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Old 11-02-2001, 01:50 PM
Matt_68_RR&GTX's Avatar
Matt_68_RR&GTX Matt_68_RR&GTX is offline
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Default Anybody running a 451???

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about building a 451 using a 400 block I've got from a 71 Roadrunner. I'm really looking at the Muscle Motors kit. I've also got a lead on some 906 heads...would these be a good set to run???

So basically, what are some pro's and con's of doing this???? How much machine work needs to be done to the block, if any??? I'm looking to build a strong street motor, not a drag strip warrior...what would be a good cam??? I heard a guys 440 with a "Hemi grind" and it sounded real sweet but I don't know the specs.

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 11-02-2001, 09:29 PM
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69CORONET440 69CORONET440 is offline
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use the search for "STROKER" and you'll get a butt load of info - you'll have to weed threw the sb stuff (there's a 4-digit min- so "451" won't work- needs to be 3) lots of guys here run'em. good choice - c ya
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Old 11-02-2001, 11:37 PM
HOLESHOT HOLESHOT is offline
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A good friend of mine runs a 451 in a 68 rr.Runs 11.90/119 mph to date on a real mild street roller cam with 550 lift and 9.1 comp,with 4.10 gears very streetable (except for the 4000 stahl)and idles like a stock HPO motor.
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Old 11-03-2001, 09:22 AM
Jims451 Jims451 is offline
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I have a Muscle Motors 451 stroked 400 block. I actually had them build the entire short block, and then I bolted on some Brodix B-1 B/S heads on it.
Here is the important facts:
The Muscle Motors 440 crank has the mains turned down to fit the 400 block.
The crank also has the counter weights cut down so you don't have to notch the block. Basically the crank is machined so it will drop right into the 400 block.
You can use either the 383/400 length rods or the 440 length rods. Since the entire idea if the 451 stroker is to use light weight pistons, you should use the 440 length rods. Aftermarket rods are preferred, but I have stock 440 rods that have been preped, inspected, resized and use ARP bolts.
I have had no problems running these rods, but my shift points are only around 6,200 to 6,300 RPM.
If you plan to run a really big cam (over 250 duration @ 0.050") you may want the aftermarket rods for the higher RPM levels.
Your Compression Ratio will depend on your head type, fuel octane, and camshaft size (also altitude.)
I live in Denver, CO (about 6,000 ft altitude), and with the aluminum heads and 251 @ 0.050" duration roller cam I can run 11:1 compression on 91-octane pump gas.
I think that for the money the new Edelbrock heads would be a better choice than the iron heads.
I also think that 10.5:1 compression would work with the aluminum heads and most performance sized cams.
The solid roller cam I have is a ultradyne 251/251 @ 0.050" solid roller with a theoretical 0.620" valve lift using 1.6:1 rocker arms.
Because of the large CID, you can easely run a pretty big cam. Hughes engines has some nice fast rate of lift hydraulics if you don't want to mess with a solid lifter type cam.
I am running a M1 single plane intake with a 1,000+ CFM Holley pro-series carb. A milider engine may work better with the Edelbrock RPM dual plane intake.
My engine also used 2" primary sized hooker headers with the TTI 3" exhaust system.
Oiling system uses the 1/2" oil pickup (block modified for the larger oiling system), a High Volume Melling oil pump and the Milodon low-profile 7-quart oil pan.
My stock 3-row radiator is marginal at cooling the engine on hot days, and I really need to upgrade the cooling system.
My fuel delivery system is overkill, but works with no problems. A 20-gallon fuel cell, Mallory 500 gph filter, Mallory 250 GPH pump, #8AN fuel lines (1/2"), and a Mallory bypass regulator mounted at the engine.
Ignition is a Mallory uni-lite that triggers a MSD6AL with a Crane PS91 coil and Jacobs wires.
The only reason I used the Uni-lite distribitor is it has an adjustable mechanical advance, but a re-curved Mopar electronic distribitor will work the same. With my B1 heads efficent chamber design I only need 32 degrees total ignition timming, and about 12 degrees initial timming.
I do run a 10" Dynamic race converter. The race converter is basically the same as the street converter but had HD internals and a anti-balooning plate in it. A real nice converter for $550.
The engine is nice on the street, with a noticable lope and tons of torque. This last year I drove the car around with 3.23:1 gears, but this causes a bit more converter slippage than I care for. I think 3.55:1 gears would be ideal for my setup.
With 3.91:1 gears, my #4,150 Charger ran 12.5's @ 110+ MPH at Bandimere speedway (remember the 6,000 foot altitude.) The car should easely run 11's at near sea-level altitudes.
With the 3.91:1 gears I also would get about 10 MPG on the highway (the distrubitor has no vacuum advance.)
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