440 which year is better?

[Rog]

I found 3 440's, one is a running 1974, the other two are on the shop floor, the guy says they both ran when pulled, one is 67' and one is a 68. He said the latter two have steel cranks and closed chamber head. What I'm looking for is an engine for my 32 Dodge coupe and I want a big block. I want to get around 400 hp out of it. Are any of these motors a good starting point? I don't know much about Mopar stuff so be patient with me. I want to spend around 3K by the time I'm done. He wants $250 for the 2 on the floor and $450 for the one thats running. What do you guys think? His phone is ringing off the hook for these things so I need to act quick if I'm gonna get one. Thanks

[schweng]

I guess personnally I would go with the two on the floor. The '74 has a cast crank. You'll be able to get more horseys out of the steel crank, plus you have spare parts.

[djswwg]

Plus the 2 early blocks (steel cranks) have thicker cylinder walls for more strength plus they can be over bored up to 60 whereas the late model blocks can only go 30 over safely..............djs

[Doug Wilson]

I'd go with the '74. Cast crank is good to at least 600 horsepower, and it's got MUCH better heads for the street - 452s, I believe. They have 88 to 91 ccs (open chamber) and hardened valve seats. I think he wants too much for it, unless you just want to drop it in and go. If you're going to build the short block, then buy one of the cheaper ones, and buy some 452s. Also, the cast cranks are inherently better balanced, due to the methods used in making them. By the way, what are the casting numbers on all the heads?

Also, in terms of the engine blocks themselves, there are no differences between any year of the 440, that are of any significance. And if you bore ANY of them over 0.030, you'd best sonic check the cylinder walls first.

GOD BLESS AMERICA!!

[bbopp]

Hello. The 74 is a cast crank. This will still get you to your power level. The only thing is that if you want to run a stickshift you need a steel crank. There needs to be a pilot bushing in the crank.They do not recomend drilling them out. Automatic is no problem. Just make sure the converter is balenced correctlly. It should be an externally balenced motor. You can tell by a weight on the end of the balencer. The heads should be a 346 casting this is found under the valvecover the last three digits of the casting number. 74 I think was the phase in year for hardened seats. They are fine for todays gas.
The other blocks are great. Thicker walls for more bore size but the heads need to have hardened seats to survive on this junk gas. I personally have a 1968 long block in my coronet. Hope I was of some help.

[Mr. Trans Am]

Any will do what you want. B&M has a flexplate that makes convertor selection better w/ a cast crank, of course weld on weights are an option.
Cast crank will live at your power level and beyond.
'67 is the only one with the closed chamber 915 heads(unless there was a swap) so check the casting #'s.
THe '74 block is just as good as the early ones. '76- '78 are the "thin wall" jobbies. MA did an article though and I recall that it is the material hardness that is different, not wall thickness. Doesn't matter as the '74 is fine.

I would run a leadown test or comp test or vac test on the '74. If it is in good shape, new gaskets and a chain will get plenty of miles out of her. Spend your coin on heads, like say the Edlebrocks, and you will have more than your desired power. Save for a rebuild later.

I second the pilot bushing consideration mentioned earlier.

I just price a chain rebuild '73 block w/ cast crank for 800 or so bucks and 150 core charge. Might want to look into something like that. Stock comp is a little low though for some apps like aluminum heads, which is why I'll likely skip that one. I think I saw similar deals someplace for a better comp short block.

[JCFcuda]

I don't beleave that the years matter to much,I would Sonic test any if your going more than .030 over. I've have a 66 casting and a 78 casting, I had no problems with either.
Any 440 block /crank can get you in the 400hp range.
When you decide on your block, Make sure your shop Mags and or presure test it before machineing it.I learned that on the hard way.
Jim

[phoenix]

Any of these engines is easily capable of being built @ a 400hp level and beyond reliably. If this is a new installation then consideration could be given to a "runners" coming with compatible bracketry etc.? If you're 'gonna "buzz" the final product then there is some advantages to keeping the weight internal on the crank counterweight as in the forged crank units, but I don't think we're talk'in 7500 rpm here are we? Therefore go to what works! As far as the wall thickness, I've sonic tested dozens of RB blocks and found thick late blocks, AND thin early blocks. What's more important in this area is finding/mapping the inherent core shift in the cyl. walls as to overbore capability and/or way in which you intend to have the overbore performed or corrected, ie; boring bar correction procedures before the CK-10 honing, or bore and hone in the CK-10 which follows existing cylinder alignment. Anyway I'm getting way off on a new topic! On a 3K budget, 400hp with any RB is "doable", Cast or steel, early or late, I'm out

[djswwg]

One more thing which may or may not affect your particular vehicle. The later model blocks had a raised boss on the front of the block on the #1 cylinder. It has a threaded hole in it for a power steering pump bolt. I found this out the hard way when I put a '69 440 in my '75 New Yorker. I had to make up a bracket to support the back of the pump. A pain in the a$$, but it worked great, as I put another 80,000 miles on the car with the '69 engine in it..............djs

[Rog]

Thank for all the info guys, my mind was made up for me. When I went back the only one left was the 68' so I bought it. ($250). I brought it home and pulled it down last night. Alot of rust in a couple bores but not bad. The front two holes which usually show the most wear if there is any were 4.330 just under the ridge, again this area typically is the worst, following down the bore averaged 4.325. Anyway hopefully a .020 over will do it. Came with 906 heads. I'm pleased with what I got so far. Hopefully the sonic work will also be OK. Thanks again for all the info. I learned alot. Folks like you just may make me a full fledged MOPAR guy one day. (I still have one leg in the Chevys)

[Doug Wilson]

Reread what PHOENIX said ........he is absolutely correct ......... and this is important stuff!!

From the ol' Coot ...Doug

GOD BLESS AMERICA!!