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#1
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A-body eng setback
hi guys ! anyone have the eng setback in there a-body ??
what did u guys use for a p/s pump setup ?? anyone know of a bracket setup to use a race style pump on a s/b ? also anyone have any 990 t-bars for sale ? thanks and MERRY CHRISTMAS DAVID |
#2
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setback
Dave,
If you put an "E" body K frame in, that should set the motor back a lot. (assuming you have to run an OEM clip) Tthe front horns need to be spread out to line up the holes but it isn't much (1inch or so). This way you would not have to worry about funky brackets and stuff. Granted this will require some creativity with the crossmember but hey....it wouldn't be fun if it were easy! Just bought a wrecked street stock for parts and it came with a pile of T-bars. some of them are very hefty!I will look this weekend and let you know if any are .990 That seems like a very heavy bar? We will run a well banked 5/8mile asphalt track and won't go that high? Mind if I ask you what you are running and where? |
#3
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hey thanks for the reply RACEMKT !!
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#4
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hey thanks for the reply RACEMKT !! we,ve already set the eng back in the a-body frame and moved the fire wall so were gonna have to make the p/s work !!
as for where i race south ala. we have been using th e1.040 bars and have been as big as the 1.140 with this car !! been chasing a push !! but went down to the 1.040 with the old car and worked decent !! thats all i have except st bars ! i race a 4/10 mile and a 1/2 mile pavement !! hoping this new car will improve when we get it finished !! thanks agaion david |
#5
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t-bars
Checked everthing I had last night, sorry to report I have nothing that small. Don't know what i was thinking, .990 is smaller, not bigger! Season hasn't started yet but I've already got brain fade!
If I come across a set, I will let you know. |
#6
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I'd looked real hard at doing this with the Dart Sport I built last year but the owner chickened out; move the k-member and upper control arm mount/shock tower forward. My plan was to take the wheelbase to 111" by moving everything forward 3.5" and then moving the engine back a like amount. The firewall would only need some minor sledgehammer surgery, and that would put #1 plug just about in line with the lower ball joint. The t-bar anchor sockets would need to be moved back about about 2" and use B-body t-bars.
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#7
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By moving the front wheels out it would also increase rear % too.
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#8
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Welding in a B or E clip is really not that hard to do and allows a lot of leeway! When done it's hardly noticeable and has better geomety than the A. A little "rubbing" won't change your setup either.
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