upgrade's for my GranFury 360

[chrisj0123]

Well now I've got the prices and I actually know what I am going to do!

I have a 1977 granfury with a 360 and I do belive a 927 tranny!
everything else stock. 2bbl carb holley, All stock.
Going to buy:
4barrel carb eddelborck
performer intake msd ignition system
performer plus cam and lifter
springs and pushrods new double roller timing chain and I think i'm going to go with flowtech headers but I don't know yet... any suggestions I'm concerned about the headman headers not fitting. I"m getting all this from a schucks store or rather the csk speed shop mag. going to run me about a 1000. IF you have any suggestions please by all means let me know. I don't want to get this done and find out I need to tear it down cause I have some old part that won't hold up to my new stuff... also getting a K&N filter .... I think thats it. oh and plug wires..lol Any suggestions would be much appreciated. thanks in advance!

[rumblefish360]

Suggestions? Drop the Edel. performer for another. It has 318 sized ports. Any other will do. M-1 Dual plane, Stealth, RPM.
Skip the Edel. cam and get ethier a Purple MoPar , Comp or better still, a Hughes cam. You can get the springs and liffters from all the cam companys listed.
Your tranny is ethier a 727 or a 904. Given the year, its a 904. But thats not in stone. Have it check out to be sure. Make sure its up to par. What about your rear end and springs?

[chrisj0123]

SO you don't think I should go with the performer... what about the performer Rpm? Does it have 318 ports as well? I was just going edel cause its a little cheaper and I was going with the 600 cfm carb.. edel and it was suggested that I should go all edel not mis and match!

Your opinon much apprecated on this matter!

How far should I go for the duration on the cam!? I was going to go with the 270 duration.. This is going to be a street driven machine and I don't want it to stall out at the stop light's.

As for the tranny I have been told it should be the 727 thats what I meant to type in originally oops...typo!

How do I check on that.... and about the rear end My friend told me there is a place on the back of my rear end that I can turn will increase my traction... he tells me as it sits my rear end is adjusted to keep the wheels from slipping .... have you ever heard of this?

How do I check what rear end and spring setup I have.... meaning what do I look for to Identify these?

And again why shouldn't I go with edel.... I just want to make sure I am on the right track before I start buying, and one last thing where can I find out what kind of headers Will fit under my hood without to much fabrication...????

CHRIS

[rumblefish360]

Not the Performer but Any other will do. M-1 Dual plane, Stealth, RPM. These have the 360 sized ports or I would not have mentioned them. The 600 cfm is OK to use for daily driveing and a little stop light action.
The 270 duration is fine for daily driver. This cam has a RPM range that it works best in. It may differ from maker to maker. The cam makers also give it a "cruise range RPM" Your gears and tires should operate in this range at the speed in which you wish to drive in.
So, at 60mph, what rpm to you want to be runniing at?
I recomended the MoPar units as well as the new Comp and cams from Hughes. There cams are for use with the big MoPar lifters. Which means the rate of lift can be greater than the smaller Chevy liffter that other cam makers grind there cams for.

I have NO idea what your freind is talking about. By the way, your car should not sit or squat. If your freind told you that, he's wrong. Thats for chevy's. (i bet your friend is a chevy guy. )
Your Mopar will rise in the rear. Thats the way it's designed. Thats the way it works. Let it do what it's suposed to do.
You'll need to know if the rear is stong enuff for the intended power output. Since you don't know, just tell me how many bolts are on the rear cover. It is probably an 8 1/4. If you want to upgrade this unit, MoPar and (I think) Auburn have units. As well as gear ratio's to suite.
If the car has seen abuseive miles or treatment, check out the gears. A good shop will do this.
Rear springs should not sag. If the rear hops when you hit the gas hard, there weak. You can clamp the front half if this happens. If that fails, new springs are in order.
Sorry, I can't help with headers.

[rumblefish360]

Oh, mismatching parts is not so much as using diferent name brands but not getting the combo right.
EX; Big 2 inch headers with an 850 holley and a monster cam coupled with stock heads with small valves, dead ass low compression and hwy gears......Bad combo!

[chrisj0123]

My friend didn't say anything about the car sitting and squating he said the adjustment was on the actual rear end gear box I think top left hand side from the rear. He said it was set from the factory to have some kind of traction control. and that by tighting the control knob on the rear end It would allow the tires to burn out sooner... I know I'm not being clear on this am I... how do I rephrase it! lets see with nut adjusted as it is it is hard to make the tires spin.. shortof tunes down the power until car is moving so that the tires won't squel and you have more control... makes it difficult to leave big black marks and such. I"ll look tommorow in the daylight if it's not raining .... here in washington that seems to be a rarety...

Got to love my spelling

[rumblefish360]

Thats OK. My spelling sucks as well. Someting around 6th grade level. LOL And to think I used to win spelling bee's

On the rear. No such thing. It's like the 3/8 bolt strecher or a gallon of prop wash.