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#1
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he-he-he-hesitation
I recently installed an edelbrock 650, manifold, rv cam and mopar elec ign, it runs very strong and pulls the boat and horse trailer very nicely, one nagging problem, hesitation, improves with hot weather, bad with cool/cold weather, no problem with choke on during warm-up, initial timing 10 degrees, full accelerator pump stroke, vac adv works, what's next, 727 trans, 3:55 rear..thanks for the replies...Mick..oh, 84 pickup...
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#2
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You said you have an Edelbrock intake and carb. I don't remember them producing a 650, but no difference. I assume as usual, the carb is square bore while the intake is spread bore, right? Which adapter did you use to go between? I also had a hesitation in my Edelbrock setup on the 318 in the Duster until I went with the Mr. Gasket 1" adapter/spacer and increased the plenum and used my Dremel to port the adapter to gasket size for smoother flow. Got rid of my hesitation. Just a thought, maybe it's tumbling it's way down the runners instead of flowing.
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#3
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Could be that you need to put in different metering rods for the fuel mixture. What do your plugs look like? Are they bright white? or black and sooty? When does it hesitate? at idle when you punch it?
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#4
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more info
It hesitates just off idle (warmed up), it is very annoying! the plugs look good, the setup works great except for the hesitation, once past the "dead spot" it takes off smoothly, changing metering rods occured to me but the flat spot is very low in the rpm range, the manifold/carb are both square bore, it acts as if there is a weak accelerator pump but it's not, punching it produces wheelspin not hesitation...any ideas???thanks...Mick
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#5
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I'm no hot rod guru, that's for sure. But it sounds identical to my buddys hesitation that only happened between 1200-1600 RPM. EXTREMELY annoying and difficult to pin down. He tried intakes, carbs, dist., ECU's, etc. Finally becuase he got frustrated and broke something, he changed the springs in the dist with lighter ones (that's all he had). Hesitation gone. Runs all out, all the time. Just 'cause the advance works, doesn't mean it's keeping up. Just a thought.
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#6
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without changing anything else. Get the tuning kit for your carb. put the heaviest piston springs in. Let me know from there. It is probably very lean for the initial tip in on throttle. The accel. pump can't help you after it's shot is gone. The key point here is you say it spins the tires if you go ahead and nail the throttle. So your metering rods may be too slow to come up. as in too low of vacuum to bring them up.......Let me know.......
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#7
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Hey Dansdart..can you elaborate on changing the piston springs? the carb is a carter copy by edelbrock, 600 cfm, the hestiation is at throttle tip in...should I go to lighter springs on the metering rods? the vac advance is the mopar performance set-up...the carb kit is $38 bucks and I can get it at the local shop...let me know...thanks...Mickster
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#8
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600 edlebrock, under the metering rod pistons is a spring. The stiffer the spring the more vacuum it takes to pull it down. I'll tell you what was happening with mine and maybe you can apply it to yours. on normal take offs as in daily driving engine would hesitate. It was to the point where I would either take off with about 1/3 throttle or feather into the throttle. There was no in between. My engine idle vacuum is about 10 hg in. this is about 4000 feet here. At throttle tip in the vacuum would drop to 6 to 7
but with 6 hg spring the metering rod would not come up in its bore. I only needed it to come up monentarily then go back down for some economy. So the heavier spring helped mine alot. Your engine will or should not have any vacuum at idle. So the springs will shove the metering rod pistons up in their bore, Thus using the smaller portion of the metering rod for gas to flow thru the jet. This gives a richer mixture sooner by changing those springs to heavier one's. Yet when you get cruising the metering rods will be pulled back down, by the cruise vacuum which should be Higher than your idle vacuum. At least it better be. I know I got long winded, but hope it helped..... |
#9
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I'll give it a try and let you know..it makes sense...thanks, Mick
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#10
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hesitation
Are you a timing light person???Mine does not get used much these days.....I just leave my dist. hold down snug and get out of ride to "adjust timing on fly" it works for me.You must try this because gasoline these days is formulated for FI...carbs just don't run good on pump gas these days,..also you may be lean/rich...and check vacum hgs.
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#11
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Before you spend your dough try this,first check the timing rate of advance.that is does it progress from 10 degrees evenly and at a reasonabely slow rate or does it not move and then jump.If so fix this first.Second if you have a pump shot rod that has adjustment holes change them 1 at a time until best desired throttle response is found.Do you have any vaccum?How many inches?Does your carb leak any vaccum?Did you test for a leak.?Is the air flow restricted? Are your air idle screws set correctly?All of this will / could cause a hesitation.
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#12
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Contact me if you need different springs for the metering rods. I have an extra pack that has the various colored springs ("of vacuum). I will let them go for the cost of shipping.
Michael |
#13
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I had exactly the same thing. Believe it or not, I got rid of it by narrowing the gaps of the plugs...
Frans Veldman |
#14
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my 2 cents
try stretching the springs out to put some more tension on them....(equal amounts,compare length)
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#15
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ATTN: 440 Ramcharger
If he doesn't want that spring kit, I could really use it. Please let me know. Thanks, from...Doug
GOD BLESS AMERICA!! |
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