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#1
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my 383 buildup
hi
started with 68 383 2bbl cornet 500. what i have done. avs carter jo6125s carb, edelbrockperformer intake, 474 purple cam, 906 heads installed hard seats, 9.5 to 1 .030 over flat toppistons, windage tray, mp electronic ign, balanced crank, and hedman headers 15/8" primary3" collectors. put this together 2 years ago. before i found this forum. couple of things i didn't do check deck height, or cc heads, so called mancini they said i should have at least 9 to 1 comp. does this setup seem matched ok. what kind of h.p. & torq# should i expect. plan to run on dyno. so would like an idea of what i should try to achieve. i live in the country so just going to drive around no stop light action. would like to go to track for fun. any suggestions would be welcome. thanks donsa |
#2
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I put together a simular 383, with a different cam, but simular specs. My main problem was with the flat top pistons I used. They might have 9.0:1 compression, but I could use more. I shaved the heads 0.040" , but also used the thicker Fel-pro gaskets, so the net result was more like a 0.020" cut from the heads. Also, with the flat top pistons, I was tight on piston to valve clearance, so going with a cam over 0.500" lift is almost out of the question.
Keep the 1-5/8" headers, when I went to 1-7/8" headers I lost torque. Also, re-curve the distribitor so you can have at least 16+ degrees initial advance and about 36-38 total advance. This will help build more cylinfer pressure at low rpms (more torque and power.) My setup also used a fairly tight torque converter which hurt performance. I would use about a 3,000 stall converter with at least 3.55:1 gears. I would think you should have over 350 HP, but Probbably less than 400. |
#3
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Not too bad
Keep in mind that the 383 is a relatively small displacement engine for a big block. It has a shorter stroke than a 360, so when you go with a long duration cam all your low end torque goes out the exhaust. Good advice so far, bigger isn't always better with the 383. Don't get bigger than 2.5" on your exhaust tubing and you will definately need more stall converter. Choose 2500-3000 range and spend the extra money and get a GOOD converter (TurboAction, MP, ect a cheap TCI the like won't perform as promised)
With your cam I would suggest AT LEAST 10:1 compression. That is where my 383 is and performs very well. My engine didn't like a very quick advance. So I added a heavier spring and it fully advances around 3200 RPM. Your carb and intake will be fine for street driving. My car gets 16 MPG on the hwy and that is running at 70 MPH. Not bad for a big block. |
#4
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I don't think you need more compression.
I run a 494/292 cam in my stock piston (8 to 1) 400. No Problems I ran a best of 12.97 at 106 in a 3800 lbs Aspen. I didn't deck the block or shave the heads or cc or nothing...I bet I'd have more HP if I did though. I run 452 open chamber heads with a bowl port. I just honed it...reringed it and threw it back together. I run 1 3/4 hedan headers. Go with 3 inch exhaust. When I ran 2.5 inch exhaust I couldn't run quicker than 13.50's. With the change to 3 inch I dropped it to 13.30's. Everything else sounds right on the money. I run a 3000 SMR Converter (4 years no problems), 3.91 Sure-Grip I run an M-1 Dual plane intake....it likes it a lot better than the stock Thermobog intake. Timing is 18 intial, 39 total. I run an MSD 6A and I never fouled a plug again, it starts great, idles better and gets better mileage. I wish I could say I got 16 MPG, I only get 11 on a good day. |
#5
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Never dynoed mine but here,s the combo and its very mild and a nice driver!
1. Stock bore and stock 9.5 pistons 2. Stock 452 heads with stock valves milled .060 to keep true 9.5 comp and some mild pocket porting and thats all 3. 484 MP cam with stock rockers and shims 4. Edelbrock Torker intake and Holley 750 DP 5. CPPA 2" chassis headers 6. Stock dist with curve kit and orange MP box 7. I rebuilt the 727 with stock parts and a manual valve body with a 3000 tight TA convertor 8. 8 3/4 with 3.91,s It was built on a tight budget as I got alot of used parts from my brother and I have driven it to the track 3 time (90 mile round trip) and have run abest of 12.41 at 110 and thats with original springs as some good springs and a little more convertor would most likely help my 1.82 60 time alot!! |
#6
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have been thinking what to ask for a couple weeks. still
not sure so here goes. as this is mainly a driver was planning to use stock converter. person that rebuilt my trans recomended using it. less heat 'slipage' longer trans life. what would stall be on a stocker 2bbl.? would it not go up a few rpms if the cam causes a loss of torq? does stall effect just inital start? "people talk about 60' time.' i could run 3.23 without slipage at slower speeds or do i hold it in second and do manul shift to keep up rpms. sorry i am not very good at this |
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