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#1
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Hi all, i was wondering what valvecovers all the regulars on here use, sucsessfully, on their big block cars....i always have the worst luck with them....cant stand leaks, and they always seem to, hehe....let me know what works best.....
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#2
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I use Fel-Pro. The ones I use are the rubber with the steel core.
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#3
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Even though they are a little harder to find, I prefer rubberized cork or cork gaskets over rubber gaskets. They seem to require less torque to get a good seal (less flange warpage) and they can be reused a few times without any problem.
------------------ my 2ยข worth... amopargu |
#4
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Yep! rubber/cork combo works good. Glue them to the valve cover and they'll last a long time.
------------------ My Own Private Adrenaline Rush |
#5
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I favor the Fel-Pro cork. If you are looking to eliminate/reduce leaks, trash the stock stamped valve covers & get a set of cast aluminum valve covers.
Many leaks in the valve cover area are due to the stamped steel valve covers loosing their shape from over torquing. Cast aluminum valve covers will seal with any of the recommended gaskets. |
#6
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Heres the scoop for any sealing surface,it must be clean,you must use the RIGHT sealant,Silicone(RTV)is NOT the right sealant!!!it doesnt stand up to heat and oil for long,the right sealant is...THE RIGHT STUFF yep thats what its called because thats what it is!!you can find it at NAPA.AUTOZONE etc,its not cheap but doing something right rarely is.I use fel pro rubber gaskets and seal them to the v/c mainly beecause I have adjustable valvetrain....PRO...
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#7
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I use a stack of 2 of the Felpro rubber gaskets that are both glued into the cover, with no other sealer. It gives me a little better intake clearance, has never leaked in 8 years, and can be taken on and off and reused.
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#8
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Rubberized cork. I buy NAPA brand and always have good luck with them. The covers do need to be straight and like already mentioned the surfaces do need to be clean. If you're using the stock covers and they are bent from years of use and abuse they can be straightened fairly easy with a little thought and metal working. I also use a little sealant on both sides of the gasket.
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#9
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If you need to take them off frequently here is a trick I learned from setting VW valves every 2000 miles. Gorilla snot to the valve cover and wheel bearing grease to the head. Keeps them sealing. Of course the cork ones. If the bolts keep loosening up put a dab of RTV onthem going in. I used to run rubber on my 383 and only the passenger side would loosen.
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#10
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Have any of you guys had trouble with the black aluminum mopar performance valve covers. I have a set and they never seal. Comparing them to the stock steel ones, the alluminum ones seem too wide. They look nice though.
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#11
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Every body ******* about them leaking. Give me steel.
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#12
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Rug_Trucker, I can't say I agree with you on this. I have 2 sets of the MP aluminum on 2 different cars & not so much as a drop from them. Same with my Mopar buddies.
I've even had the aluminum M/T versions on 2 other cars & never a drop. I'll sell you my stamped steel valve covers...cheap! How many set you want? The gromets will weep, I'll give you that. And your use of the grease works good too. I use that trick on my double pumper bowl gaskets. Makes changing jets easier. |
#13
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On my M/T's I RTV'd one cork to the cover, and one to the block. I used 1/4x20 threaded rod as "studs" and used nuts or long finger fasteners to cinch em down. I think the fat rail and ridge on the sealing surface hits alot of aftermarket manifolds, causing the cover to not seal properly. It interfered on my LD-340 and my STR-12 with one gasket. I dremeled the rail, doubled the gasket and no more leaks.
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#14
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Well, i got my aluminum Direct Connection Valvecovers this week(thanks GTX) and wanted to make sure they worked well...i got alot of good replys here, and i appreciate it. I went to Discount auto and got a set of ROL HY-PER-BLUE gaskest..suppose to not leak, yatta,yatta,yatta....well see....just a slight seep so far, due to the fact im babying the weak valvecovers. Looks cool though. Ill let everyone know how they work....
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#15
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I normally use the rubberized cork, I've been waiting for someone to come out with the silicone/wire ones similar to new 318's (which fit all A motors BTW). The trick I learned is to use 1 1/2"-2" long allen head studs blue loctited in the heads and fasten down the covers with serrated nuts(that have an integral flat washer surface); even on steel valve covers the load is spread more evenly and they seal up tight even after repeated use.
Wize 1 |
#16
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Good old Mopar sells really good ones. They spec for late 80's 318/360 engines. They are grey silicone with a sreel insert. About $30 a pair but mine have been on for 5 years and don't leak yet. Put a set on my M/T valve covers for my 340 and I doubt they'll leak either. Hope this helps. I can get the PN from my dealer if you can't.
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