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#1
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I have a two field 90 amp alternator that I want to use in my Road Runner that is a single field. I know that there is a way of changing the dual field at the Alternator without changing anything else in the system. Also this will not decrease the out of it as well (so I have been told).
Anyone know about this? ------------------ Road Runner, Run's like the wind..FAST!! http://www.hotrodder.com/nick |
#2
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Leave the incoming field wire from your reg. hooked up to one terminal.Ground the other field terminal to the alternator case.I don't think it should have any effect on output.If the output of that 90 amp alt.were cut in half,you'd still get by alright.
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#3
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If at all possible, I would recommend you find a donor car and take the electronic voltage regulator, plug and wiring.
If you take one of the field wires to ground the dual field alternator will work, however the old mechanical type voltage regulators were not designed to take much more than 45-50 amps. Eventually the contacts on the mechanical type voltage regulator will be damaged when excessive current runs through them. |
#4
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I have replaced it with one from YearOne that is an electronic version. Will I get the same out put with one field grounded? Or should I go the full route and convert the system over with a new voltage regulator out of a late model Mopar?
Quote:
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#5
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Hay TD
I know I have sent you emails (boy I can be a pain when I'm Confused I found out what the guy did to the alternator I purchased from him. He grounded one of the fields. I'm not sure if this is the best way to go. I know from what you told me that the regulator has to be of the type to take the new power output (mine is the electronic type that looks like the old style)... I'm not sure what to do at this point. From what I can tell, the new regulator is the same as the old type just that it has the ability to take higher current. The input lugs are the same, two of them, Alt and Fld.... The new aulternator with the additional field would go to the ingition side of the ballest resistor, why? I don't know but is this right? Which way would be the best thing to do, Keep the field grounded or re-wire it to the new style? Thanks for all your help!!!!!! ------------------ Road Runner, Run's like the wind..FAST!! http://www.hotrodder.com/nick |
#6
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I don't know how to advise you in regard to your current Voltage Regulator, as I don't know how many amps it's rated for.
I do know that the 70's type elctronic regulators are up to the task of handling the alternator you are runnning on your car. One thing that I neglected to tell you in my e-mail response is that you would be well advised to change the alternator output wire to a 10 ga. wire. I think you would also be well advised to lift the wire coming from your ammeter and wire the alternator output directly to the poitive side of the battery. I have a 65 amp alternator on my '64 Belvedere and nearly fried the ammeter with a partially charged battery and all electrical systems ON (Electric water pump, fan, MSD ignition, fuel pump, etc.) |
#7
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You can use a newer Dual feild alternator in place of the older one feild alternator, but not the other way around. This is because the older single wire feild alternator has one side of the feild windings connected to ground inside the case. The exposed feild connection on the old system gets positive voltage that is controlled through the voltage regulator. Since the newer two feild wire alternator has both sides of the feild avaliable for connection, all that is required to use it with the old system is to connect one feild to ground, and the other to the regulator.
Just for the info, the newer alternator wiring system supplies +12 volts (switched from the ignition) directly to one side of the alternator feild, while the other side (ground side) is controlled through the voltage regulator. This is why an old alternator won't wotk with the newer system. If not intrested in originality, bypass the amp-meter in the dash and connect the alternator output to the battery, the use a voltage gauge to monitor the charging system. Another trick for brighter head lights is to wire the head lights to work off a relay, and get the relay/headlight power from the Alternator output. This reduced the current (and voltage drop) in the charging wiring. |
#8
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Thanks
Now I know what the other side of the field is for, did not understand that part at all. Thanks much for this info!!! Quote:
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#9
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Does anyone know if the new style electronic regulator (a VR type, MP sell's them also) works if it is wired the same as the old style? What I mean by this is, the old style has one field grounded and the new style floats.
[This message has been edited by 1969RR (edited January 01, 2001).] |
#10
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I'm not sure what you mean?
The Mopar "Constant output" electronic regulator for the older charging system is a small blue box and wires in the same as the original "points" type regulator. The new style voltage regulator (large and fairly flat square box with the triangle connector in front) will not work on an old style single feild alternator. |
#11
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Thanks, what is what I needed to know. I'm installing a dual field and I wanted to make sure I was doing this right. |
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