Power Brake Problem

[Doobiemon]

I have a 73 Duster with manual drum brakes. I just installed a power booster and new master cylinder, and now I have to stand on the brake pedal to stop. The booster is good and has no leaks. I pulled the booster off a 74 Scamp. I also pulled the spindles, discs, and calipers for swap. I did not pull the brake pedal. My question is, are the pedals different between the drum brakes and discs? I had someone depress the brake pedal as far as they could. It went about halfway down to the floor max. I noticed that the travel on the rod going into the booster was only about 3/4 of an inch. My friend said that the pedals may be different as far as the pivot location. Please help.

[PRO]

Heres how to check the booster,engine running,spray carb cleaner around the booster,where the 2 halves mate,if you get an rpm change its bad,dont forget the check valve as it has a rubber grommet that can leak too.Now shut it off and go depress the pedal.it should have an assited feel for at least 3 times,if not its bad(you did hook up the vac hose to the booster?)if all this seems ok youll need to adjust the booster pushrod,pull the master loose and look in the booster,itll have a cap nut on a threaded rod,unscrew it 2 turns and reinstall master,do this untill hte brake pedal travel is near 1/4",dont go to far otherwise your brakes will be on all the time,you may beed to bleed the system again after doing this if you had to adjust it alot because itll mean you werent getting full travel in the master,hope this helps.....PRO...

[Doobiemon]

Thanks Pro, it was the adjustmet. Appreciate it!

[MoJoe]

Is this procedure typical for all boosters, such as cars, trucks, or even non-Mopar applications?

Thanks, Joe