Heating Problems?

[VetteKilla]

I have a 85 Dodge Fifth Avenue, 318. I just replaced the water pump and all the hoses including the upper and lower rad hoses and pressure tested the entire system and passed with flying colors. I live in Canada where it's freezing cold and I want heat which I get but it takes forever and I notice my tempature gauge is not at normal but 1/3 of the way there even after hours of driving. I have installed a new thermostat rated at 198 degrees farenheight to no avail. I checked the oil dipstick and there is no signs of leaking so the head gaskets are fine. My upper rad hose is pressurizing and have also repaced the rad cap with a 16 lbs rated cap. So do I have a blockage or what? I was wonderong if Chrysler has some sort of special thermostat? I have completely blocked of the rad with cardboard in a vain attemp to get the car to operating tempature. Any ideas and suggestions would be greatly appreciated and acknowledged, thank you. It was -34 the other day HEEEELLLPPP!!!! The problem is that the engine runs way too cool and doesn't heat up to normal operating tempature the heater core is fine and will throw some good heat on a warm day but once it gets real cold it doesn't work so good because the engine doesn't heat up.

[hemivaliant]

Mr. Freeze,

Sounds like you've checked all the obvious things. The carboard infront of the radiator is a good idea. Here's a couple of things you can check that might point to your problem.

If the inside temp. is to cold after the car warms up check these. Feel the inlet/outlet hoses going to your heater core once your car has reached operating temp. Hot water should be going in with somewhat cooler water coming out. Check them by just feeling them with your hand. There's a possibility your heater core could be plugged up. One other thing, the heat control valve could be bad. Some mopars have them in the engine compartment while some of them are under the dash. They are either controlled via a vacuum signal or a cable. Sorry I'm not real sure how your's is controlled.

Without having a good temp. gauge I wouldn't look at your gauge as fact. Your car might be reaching operating temp. but the air outside is just too darn cold for you the feel it coming out of your heater.

Best of luck and try to stay warm. I know I will, it was 65f here yesterday.


HV

[Ausydad]

I'll agree about checking the heater hoses. Make sure the hot water is getting into the heater core first, then feel the heater controls for tension. Possibly cable has disconnected to move the directional doors in the ducts. 3rd, get a good working gauge. It's probably getting to the right temp like my wifes Dart, but gauge says 120. Change out the water temp switch (Borg-Warner #wt127 or Wells #tu22), that should get your gauge where it belongs. Good Luck!

[VetteKilla]

I can run the engine all day and still put my hand on the valve covers and leave them there and it never gets hot. I've never had a car run this cold before. I will say again the heater core is fine i can get heat on a -10 day but -20 forget it. The engine is running to cool thats the problem. Should I do a compression test to see if the heads are o.k.?

[jelsr]

I wouldn't concern myself with the mechanical end of things, you're problem is in the cooling system. Internal combustion engines produce heat and the cooling system gets rid of the excess. 190+ stat should make the engine and heater core operate in that range simply because the coolant cannot get out of the engine/heater system where the heat is being generated untill the temp reaches the preset limit of the stat and is allowed to pass through the radiator. Most likely it's in the heater system and not allowing enough coolant to flow through. If the core is partially restricted, air or coolant, it will not function properly in extreme weather. Ice, for instance, can hold the outside air door open which will negate any heat being generated. Check the operating temp with a live mech guage or a glass tube thermometer in the rad neck after the stat is open. The temp should be just slightly lower then the opening rating of the stat (vert rad). If too low the stat is bad or the coolant is bypassing the stat and going through the rad. Otherwise it's a circulation problem in the heater/hoses/valve.