Trick to remove intermediate shaft

[DAVE JONES]

I had to remove this the other day when the manifold was on.
As you know, there is not a whole lot of clearence and I have a set of needle nose that I ground up specially with 80 grit attached to the outside. I put it down in the C.bore, open up, and pull.....many times unsuccessfully and after 10 mins of swearing I get it.
So the other day my son sees that I'm going to be doing this again in about 10 mins and tells me he's going to makes up a quick tool to do it easily....Ya, right....go ahead bud. 5 mins later he gives me a 1/2" dia 8" long bolt and on the end he attached a 1" dia, 1/2' thick magnet to the end with duct tape. 10 seconds later it came out. All I did first was twist it so it was sitting on top of the cam. This is now a permanant tool in my box and I'm probably the only one in the united states that didnt know this but I had to pass this on to the group......Dave

[rumblefish360]

LOL good trick there. Now send your son out to school to be an inventer so he can make our lifes easy.
I just used a big screw driver and a hammer to help out in shock value. Never fails

[dewme5]

just had this problem 3 days ago. 2 things worked great!!! one, was a small magnet. I have about 1" cube. stuck it to a socket, reached down and pulled it right out! but then came the part about getting it back out if I put the shaft back down there. the second thing that worked great (for getting it in, out, and adjusting it while down there) A machinist scribe (a.k.a. dental tools) it's a straight scribe, except for one end that has about 3/8" bent over at 90degrees. stick the point of the 90 degree end, rock it back until the bend starts touching the opposite side, and it just pinches itself in there. complete control of it then.
I didn't try the screwdriver trick. if i have the right size on, that will probably work even better.

[Hammer 74]

I do not want to start a bash topic but I have to say that a magnet is not a good idea to use for any engine part because it will transfer some of its magnetism to the part. I would suggest you demagnetise it before you install it or there is a chance or it attracting small metal bits and eventually leading to premature wear on the part. I deal with magnetic stuff all the time at work and and see first hand what accumilates if something is not demagnetised. Its not pretty sometimes. Just my opinion.

[Hammer 74]

Oh ya, the original topic is the removal of the inter. shaft. I bend a coat hanger end to the angle of the teeth and under around the stem so it fits inside the outside of the gear. A large screwdriver to unscrew it a little untill it sits over the cam gear and then hook it with the hanger. Comes out easy.

[BB 70 Challenger]

Ok

So I have to replace the actual bushing thats there in the block around that shaft. I think it´s called Intermediate Shaft Bushing, logically ;-)

But is removing of that bushing a no-brainer or is there something I should know of? I will take the manifold off but wouldn´t like to tear the engine any more than that. So is there anything worth mentioning when replacing that bushing?

Thanks, - BB 70 Challenger

[Fast_Eddie]

I wouldn't suggest replacing it unless you tear down the motor more.

In most cases it has to be reamed a little to fit the shaft perfectly. In that case, you don't want to do it on a motor all together.

Just IMO of course.

[DAVE JONES]

Hammer 74...............
STOP BASHING ME STOP BASHING ME OH MY GOD MY FEELINGs MY FEELINGS!!!!!. Just kidding....
Good point about the magnet transefering some magnitisim to the shaft. I didnt think about that. After reading some of the other ideas that are used, I think I'll use them but I'm still gonna keep my sons tool for obvious reasons. Thanks.........dj

[Jims451]

Man you guys are lucky!
On my well used 1983 RamCharger 318, I spun the timming gear on the intermediate shaft. This shaft is sort of different than most I have seen. it looks like it only has a small roll pin right under the gear, not the big pin that goes all the way through the shaft a bit lower on the gear?
Anyhow, the 318 must have seen hard days and infrequent oil changes because there was so much varnish built-up on the shaft that I had to remove the intake manifold and pry the shaft out with a pry-bar!
Since I had the engine mostly apart and it needed a new timming chain too, I droped in the small 260/268 MP cam, a new timming set and a good used intermediate shaft.
This also gave me an excuse to use my new leak-down gauge, which works great for holding the valves while changing the valve springs.
I think the 318 could actually use a re-build as the leakdown tester was showing about 10% or more blow-by?
I got most of the engine put back together the other day, but it started snowing