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#1
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i have a 71 chargerwith 383 , weighs around 4000lbs. have done port work on heads which are 346s. shaved heads 55 thou. put back together with 20 thou.metal gasket. running 600 edelbrock with torker intake, headers, and original tor. converter and 3.55 gears.
i have run 15.3 at 91 2x. with 60 ft. at 2.5 with no wheel spin. i want to change the cam and can get the 280/474 cam real cheap-used i would like to get into the 14s. want do youll think about this cam for this car. i think i have right close to 9-1 compression now. thanks, brent |
#2
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HELL YEAH!Hey i hear ya about REAL CHEAP issue... that is usually the deciding factor for me too! Maybe a 10 3/4 Hemi convertor or a little bigger would round out the package perfectly!
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#3
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The combo wth that cam sounds good. I think you will need a larger carb than 600cfm, especially since your running a carter. The flow numbers in the carter are judged differently and a larger carb will be needed (750 Carter or Holley) with that cam.
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#4
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I strongly oppose using a used cam. I assume you have all of the lifters that match up to this "new" cam. If you don't, forget about it. You can't put new lifters in with an old cam because of the wear patterns on the camshaft lobes match those of the original lifters. Taking this one step further, Ideally, the original lifters should be matched to each of the lobes. Cam lobes and lifters wear to each other and to switch cams without putting the correct lifters in will cause premature wear or worse- you could wind up with a bunch of metal in your engine, busted valve seats, etc! Unless you know the car and driver the cam came out of, you really don't know what you are getting in terms of the number of miles, how the car was driven, etc. Also, unless this cam was just run a few miles, it will not have the protective coating on the lobes designed to prevent the cam from coming apart when you first fire up the engine. If the lobes are shiny, that means immediate metal to metal contact. If you were to use this cam this means even greater preparation than what you would do with a new cam. This includes greasing up the stick AND prelubing the engine before firing it up. Then there's the break-in period for 20 minutes at 2000 RPM as soon as you get it running. Just my oppinion, but going with inexpensive engine components is a recipe for disaster. For all of the hassle of pulling your original bumpstick, plus the work you already have in the engine, a new cam & lifters is cheap insurance compared with putting in something used that can really mess up your machine.
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#5
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Well.....Ive used quite a few used cams,including the one I have now (old ISKY mega cam),I`d always been real careful about matching the lifters back with the lobes etc...Till this one i have now,I just slapped some MOPAR S.O.S. on it and threw it in mismatched lifters and all!LOL!Had about 8000 race miles on it before i got it....I usually luck out!
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#6
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Coronet, I applaud your success and luck. If this is a daily driver, I would want the most dependable set-up possible (heck, if it's a racer you can always tow it home!) Saving a few bucks by going with a used cam in my oppinion is cutting corners and it's an awfully big risk to take especially if you've invested a lot of time and money in a nice set of heads. I wonder what kind of success others have had with used cams.
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#7
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Hey Chuck hope ya didnt think i was contradicting you!?!?Anyhow yeah I`m a self admitted "backyard hack"! My cars are usually put together with used stuff!I do agree with you though on the cam!Last cam i bought i new the history of it....if i saw any visible wear on the lobes I would pass.....
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#8
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Personally I dont see a problem using new lifters with a used cam....mismatched lifters
and I can see a problem. I've seen lifters replaced and had lifters replaced "in the car". Rhoades and Crane make nice variable duration lifters intended to replace stocker sets. Of course if you dont know how to check a cam for wear, a new cam/lifter set is cheap insurance. FB |
#9
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I doubt you will see enough performance change to get in the 14's by just changing to that cam. If the cam now is the stock type,i predict your 60 foot times will stay the same or drop. The 474 cam is a decent profile, but you will need to compliment it with a slightly looser torque converter in that 383 and heavy 4000 lb Charger like Charger Chuck suggested
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#10
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If the cam lobes have normal wear,( that means they are all the same)put in a new set of lifters, lube everything up properly and you won't have any problems. I've done it many times. If you have the old lifters and can match each one to the lobe it was run on, no problem. If you can't match them, toss them and get new ones.
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#11
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Sorry Coronet500, you had the Hemi TC suggestion , not Charger Chuck( good points on the used cam pitfalls CC).
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#12
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I would use the comp cams crb-270h-10 first or crb-276h-8 as a second choice .Also check out ultradyne cams. Its a heavy car with not alot of gear or converter. Remember a 383 has a short stroke dont over cam this car or it will go slower.
[This message has been edited by rat roaster (edited December 20, 2000).] |
#13
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I DO NOT RECOMEND INSTALLING OLD CAMS. BUT MOPAR'S LARGE LIFTER DIAMETER IS EASIER ON CAMSHAFT WEAR THAN BRAND X. I HAVE NEVER SEEN MUCH CAM WEAR IN MOPARS. IF YOU WANT TO GO A LITTLE FASTER A LITTLE CHEAPER, A GEAR CHANGE OR HEADERS IS MORE PRODUCTIVE
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#14
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If the cam is OK and you match the lifters accordingly,use the cam.You will need to go a bit higher for a carburator cfm rating though.( a 750 vac sec Holley is my suggestion)I personally have used this cam and it works real good.
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#15
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If you plan on using this car only around town and at the strip, and if it really does weigh 2 ton, I'd suggest 3.91 gears in the rear with a suregrip diff., and a looser torque convertor to compliment that hemi-grind cam in a 383. If you never plan on hitting the highway, then 4.10 gears will help even more.
I know your question was about the cam, but I think the gearing will get you into the 14's sooner than the this particular cam will. JMHO |
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