, Edelbrock dual plane intake, Edelbrock Carb, dual exhaust and the engine is not burning any oil. I replaced most other parts like water pump, radaitor, alternator, etc...you know the usual but the cam, heads, rods and pistons are all stock. I know that I should check the compression in each cylinder but how about the bottom end of the engine? Oil pressure is pretty steady around 20-25 at idle and 50 when running

I want to upgrade from the 3-speed tranny, and realize that this will most likely mean a new drive shaft. I do not want to do this upgrade with this engine if I will need to replace it soon hereafter.

The car looks great with its Viper Blue paint and sounds great with the dual exhaust, but the semi-stock 318 doesn't do it justice.

With 112,000 miles, is it worth installing a new cam, etc or am I too close to the end of the useful life of the engine?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

[Stoga]

I wouldn't install a bigger cam, that increases cylinder pressure, which will affect ring and valve seal. Not worth it for what improvement in power you'd see anyway. Especially on a motor with 112K miles. You are NOT anywhere near the end of the useful life of the engine though, it should run well over 200,000 miles with nothing more than a timing chain replacement. A normal piece of maintenence that I suspect you are about due for. I think the best bet, would be build another engine/tranny combo for the car, and install when your 318 is either wore out, or you are ready. Question is, do you want to go small block or big block? Either way, I wouldn't go modifying the 318 you have, or you may end up having a car that is a pain in the backside to operate. Sounds like a nice looking car though!

[Christopher]

I have a bit of a different opinion on this.....First I think you should define what you want out of the car....Do you want a all out race car??Street/strip car?? or a nice street car that has a few more horses under the hood??.Are you satisfied with the car?? To me it sounds like you might be worried a bit about longevity of the engine.Not to worry,as Stoga mentioned,it will last quite a while.My own 318 Ramcharger has 130,000 and it's running great.If you want to increase the power a bit,I'd go with a stock replacement 340 camshaft,and a set of valve springs to match.While you have the heads off,do a nice valve job,and replace the timing chain and gears.I did a similar deal as you 've done with your car to my first car(a 318 Duster) and I ran that car until it had 152,000,then traded it on a new Volare Road Runner.If this is not what you want to do and want a heavy duty street and strip car,then I'd leave what's in there and start getting a 383-400-440 big block and 727 trans together and drop that in when you are ready.

[72satellite]

Thanks guys. In answer to your question, I just want a street car that runs as strong as it looks. Regarding the tranny, I was going to stay with a manual instead of an automatic. I was thinking about a A-833 4-speed tranny and was also considering one of the new 5/6-speed trannys but do not know if they are made for my vehicle.

This is one of two vehicles that the little woman allows me to tinker with (aka, pour money into). Her daily driver is a 2000 Durango R/T and she tends to have a LEAD foot. I switch between the Satellite and a 77 Corvette as my daily driver.

I have time to decide which way to go with the upgrade but my main concern is that when I do invest the money for the upgrade I only want to invest the money one time...or at least that is what I tell myself. I am leaning toward the Big block engine and was even tinkering with a wedge or a hemi. From what both of you say, it sounds best for me to live with what I have for now and take the time to design exactly what I want and then move in that direction. I assume that if I go with a big-block I should also look at replacing the rear end. Is this correct?

Right now I just found out that my frame rusted through by the K-member and I am in the process of repairing that little item.

[dewme5]

if you have any questions about the 6 speed issue, I'll be able to help. here's the short story on that

T-56 from and LS-1 motored car, Adapter to run a powerglide behind a small block (or big block for that matter I suppose) I have part numbers for the clutch and pressure plate if you need them. You have to modify your tranny tunnel. but in a four speed car, it shouldn't be to bad. Your drive shaft will have to be shortened. and, the front is going to have to be a chevy u-joint (1350) I think. You will be working with a hydraulic clutch, so time to adapt your pedal to working a master cylinder instead of linkage. Mini starter. Tranny crossmember. if you have subframe connectors, they make it easy. if not, they you have to do some floor reinforcement. but it's just ----_---- the center drops down just the right amout for your car. take some measurements before you make it.!!

Oh yeah. Knowing everything that I have done to my car so far. fuel injection, Twin Turbo, more cubes, and over drive. In a street car, the over drive wins hands down!!

drove from VA to MA with a 727 and 3.23's in the rear. 14 mpg drove back from MA to VA with the T-56 and 4.56's on a spool. 24 mpg. With out even thinking about it, I know the tranny has more than paid for itself in Gas.. not to mention the cool factor of having something different.

[Karl43]

I agree with Christopher's choice in cams. A stock 340 cam or one in that range will run well in your car. I have a MP 260/268/44 .430/.450 cam in a 318 Barracuda with 360 heads and a four barrel. It runs real strong. The stock 340 cam is a 268/276/44 .429/.444 cam. My cam has slightly less duration, the same overlap, and a hair (blonde) more lift. I felt I wanted the more lift and slightly lower duration than the stock 340 cam. Another good choice would be the MP 268/272/50 .450/.455 cam. It has similiar duration than the 340 cam, but more lift. I would not go any larger than this.

It depends on how much work you are willing to do. You should be able to replace the cam without very many problems if your engine is still pretty tight, which it sounds like. If you want to be sure that it lasts, I recommend the Mancini Racing "refresh kit". For $130 you get new rings, main and rod bearings, and a Sealed Power rebuild gasket kit (with Fel-Pro Permatorque head gaskets). I did this to my 318 with 250, 000 miles on the block. If you put too big a cam in an engine with high miles you may throw a rod/spin a bearing. Fresh bearings will take care of this if your crank looks good. I would also recommend Rhoades lifters which bleed down at idle and give full lift/duration by 3500 RPM. I have been running them for years with good service out of them. This will make your idle better and improve the mid range. They will pay for themselves in economy. A set of any year 340/360 heads even with 1.88 valves and a four barrel (the Holley 80457 600 vacuum secondary carb is nice, is calibrated for a '69 vintage car, comes with an electric choke for $220 out the door at Mancini also) and dual exhaust will give you a nice street package. It will be strong from idle to 6000 RPM and will get pretty good economy with a highway gear.

Oh, if you buy the refresh kit from Mancini, also pick up an Edelbrock true roller timing chain from them as well. A high volume oil pump with the high pressure spring is also recommended - I get 100 psi cold start and 80 PSI warm on the highway with 10w40 oil. While you are down into the engine you can replace the rear main also which should be leaking a little by now. Your engine sounds like it still has many miles still left in it.