Which cam to use? - Moparchat

derbyman78x · #1 12-22-2001, 11:10 AM

I'm thinking about changing my cam in my 440 it's in a 66 coronet440. Here is what I have.
440 out of a 78 dodge cop car bored 40 over,TRW flat tops,edelbrock 750 cfm carb,edelbrock TM7 intake,stock rods,413 steel crank,electronic ignition with crome box,cam 282/292 dir442/465lift,headers 1 3/4 with 3" collectors,TF727 with shift kit(has stock high stall torque converter but will have a TCI street fighter)4.56 rearend gears,9X28X15 slicks,the car weights 3630 pounds.

I run 9.20 in the 1/8 mile I want to run in the 8's been thinking about purple shaft 284dur/484lift or
292dur/509lift

any help?

jelsr · #2 12-22-2001, 01:14 PM

Personally I would use the 284/484. It still has good low end power and would get along with your small dia. primaries better than a larger cam. I think the TM7 is about the same as a Torker which is in the low 2K to 6K. Should work well together. When in doubt it is usually wiser to go with the smaller cam.

B1 · #3 12-22-2001, 02:35 PM

dont use old mopar technology. thats like using a steak to help a bruise instead of a cold compress!! comp cams has an extreme energy grind that would work perfect. its the 284 grind. we have used this in many 440s and it WORKS! it will put you in the 8s no sweat. Brian

rumblefish360 · #4 12-22-2001, 03:12 PM

Steaks are used (Or where used) in the old days because there were in the frezzer. Cold compres's are new tech that replaced the old tech mostly due to germs in the steak.
I had once heard (Wives tale?) that there was something in steak that helped the brusie. Nothing wrong with a cold raw steak. (Yes,

I have had to use them before)
Still, a newer cam from comp, hughes/ultradyne would be better.
Theres nothing wrong with the old MoPar grinds. Theres just better power in the new units. Not that the old units are bad.

B1 · #5 12-22-2001, 04:07 PM

ofcourse theres not anything wrong with the mp grinds. but if your going to spend money on something to help make power, then why not get the most power for your money. you wouldnt put 1000.00 into a set of 906 heads for alot of power when you can buy edelbrock heads for 1300.00?? you lose 40 lbs and gain about 50-60 hp with them for 300 dollars!!!! that is money well spent. Brian

rumblefish360 · #6 12-22-2001, 11:27 PM

Yes yes, very true. I did the same thing. Edel heads instead of ported "J's." For the 1300 dollor figure, theres no arguement. Sometimes it's a matter of choice.
Glad to see you have used the comp cam to run in the 8's. Helps me out a bit to. Allways good to know.

B1 · #7 12-23-2001, 01:34 AM

glad to help out. also derbyman, i would when you get the chance and cash, change the headers to 1 7/8 or 2". and the intake is not the best choice. you could pick up more et with an edelbrock rpm intake and a 1 inch spacer. the intake would be a cheaper alternative to the headers, but the headers will add about 20 hp to the engine over the small tubes. Brian

383-man · #8 12-23-2001, 09:26 AM

Yes the modern grinds are great but I got my MP .484 cam for free from my brother and I love it!! Its a mild 72 383 Dart and you can see it at www.bigblockdart.com and its a street car and has run 12.41 at 110 and has a nice little lope in the idle and great low end power but I have it on a 104 centerline!! Ron

PRO · #9 12-23-2001, 01:33 PM

Whats your actual compression? its critical to know so that you can pick the correct duration of the new cam,regardless take that SIS (PAW) piece of "fake" cam out,dont even give it away,throw it away,I had a friend that ran it also,it actually slowed the car down from the stock RR cam.Have you thought of trying one the new Comp muscle grinds?there a revised mp cam basically,a little more exhaust duration,their advanced 4*,and had a slightly different lobe separation but are very similar to the old mp's.I f you have lower than 9.5:1 comp stay around 240* max,if your closer to 10.5 go around 248* max,these #s are little high but you have 4.56s,stall conv and only 29" tall tires,hope that helps......PRO.....

derbyman78x · #10 12-24-2001, 04:14 PM

Ha B1 will I have to put valve reliefs with that cam(the 284 graid) the lift is 507-510 & my mopar guy here says I would have to for the MP 292 DUR-509LIFT cam?

jelsr · #11 12-24-2001, 04:48 PM

I've read that anything over 290 dur or .500 lift should be checked for clearance. If you are going over .500 it wouldn't hurt to check guide to retainer clearance either. I like the old MP grinds, not the latest greatest but a good bang for the buck.

ohioDemon · #12 12-25-2001, 12:53 AM

yeah those comp xe cams rock i have the 284 grind in a 360 and i pull 8.15 in the 1/8 mile on scrawny street tires

B1 · #13 12-28-2001, 12:08 AM

its been my experience that with the trw six-pack piston, you can use a cam with up to 250 degrees of duration if the lobe center is around the 110 mark and the heads and block have not been milled. whatever combo you run, i recommend ALWAYS checking valve to piston clearance. that way you know what you start with, and how much you have to work with. if you are using the low compression trw, then you may have to. the 284 cam really isnt that big, but it all depends on the heads, block, and even if you have stock or oversize valves. Brian

wedge440 · #14 12-28-2001, 12:34 AM

derbyman,
I would use the mopar 484 lift cam, they may be old but they work and they work good...The newer grinds are ok but it seems that there using more lift with less dir....To me, more lift means more stress on the valve train, why use more lift when you can do the same thing with less?...I would also trade the TM7 intake for the performer RPM intake. Should give you more torque at the bottom end...4.56 gears seem alittle steep to me,I think 4.10`s would work better....
Just my $0.02
Joe