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#1
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MY new motor has a clacking noise that sounds like the valve train. I put in a mild Compcam and lifters w/springs. I remember seeing posts in the past about defective lifters. Anyone have any input? I have tried 2 different sets of rocker arms and pushrod sets. Same noise.
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#2
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HAVE YOU MADE SURE THAT YOU ARE GETING OIL TO THE HEADS. SOMETIMES THE OIL HOLE GETS A PIECE OF S##T IN IT AND SLOWS OIL TO THE HEADS. ALSO ARE YOU SURE THAT THE OIL HOLES IN THE ROCKER SHAFTS ARE POINTED IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? I HAVE NOT HEARD OF COMP HAVING PROBLEMS WITH LIFTERS BUT I HAVE HEARD OF HUGHS HAVING THAT PROBLEM. IS IT A SOLID OR HYD CAM? DID YOU SET THE LASH CORRECTLY? ARE YOU USING ADJUSTABLE VALVETRAIN?
[This message has been edited by JANDJ (edited January 28, 2001).] |
#3
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It is hydraulic. We used an old distributor shaft to turn the pump before the install. It is non adjustable. We had oil coing out everywhere. Should have seen it last night running with the covers off it looked like the "Waltzing Waters".
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#4
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How long did you run the motor for?...did you break it in for a half an hour at 1500 rpm or higher?..still make the noise after?...I know when the lifters are empty, it takes quite a while to get them filled up, so they make a racket for at least 15 minutes...then they will quiet up when they get filled up. Do NOT pre fill them...this is a no no...if the thing is broken in, and still makes this horroble racket, check valvetrain geometry...are you using stock rockers of aftermarket adjustable?...if its adustable rockers, you probably need to have custom length pushrods made...Check your Geometry this way....adjust valve lash to zero + a half turn. turn the motor over till youre at 1/2 lift on the #1 intake lobe....the lifter, pushrod and adjusting bolt on the rocker should be in a perfectly straight line...if not, you may need custon length pushrods...i would not use shims under the rocker shafts...
I think theres only 2 companies in the whole world that make lifters...for everybody, and everything...so i dont know what the other guy was talking about with Hughes lifters...I use the Race lifters they sell, with the heavy C clip...that way you can adjust them to zero lash, the will act like fast bleed lifters. |
#5
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Why would prefilling them be bad? I did soak them in a bucket of oil before I installed them. This motor has about 50 miles on it and it still makes the noise. I ran it for 30 minutes at a fast idle. Changed the oil and filter. It only sounds like one doing it. Not a whole bunch. How can I check them? I am using the stock valve train. The cam is a r/v cam nothing exotic.
[This message has been edited by Rug_Trucker (edited January 28, 2001).] [This message has been edited by Rug_Trucker (edited January 28, 2001).] |
#6
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Pre filling lifters makes them like a solid lifter for a while, till they get settled in....it can keep the valve off of the seats for the full 360 degrees of crank rotation..that means hard to start..with bigger lift cams, can cause piston to valve problems upon startup...sounds like to me its possible you might not have lifter problems at all.....maybe a exhaust leak..sometimes that can sound metallic, and alot like a valve/lifter problem
is the car running ok power wise?..seem weak?... |
#7
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Power wise it is stronger than the last engine. It is running great vacuum at idle 21.5 to 22.5. I have been adjusting the metering rods on the TQ. The timing is @8* and it has a spark knock pulling up hills in high gear. It has flattop pistons. I am not sure but maybe I need to run it richer. This is a 3/4 ton van. Offy dual port intake Jacobs ignition. Rebuilt TQ. It still doesn't have the Umpf that it should it runs out of go. It maybe the intake.
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#8
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I had this on a 69 340 motor with a MP 284 .484" cam and standard hydralic valve train.
I replaced the rocker arms with the new HD ones and also added Manley lash caps $25 This took care of the clicking sound. Check it by removing a valve cover and lifting up and pushing down on the rocker arm. |
#9
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You said it only sounded like one...and how to check it. You can quickly narrow your search by placing a timing light on each cylinder and comparing the flash to the sound. Turning the idle down slower will help a lot. Once you find out which cylinder and corresponding valvetrain it is you can start checking for defective or worn parts without having to replace entire sets of anything. Good luck.
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