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#1
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I scored a 1971 Plymouth Valiant for FREE! the old lady just gave it to me!!! anyway,it is any typical '71 valiant being grandma green in/out and being a 4 door also having a slant 6. after many failed attemps to make the /6 run good (dead #6 cylinder). I scored a 426 Hemi from my auto shop teacher for $350 bucks!! it is rebuilt to stock specs, just the valves are frozen because it was a display motor after it was rebuilt in 1978. it just sat on an engine stand for years until now. I looked at shumacher and i didn't see that they make the mounts for this conversion.would B/RB mounts work? what are your thoughts on this project? what problems would i expect? i know i have to change rearend,transmission, etc. it looks like i have enough room to stuff it in there. should i do this and make it a ultimate sleeper?
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#2
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YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!
Putting a HEMI in there should be a challange and then some! When your done curseing up a storm, let me know. This should be great!!! I have not seen any conversion parts for this. No, Big block mounts won't work. You'll have to learn to use a welding tourch for this, or pay!! Do yourself a favor and get a V-8 "K" frame for this trip. This INSANE TRIP!!! P.S. Can i come along |
#3
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Sure rumblefish you can come along!
I am mapping out and planning REALLY far ahead because the valiant is my daily driver until i get my 69 dart done. then the fun starts. I do know how to arc weld, but thats it. what type of welding would i need to do? I think this would be very rewarding in the end i am prepared for mysteries of wiring, mounting, etc. i really don't want to swap K frames. would i have to use motor plates to put it in? |
#4
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Exellent idea!!
Everybody knows 4D cars are slower than 2DHT...Maybe its the two extra doorhandles? I´m have -73 Dart 4D With 440, outside it looks like grandmas car. I´ll promise you it´s going to be fun. Imagine that vette drivers face after the rubberpieces stop dropping and tiresmoke disappears and "grandmas" car is missing, there is only two 300ft long ft wide black marks on the street! On your -71 you have biscuit-type engine mounts, those are not too hard to do yourself. Here is one way, testfit your engine+trans in place, bolt transmission crossmember in place, now take measures for mounts, cut and weld them from ~5mm steel. It´s going to be tight. Headers are difficult, maybe easiest is to make them in place, or you can buy one and then modify(usually they don´t fit out of the box). REINFORCE THE BODY! Attleast double the spotwelds in the car, weld subframe connectors in place. Don´t use slicks, or you rip the car into pieces without bigger modifica |
#5
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Fabricating the engine mounts will be your least concern. Actually I have this ahead with my '66 as soon as I get the block. You also have to remove the heater motor; no big deal, and relocate the brake master cylinder; ready parts available for that too. There are headers available for '67 &up A-body but they have big primaries and a very tight fit. Propably need some dimpling. manual steering is a must, and so are heavier than stock torsion bars. I would fabricate the motor mounts with the engine in with the headers installed. Of course you need a bigger radiator and disc front brakes are a cheap life insurance. I built a '73 4 D 440 Valiant in '92 and it sure has been fun. Currently it has a '451' in it and runs 10's with ease still looking pretty much stock outside.
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#6
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A motor plate would help keep it there. It will also transmit all vibrations to the car.
As far as arc welding go's. I'm not a welder. I was qualified by my job for so heavy stuff, but, have not had they need to weld since school. Hope they don't need me. :d |
#7
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It will cause some vibration unless you install it with insulators. I used to have an engine plate that was on bisquit insulators screwed on the framerails; no vibration.
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#8
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Good luck
im putting a 64 max wedge in my 75 Duster I bought a big block K member but the mounts were oss 1/2 inch so yesterday I ordered the Shumocker mounts and headders. Talk to them they will tell you if it will work or not you can loop your power steering hoses at the box and get rid of the power steering pump,you will have manual steering then its a challenge to do these conversions but the fun on the street is worth it got the frame ties heaver torsion bars 727 trans drive shaft etc Its not cheap to do pulled out a 318 that runs 100 in 14 sec its for sale if anyones interested ------------------ |
#9
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The car was kind of a wierd optioned car. it has 10 inch brakes with front discs,and an 8 3/4 rearend with unknown gears. isn't that wierd? it's like it was set up for a V8 but they put a six in it instead.yes it does have biscut mounts.
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#10
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68, I tried to email this but I couldnt get your addy. It's a letter I recieved a while back with a contact and some good info. Hope its useful to ya.
Newcomb's Hemispherical Products - Phil Newcomb (909) 929-9767 1. 7 quart Milodon oil pan and pick up 2. Phil will need to notch the k-member on the driver's side slightly even with this pan 3. Order Hooker Competition headers with "street collector" (ie street hook up) 4. Don't go any larger than 0.92 torsion bars (0.98 and 1.0 road racing bars are too much) 5. Hedman makes this header as well but he's not heard anything good about them 6. Go with billet flywheel and a blow proof is not needed 7. B & E body Street HEMI brackets will work 8. Don't need to cut the passenger shock tower (he has a customer who had no problems) 9. May not be able to remove head or valve cover in the car? 10. Original HEMI cars had 1/2" spacers between k-member and frame 11. Don't use spacers like orginal. It lowers the motor 1/2" 12. Motor will sit 1/2" higher aiding shock tower clearnance 13. Not sure M1 will clear hood? Cross Ram will not. May need to run a hood scoop? 14. Stock manifold probably won't work as the k-member is 1/2" narrower and motor sits 1.5" forward http://home.att.net/~jlarsen440-6/hemiprod.html#Contact Race Hemi K-Frames * 64 - 65 B-Body & 68 A-Body * $425.00 Hemi Engine Mount Brackets Street Hemi Engine Mount Brackets * Brackets that bolt to the side of engine block for mounting insulators * Available for B or E-body * Available in pairs or separately * Insulators available * Pair -- $125.00 * Left Side -- $75.00 ------------------ Bill Reilly www.bigblockdart.com |
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