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#1
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Hi guys. I'm having a bit of a crisis. This car is my daily driver, my 65 Fury w/383. I was going to work, the temp gauge just started to climb and BOOM! I had a cloud of coolant coming from under my hood! Immediatly the car started running rough. I figured this was becuase of the rad seam splitting right in front of the dist and soaking it(BTW, I still have points). Nope. All dry and the car runs REAL bad! When I accelerate the engine a plume of gas comes up out of the carb. Plus I can hear what sounds like lifters tapping lightly. I pulled each plug wire to try and find a dead cyl or? and it didn't affect the running when I pulled #2 and #6. I pulled all plugs and the pass side was gas and carbon fouled and the other side was only gas fouled. I replaced all plugs. It barely made a change. Waht gives? I need this car up and running, it is my only car and I live 27 miles from work! HELP!
Thunderhead |
#2
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Thunder
Hows your oil? Any water in it? If she can make it to a rad. shop they have a tester that will tell you if you have a bad head gasket. I'm thinking water in oil because of the lifter tapping. A comp. test might also tell you some thing. Good Luck |
#3
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I agree with Joe, my 63 Chrysler did almost the exact same thing. It's unusual, but not impossible, to have the head gaskets go while running, like that. If they've never been changed, it's probably still the original factory steel shim gaskets, a new set of FelPro or similar head gaskets will seal much better. Go ahead and do the valve job while you have the heads off, so just in case you burned a valve slightly when it got hot. That will also give you the chance to change valve seals, so it won't suck oil down the guides, good luck! And real sorry to hear your problems, nothing worse then having your front line driver go bad.
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#4
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Sorry to hear about your troubles....But here's a few thing to find out for sure whats going on.
I use to run a radiator shop..so we saw this everyday...I'm 95% sure its the head gasket. To make sure....you can do as someone suggested and use the pump to pressurize the radiator (of course, you have to fix the blown radiator first). Also, water in the oil (it'll look like chocolate milk or at least real runny) Or, to check at home...do the compression test..chances are, 2 adjacent cylinders have little compression (thats where the head gasket is weakest). The pressure of the cylinder thats on its compression stroke is going into the cylinder next to it (whose intake valve may be open..thus causing the gas gyser). Also listen near the exaust pipe...it'll probably sound hollower than normal (and you may or may not notice increased moisture coming out even after warming up). Also...the thing that probably caused all this, was most likely a stuck thermastat (I replace mine every 2 years..cheap insurance). That would cause the pressure that blew the radiator tank and head gasket at the same time. Make sure to have them rod out the radiator core while they're fixing the blown tank (should cost about $45-$60 to do both) because a radiator plugged badly enough could do that too. |
#5
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Thanks guys for the input! I plan on the compression test Sunday. I hope thats allit is. OK, for an update, thermostat checks out perfect. I cycled it several times on my kitchen stove. Plus, this engine was rebuilt less than 10k ago. How well I do not know Makes you wonder, doesn't it? There "appears" to be no water in the oil. I thought I saw some right after I limped it home but when I went to work on it, I saw none. As far as the hollow sound, yep! It sounds hollow. It is really starting to look like a head gasket! Thankfully, BB Mopars are easy to work on! Oh, BTW, I "fitted" a 67 Imperial rad into it, 4 cores and all! It was a pathetic 2 core and that doesn't cut it in Tucson Arizona! Thanks a million guys! I'll let you know what I find out. Sorry so long.
Thunderhead |
#6
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If it was just apart not long ago, take the time to feel how tight the head bolts are as you break them loose, possibly one was left untorqued? May be a good idea to check the heads and deck surface for warpage, using a known straight edge and a feelers gauge. Also possible, but unlikely, a head bolt could be stretched, only possible on a motor that has been apart a bunch of times or severely overheated. If nothing else, a quick length check and measurement comparison may be worth the extra time. All our big blocks have been around for more the 30 years usually, so no telling what may have been done to the engine or any of the parts in the past. Good luck and keep us updated!
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